Manarius

I bet it's a coil pack. As for which one, you'll have to see if you can isolate it down to which coil pack is bust. Although, how long has it been since you've changed sparkplugs?

The SVX headlights are like daylight when they're clear. I have 55w lows and 100w fogs and I get flashed a lot for how bright my fogs are.

I think the answer is no on both accounts. I've never seen that generation with hoodscoop or projector lenses.

Just to reiterate, don't get the wrong idea about the SVX. It is a great car. Every SVX owner will tell you that. However, all of them will also say that it's not the best choice for a first car because of the things grossgary and nipper mentioned. You might just wanna pick that SVX up for yourself. I'd go test drive it...you'll fall in love.

I agree with Nipper. As much as I love my SVX, I don't know if I'd trust it to a 16 year old. If it gets wrecked, it's totaled for sure because of how expensive the parts are. I'd get an early Legacy (91-94) or Impreza. Just as reliable, just not as rare or costly to repair. Also, that model is LS-L not LS-i. LSi started with the 1994 MY.

At 3.00 difference per tank, I don't think it's that big an issue in the days of 60 dollar tanks of gas.

I'd just replace all 4. No sense in trying to get those exact tires and shave them down...

MAF sensor. That's EXACTLY what my 1991 Legacy did when the MAF was shot. My suggestion is that you swap it with a known good MAF so that you can test whether the MAF is broken.

As far as I can tell, yes they are. I tried to find the vacuum leak with a bottle of carb cleaner but no luck. I also just tested and reset the TPS to .48v (spec is .48-.52v) NGK Iridium IX. They come pre gapped.

Maybe someone here will have an idea. I've been having trouble with my SVX ever since I replaced the plugs back in the middle of May. The problem is this: The car stumbles fairly badly when cold. It also can't find idle and stumbles enough to shake the engine. It will also stumble randomly when warm. Seems strong if I am really hard on the gas. Here's what's been done: Tested to see if the stumble follows a coil - no response from the car Replaced fuel filter Replaced front knock sensor (ECU threw a code - sensor was broken) Greased all coil boots with dielectric grease Replaced MAF with known good MAF Cleaned throttle body with TB cleaner Cleaned IACV with TB cleaner (emptied about 1/4 of the can into the IACV, made lots of smoke) Ran Seafoam through gas Sealed minor exhaust leak Replaced two of the plugs because I *thought* they might look bad. Here's a video of a bit of my drive to work in the morning: You can see that the car definitely sounds and acts weird when it's cold. It's not really safe and it's really really annoying. If anyone here has any ideas, please post them. I'm willing to do almost anything to get rid of this.

I get about the average around town for the SVX AWD, but I get 28 on the highway, not 23 like the EPA thinks I should.

Model and Year of your car would help. If before 1995, have you pulled the codes from the ECU?

Check the ECU code(s) and get back to us. This will probably tell you what's wrong with the car. If you search this forum or http://bbs.legacycentral.org/index.php, you will find the method of how to pull codes from your car and what those codes mean.

Yes, that clarification is necessary. You do have to make sure that the clutch type of the donor transmission is the same as the transmission currently in your car. Otherwise, you will have to do modification.

Did you replace the temp sensor with the brown plug? If not, you replaced the wrong one.

Pretty much any Subaru 5MT after 1990 will fit your car as long as it has the correct final drive and clutch (push or pull type). If the 5MT doesn't match, you can change clutches and rear drives in order to match.

Currently at 178k on a stock 4EAT. SVX 4EAT no less.

You could use a WRX auto or 5MT. They could handle the torque and power...but you'd need the matching rear differential.

You gotta let the oil drain back into the pan. Sometimes, 10-15 minutes just isn't enough time to wait, especially if you run heavy weight oil.

Since you already have it apart, it only makes sense to put in new grease and seals. Otherwise, I would agree with it being a waste of time.

Back in my 1991 Legacy, there was a connector under the back passenger seat that would tend to melt and cause the fuel pump to not receive voltage. I don't know if the early Impreza suffers some this same problem, but it wouldn't hurt to check. I would also check the connection directly at the pump. The pump should be accessible from the trunk.

I would only fix the torn boot one. There's no point in fixing the other one if it isn't broken.

I disagree. I purchased a kit with a low side gauge and filled my system to the proper amount of coolant for a price way lower than what a professional would have charged. You just have to follow the instructions on the container - it's not that hard. The gauge tells you how much pressure you have in the system on the low side. Just add enough to get to the right PSI and you're good.

http://www.seenontvproducts.net/panoramic/index.html

A bad coolant temperature sensor is something that is really easy to diagnose without using a multimeter. If a warm car continues to turn over and not start (assuming everything else is working correctly), the coolant temperature sensor is the culprit.