Manarius

I don't quite know how close the SVX starters and Legacy starters are, but the SVX does have the same general problem which is solved by the installation of a relay. You can see the writeup for it here: http://www.svx-iw.com/svxiw/article/?article=196

1 reg filter / yr @ 10 or 1 k&n filter for 5 years = $50 either way. I'll stick with the regular filter. Unless you live in a dust bowl, replacing the filter every few months is quite overzealous.

You can't really weld rust and I don't know if they'd have pieces of patch metal lying around.

You could try one of those mesh/putty repairs. However, you would need to grind around that area pretty well so that the putty had some place to stick to. Something like this perhaps: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/accessories/accProductDetails.jsp?itemIdentifier=710675_0_0_&skuDescription=VersaChem+/+6.5oz.mufflerweld&brandName=VersaChem&displayName=6.5oz.mufflerweld&skuDisplayName=VersaChem&categoryNValue=10099999&navValue=100436&categoryDisplayName=6.5oz.mufflerweld&parentId=00-10&itemId=436-10&store=1883&productId=710675 They don't last that long though.

Nope, in 1994, the Legacy came in special versions. http://www.cars101.com/subaru_legacy_archive.html#1994 legacy

I had a 1991 Legacy at your age, a few more miles though (155k at that point). I think the best upgrade for that car is WRX rims. They fit just right and are larger than stock (16 vs 14). The rims you mentioned are 15's that come on the Turbo Legacy or mid-90's Outbacks. (Those are also 1991 Legacy SS's-turbos, they have about 160hp) Quite frankly, without a turbo, the only thing you can do to make the car sound good is go with a straight pipe or just some resonators with no muffler. I don't know the laws in your state but if you don't have emissions (I know Indiana does not have inspections) you could get away with making decent noise. Driving/Fog Lights are a good idea too. The stock headlamps are terrible (even when cleaned), so having some aux lights helps.

It is a wagon riding on non-stock wheels and tires. Perhaps some body stiffening would help; strut bars on the front a rear? Wagons notoriously need to be stiffened in the rear.

Hmmph, now only if SVX replacement alternators were only $67 ($197 + shipping from 1st Subaru Parts )

I'd wonder if it wasn't piston slap as opposed to knocking.

Josh, that page looks exactly the same as the page in the FSM for the SVX. I think that's pretty cool.

Could be old fluid too. Unless they're abused, the 4EAT isn't that bad of a transmission. My SVX 4EAT has 190k and its only issue is with the torque converter locking and unlocking.

By low gears, he means 1-2-3? That's standard operating procedure. The transmission won't shift into 4th until the internal temp of the transmission is greater than 50F.

It would probably just be easier to swap in a lower mileage transmission than to try to take apart a 215k auto in order to replace the valve body. Perfect time to do a 5sp swap.

If you put the auto selector at the "1" and put the manual button on, you're guaranteed to get 50-50 split anyway because this what the TCU is designed to do. You'll also get 50-50 split in reverse as well, regardless of condition or manual button.

Assuming it's like the SVX radiator then no. You need to either replace the whole radiator or try to patch the crack with some sort of heavy duty sealer.

It switches the duty cycle of the solenoid c in the transmission to 100% (or 0%, I forget which) in order to force a 50-50 torque split between the front and rear wheels.

That last page is straight out of the Factory Service Manual for the SVX.

Here's the one from the SVX website. It should be similar to the Legacy one. http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=54335

I can confirm that unplugging the resistor is probably not a good idea on a marginal transmission.

This sounds to me like a dying Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF). MAF's cause stalling and all sorts of weird behavior. You can try cleaning yours with some MAF cleaner. I used 90%+ rubbing alcohol and a q-tip and it seemed to work okay. Unfortunately, if that doesn't work, you'll be forced to replace it. The sensors are not overly expensive as long as you pull them from junkyard cars.

No more engine resistance? The transmission, when braking, engages 3rd gear in order to lessen the stress on the brakes (at least, with Auto cars). Maybe this allows the ABS to actually work better since the engine brake isn't involved.

It's too bad you're so far away from me. I have a spare lying around here just for testing purposes.

When my MAF failed, the car wouldn't start or run.

I'd check the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Try to replace the one you have with one you know that works and see if the car continues to act poorly.

My stock SVX trans has nearly 190k on it. It's the original trans as well.