johnceggleston

huh? i do not understand your problem, please explain.

the TZ102ZA5AA is an auto trans with the 4.11 final drive ratio. it is a match for the 95 - 98 auto trans in the legacy L, LS, brighton (ej22 cars) NOT the outback, GT or the LSi (ej25 cars) what year, model, engine, trans, miles, color is your car?

this indicates that the coolant is not circulating. burping and/or filling is needed. when fill the cooling system, slow is critical, in my opinion. filling too fast can trap an air bubble, and these sometimes will not burp. this is also correct. my experience is some what limited, but i have never seen a bad suabru t-stat. all the talk of replacing ''bad t-stats'' falls into 2 categories, either it is NOT a subaru t-stat, or it was not the cause of the overheat. obviously if suabrus go 350k miles some of the t-stat are going to go bad, maybe, and lots are going to be replaced, just in case, but i have never had, and i don't remember reading about, a suabru factory t-stat being the cause of an over heating problem. i have seen housings cracked and gaskets damaged during timing belt jobs. and i have seen lots of off brand t-stats cause overheating. and lots of overheating due to improper filling / burping, and bad head gaskets, and one time i even found what look like a huge ''dust bunny'' on the engine side of the t-stat (stop leak?) but never a suabru t-stat causing a problem by itself. so if the engine i'm working has a subaru t-stat, i leave it alone. just my experience and my opinion.

i would read the code again, i can't find a record of a trouble code 18 for a 90 legacy. http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/

the diameter is about 25.68". that is a bout 1.48 inches larger than stock, or ~3/4 inch larger in radius, on top. stick your finger up in between the tire and the spring perch on the strut, front and rear. do you have an inch of space to spare? the stock GT tire size will fit since the lego L and the GT have the exact same suspension. the GT runs a 205/55/16, about a 24.9 inch diameter.

before you go to that trouble, try just using the windshield / floor position. i don't think the AC comes on then. but that's easy to check.

it needs burping. the coolant is not circulating. it could be the t-stat but i would burp it first.

rotate the crank shaft by hand. put a 22mm? socket on the crank pulley bolt and turn it 90 degrees, clock wise. remove flex plate bolt, rinse and repeat.

this comes up so often, i keep track of how much coolant i add to the system. it only holds 6 qts. so if you only added 5, you need to burp it. did you remove the vent plug when you filled it? if no, you need to burp and fill. at this point disconnecting the top hose may be your best bet. just a thought and there may a ton of good reasons not do this, but if air locked, a coat hanger down the top hose and cross over pipe may unlock it. but just filling the top hose and block may do it. if it is air locked, it may not burp. does it blow hot air from the heater when it is over heating? if no, it needs burping. if you cannot burp it, drain it back down to nothing and start over. catch the coolant in clean plastic tub, 2 gal., and strain if needed. this is how i do it: how to fill and burp your cooling system. - burpcoolingsystem - Subaru Legacy Forums if it is the rad, the start is to use a laser guided temp gun to test the rad. but if it does not blow hot air from the heater, it needs to be burped.

i doubt seriously that subaru made the FWD torque converter different from the AWD torque converter for the ej22. the trans are the same, except for the rear extension housing. so the answer is no, there is no difference. the torque converter on the ej25 is different. but let's cut to the chase here, look up the parts you have questions about , the AWD version and the FWD version, and compare the part numbers. Subaru parts catalog this parts site only goes back to 93, but there are virtually no differences in the drive train, primary engine and trans parts 90 - 93. and there is NO difference in the 90 FWD and the 93 FWD. one exception is the final drive ratio on the AWD transmissions, but that is not an issue unless you are swapping a complete trans. but now that i think about it, why are you asking about the TC and flex plate? they do not fail often. PS: there is a rumor that there is a JDM (Asia) TC and flex plate on a turbo engine that is different from the standard US version.

i doubt seriously that subaru made the FWD flex plate different from the AWD flex plate for the ej22. the trans are the same, except for the rear extension housing. so the answer is no, there is no difference.

first, not all locations have wires. my understanding it that each pin, wire, that is there is for a different ''system''. possible systems are TCU - trans codes SRS - air bag codes ABS - anti lock braking codes and all are intended to be grounded. so even if you ground the wrong one, you will not do any damage. you just get the wrong info. i have never heard that you need to ground out more than one pin for any one system, but my experience is limited. i have only checked trans codes. any time i have had another code it was due to improper service , corrected by proper service, (''locking'' the air bag connectors in the steering wheel) or dirt, rust, or crap, on the ABS sensor tip. a trouble light could be caused by a bad ''brain'' or wiring, but the active parts are much more likely. especially if you were just working on the brakes or steering wheel / clock spring/ air bag. if you disturb something and then you get a light, look where you were working.

you can swap in ANY auto trans 95 - 98 from an ej22 car. plus ANY auto trans 93 - 97 from an ej18 car. this means you can use any impreza, 93 - 97, or any NON-ej25 legacy 95 - 98. tons to choose from search www.car-part.com sort by zip code to see what is close. you will have to search each year and model separately.

i agree. but you will never go wrong using the stuff that came on your car and matches your trans.

the same is true of the auto trans as well. manually shift to 3 or 2 and it will help brake going down hill. same for going up hill, shif to 3 for more pep, and less chance of the trans ''hunting'' for a gear. but i understand you want a manual trans car, no problem . i'm not trying to change your mind. i'm just pointing out that engine braking is possible with an auto trans as well. i hope you find a good car.

yes, a manual trans rear diff from an 00 - 04 outback , GT, or forester will work. starting in 01, the rear diff on outbacks was a VLSD, or ''locking'' rear diff.

i have a wonky rear glass in my 98 outback. but mine is due to one of the white plastic rollers is busted. the rear most roller on the horizontal trak is busted. the center hub that snaps to the metal arm is there, but the roller, about the diameter of a quarter, that should surround it is missing. i think i may unplug the motor until i get a replacement.

did the parking pawl or spring come out while you had the tail section off? this could cause a no go situation , maybe. i think it is mechanically, lever activated, spring released. if the spring is not right it may not let go. with you wife in the drivers seat, maybe try rocking the car back and forth. or if the spring is wrong, maybe it is holding the pawl into the cog, not letting it release. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/attachments/gen-4-2010-present/22075d1326027688-turning-off-engine-before-shifting-park-parking-pawl.jpg

you can use any 5 speed manual trans from a 96 - 99 ej25 car. outbacks 96 - 99 are a perfect match forester 98 - 99 is also a match GT 96 - 98 a close second, the speedo will be off a little. they all have the 4.11 final drive ratio.

i have 40k miles on my ej22 (165k total) swapped into my 97 GT wagon auto. i resealed everything (except the rear main seal) including the oil pump. and all new timing components. i did however use really inexpensive seals and gaskets from ebay. (it was my first time, i have learned.) but a suabru oil sep plate with RTV. i have already replaced the valve cover gaskets. i have learned my lesson about cheap parts. and now my car has smoke coming out from under the hood at the end of a good drive. i sure hope it is not the oil sep plate on mine. time to crawl down under. i thought i got that right.

this is correct. starting in 01, the outback came standard with a VLSD rear diff. the parts yards refer to them as ''locking''. good source for used parts, sort by zip code to see what is close. Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

a flashing AT Temp light is abnormal.

just like your engine it depends on maintenance. if the AFT is change on a regular basis, 30k - 60k miles, it could well last the life of the car. both engine and trans will go 350k if maintained. repair cost vs. car valve is not a valid comparison. what you should look at is repair cost vs. car replacement cost. what kind of a car would you end up buying for $1200??? what repairs might it need? but your friend is right, before you sped $1200, look at the over all picture. but for $1200, if can drive the car a year, 12k miles, you will get your moneys worth. does the trans have any issues? any reason to think it is failing? do you think it will go a year or 12k miles more?

FYI: a dose of Trans-X does not last for ever. best info shows it lasts about a year. and then it must be re-added. and if you change the ATF, 3 drain and fills, and add a qt of Trans-X, you will have effectively removed all the old ATF and Trans-X. so do that each year and 2 things will be true, 1/ your ATF will always be fresh 2/ Trans-X will always be helping your trans problem.

SnatchedHatchi understand your concern, and i commend you for finding this thread, but i cannot comment on your problem until i know: year model engine trans miles color location