tunered

just for the record i have a 91 leg sw awd 2.2 with 244,000 miles with no engine work done except,3 waterpumps,2 alternators,and timing belts,trans replaced at 200,000,new axles at 221,000,3sets of spark plugs and still on original wires.car came from state of washington and bought new in idaho,im 3rd owner with all the history,lucky? probally so.but still running fine.forgot to add this is a automatic,and been on a diet of valvoline all its life.

there is no way to even guess until you know the code number,they should have gave a number.

i dont think valve seals could let that much oil by in that amount of miles,my guess is the tension is out of the rings from a previos overheat.jmho

do you know if the gauge or sending unit worked before the change or is this a new ride to you?

wash the windows inside the car,if they seem like they have a little oil on them my bet is the heater core is leaking,stopleak will sometimes fix this.

just thinking outloud,shouldnt a cracked sleeve,liner,bore,what ever we decide to call it,show coolant in the oil? i cant believe its not showing up as a miss,if the head is cracked why wouldnt coolant seep back thru that crack?either in to the oil or into a cylnder.

if you dont park in one spot for a long time i dont think you do,really shouldnt need them at all,is there a bag with the tire tools and such in the car? maybe its in it.

did you notice any pistons being REAL clean,every one i ever saw the antifreeze did a real good job of cleaning things up?

forgot to add that the wheel lock adapter will most likley be in the car somewhere,maybe glove box or ontop of your spare cover.that defroster switch shoild have a light in it unless the bulb is burnt out,unless they have changed them they are not on a timer,which means it will stay on till you turn it off or the car is turned off.

if? the head gaskets sealed there has to be a leak elswhere,has to be a cracked head,a cracked sleeve.think about it,this is compression getting in the coolant.

10-4 on the timex,now pray for some snow so you can try out that 06.

good job nipper,i missed that one.

i can answer a few of these,the button marked P is your parking lights with ignition off,subarus wont let you leave your lights on because they go off with the ignition switch.the braking shudder is rotors that are warped,these can be turned and trued up if not too bad[may be cheaper to replace]the button on left side should be for rear defrost. hope this helps.

really theres only about 3 places it could come in,windshield,window seal,or the cowl area[in front of the windshield outside. might be full of leaves,pine needles etc.this area will fill up and run water thru the heater intake.

now being serious,if i am correct there is only two things that come to mind,one is the 2-3 selonoid,the other is the tran-clutch. would lean more toward the selonoid.

my first guess would be a air pocket in the cooling system,the gurgeling you heard was air and coolant going thru the heater core.

and you thought everybody here was dumb. ha ha

thats ok but,you will still have the pressure from a previous start and the cpu is still going to tell the injectors to squirt,you may flood some.

must be something in the air up there.

im taking bets its the axle,if really bad they kinda crunck and bind when the wheels are cranked all the way.

you just put a lot of positive camber in the left rear.

what about the strut?

http://www.ownersite.com/RecallMain.cfm?action=models&make=SUBARU

is this axle still under warranty? if it is i would drive it to autozone and say look here,if its not?

if the spring in the radiator cap was weak it would let the fluid go into the recovery tank,if it was to stiff it would blow out at the weakest point. there has to be some indication of where it came from,antifreeze is oily,and does not dissapear fast.you will have to locate this leak.i really dought if it is coming out of the rad cap,look for hoses that may be loose,weak,or possibly have a pin hole in it.