johnceggleston

after i swapped the 96 2.2L into my 97 gt, i decided to swap the instrument cluster as well, after all the engine and the cluster came from the same car. i was going to swap the whole cluster, but the 2 wire connector on the back in the area of the speedo didn't match so i swapped the speedo only. while driving home that day, i noticed that i was moving along with all the other traffic, but my speedo said i was going 80 mph in a 55 zone. no way. look at these pictures and tell me which one is from the 96 legacy and which from the 97 GT. the top speedo that goes to 120 mph is from the 97 2.5L gt, the bottom one that goes to 140 mph is from the 96 legacy 2.2L. crazy, right? apparently neither car will go that fast (at least i'll never go that fast in them unless i've driven off a very tall cliff.) so it's a moot point. i took it out on the hiway and clocked it against a measured half mile. 77 on speedo ~ 66 mph, 84 on speedo ~ 72 mph. when the needle is straight up on each speedo, they are reading about a 10 mph difference. conclusion, the needles move the exact sameamount relative to the actual speed, but the faceplates with the numbers are different. (so the speedos are the same, but the faceplates are differnt.) this is an amazingly ingenious cost saving move on subaru's part, the faceplates have to be dirt cheap compared to the cost of the speedos. ok, so i put in the TCU from the 96 leg 2.2L in to see if that would correct the speedo, nope, no change. by the way, the odometer seems to be dead on, the 297 mile trip to grandma's house did not change, at least not more than 1%. by the way, i didn't drive enough with the 96 speedo on the 97 tcu to determine if the odo was off or not.

double check the markings on the dip stick. i don't think it's supposed to be full to the top.

no, it's where the lower rad hose bolts yo the engine. what model & year, 60 chevy pickup?

since he has the 2.2L car, he can use the 2.2l power steering lines and avoid that issue.

you probably shouldn't have adjusted the tierod end. i did the same job but my car was on jack stands and the wheels were of wheni did it. i tried to find the center position of the rack and then attach the steering wheel. i missed it by about 120*. the wheels and the rack can't be off center, unless the alignment is off. the steering wheel can be off center. when i did it the second time, i still missed it by ~5*. 3rd time is the charm. mine also drives straight.

any 90s 5 speed will work but as mentioned, you need to match the diff ratio. in the early years the final drive ratio jumped around a bit. even in the same year, turbo may be different than NA. did you search "trannychart" ? i don't know if it goes back to 90 but it lists all the manuals with gear ratios, us and japan.

start dosing it now with pblaster, everyday. i had one off a fla car 125k miles that wouldn't budge, started to, break. (that's when i started removing the castle nut and leaving the pinch bolt alone.) i had one with 142K that started in vermont, but mostly nc, it came right out, go figure. (the torn outer boot had been lubing it for several months.)

if you don't need the ball joint, i would think a big crowbar would separate the arm from the knuckle, castle nut should be pretty easy to split, then just pry away. easier from under the car, but....

here's a link to the TZ102ZA3BA TRANS, used from dec 93 - june 95. http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_24/automatic_transmission/at_transmission_assembly/ if you click on the part number, and scroll down to usa usage and click it will show you what cars got the trans. 31000AC770 here's a link to the front diff in the same trans, dec 93 - june 95, item # 1 gear set. http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_24/train/differential_transmission/ again, click on the part number and then usage. i'm wrong so often and most of what i know i learned here, so i'm reluctant to make absolute statements. but it looks like late 94 and certainly 95 impreza had a 4.11 final drive. but it all depends on when they stopped producing 94MY and started producing 95MY imprezas.

the trans number you have is actually a TZ102ZA3BA. this is from an impreza, it doesn't have a 2 right after the second Z. it's probably from a 93 with a 2.2L engine, but i can't be sure. i didn't study imprezas, and although i'm pretty sure it has the 4.11 final drive and will work in your car, i'm not 100%. so if you are paying someone to swap the trans my advice is to not use it without confirmation. if you are doing the swap your self, it's your time and your risk. if you do some reasearch here you may be able to confirm the final drive: look under 'train' http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/ http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/

thanks

and what if it or the hose was clogged closed?

typically you will have bent valves. if you are doing the work your self, you can throw a belt on it and start it up. at that point, a compression test should tell you a lot. but realistically you should plan on having the valves / heads redone. if you are paying someone to do it, i wouldn't waste time and money trying just the belt.

the 95 leg 2.2 auto has a part number TZ102ZAAAA. you can use any leg 2.2 trans 95 -98. the critical position is t 'letter A' after the second Z. as long as it's a letter and not a '2' the final drive will match. so if the trans part number starts with TZ102Z... and then a letter, it will work and match you final drive ratio, 4.11. if the 7th position is a 2 it's from a 2.5L car and the final drive ratio is 4.44. ps: the last 2 positions only indicate the model of subaru, leg =AA, gt = CA, outback = BA. they do not indicate a mechanical difference in the trans.

i hear this is caused by napa re-man axles. :banana: sorry, i couldn't resist.

the brake shoes for hand brake on rear disc brakes are entirely different from the brake shoes for rear drums. they will likely fit any ej rear drum brake setup. sell them.

not common, but not unusual either. they say it's not an indicator of imminent engine failure. in other words, it's noisy, but not deadly. search slap and read up on it. this link taught me a lot: http://remanufactured-engines.com/page4.htm

there are 2 wires on a starter, a BIG one that's always hot and comes directly from the battery positive post and a small one that only has power when the key is turned to start. which one are you talking about? i looked at the legacy wiring diagram in my haynes manual and the power in the small wire, the solenoid, runs from: battery fusible link slow blow fues ignition switch auto trans inhibitor switch starter solenoid i don't know if the 12 volts at the soleniod means the relay will not help, but the relay, and fused wire and misc, connectors cost ~10.00$. the starter contacts cost about 12.00, i think, if you get them online. you can do the relay today, and see if it works. if not, order the contacts. do you still have the remote start device. i would think, if you put the key in the on/run position (car in park, brake on) and then activate the remote and it starts, then the relay should help. try it.

sorry, i'm 5 hours away.

it used to be unlimited for 30 days. i guess they are increasing their price and limiting their service to increase the profit. if you ask, post the vin, some one may run it for you.

it's probably the contacts, but in case it's not... after searching for over 30 minutes i found this regarding the relay (i'll name it starterrelay.fix). i have copied from the original post so i could change the font color, thanks skip for the original post, 2003. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=67805&postcount=1 There are currently several active posts on starter engagement problems. I thought this may be of interest. (Please note, this article only refers to 1989 and earlier Subarus, newer Loyales MTs may have a clutch interrupt switch, see ** below) First to dispel info given in reference to any relays involved. There are none, repeat no relays come on a factory equipped car. As will be seen it is a reliable fix to add one, but there is no relay used for starter engagement. The ignition switch, when in the start position, feeds battery voltage directly to the starter solenoid unless the vehicle has an automatic transmission. In this case, there is an inhibitor switch in the console which only allows the control voltage to reach the starter solenoid in the park or neutral position. Just a switch no relay. (Note: Some may argue the starter solenoid is a relay, in an operational sense they are correct, in semantics -- I will refer to it as the factory does.) **Newer Loyales may have a clutch pedal switch. This switch located up under the dash in the path of the pedal swing arm, is depressed and thus in a "closed" position, when the clutch pedal is in a fully depressed state. If when you turn the ignition switch to the start position the starter fails to engage - A) It is possible that a battery cable or it's connection is dirty, loose, or corroded - thus creating high resistance. Here is a quick test. Hold the ignition in the start position for five seconds. Open the hood and place your hand on all battery connections and cable ends to feel for a warm connection. IF the starter has engaged and there is some current passing through a connection with high resistance - heat will be generated. Green colored or other "odd looking" connections are always suspects. It is possible that the starter solenoid internal contacts have burned and are not making full contact. While holding the ignition switch in the start position a sharp "rap" on the solenoid may jar the contacts into a closed position allowing the starter to engage. If this is the case you can elect to repair/replace the contacts or replace the solenoid/starter. C) If the above tests prove unsatisfactory, it is likely the ignition switch itself has problems. The starter solenoid needs a fair amount of current to energize. This puts the contacts in the ignition switch under duress. To test this, connect a "jumper" wire from the positive battery terminal to the small spade connector located on the starter solenoid. One will have to remove the factory connector before "jumping" the solenoid. (Please make sure car is in neutral or Park before doing this test) If the jumper wire allows the starter to engage, there are several fixes that can be employed. 1) Replace ignition switch - labor and $$ intensive, beyond the scope of this article. 2) Install a "Never Fail" button/ switch. This button (momentary switch) is wired to feed the control voltage to the starter solenoid, thus bypassing the ignition switch. A "make shift" solution at best. It will work and is a simple matter of wiring. to wit: a) Get a 10 amp momentary switch from the source of your choosing. Find a suitable mounting point for said switch. Most dashes have several "blanks" to choose from, or mount it under the dash as a secret switch. you will need a "feed voltage source". You could i) probe your fuse panel for an ignition switched "hot fuse". ii) run a fused connection directly to the battery iii) place a tap on the main ignition feed connector under the steering col. Since you will be running this voltage to the starter and through the bulkhead (firewall) a fused source should be used. This "feeder" is connected to one side of the procured switch. c) The other side of the switch is wired to the small spade connector on the starter solenoid. The proper method is to splice solder the wire to the existing wire, but some may stuff it under the female connector and slide the spade back in place. Please use a grommet or other form of protection when passing the wire through the bulkhead. These connection methods will allow the use of the normal ignition switch start position but when it fails the "Never Fail" button is used. If you choose to simply put a female spade connector on this wire and plug it on to the starter solenoid, the "Never Fail" will be the only way to get the car to start. 3) The best method, in my admittedly feeble mind, is the addition of a "start relay". This relay supplements the ignition switch and requires no "Never Fail" folderol (like in a case where some one borrows the car and you forget to tell them about the "Never Fail") The relay is controlled by the ignition switch and it in turn feeds the current necessary for starter solenoid engagement. An "auxiliary lighting" relay is a good choice, but any 12Vdc 10 amp relay will suffice. I mount mine under the hood and in the general location of the starter. This allows use of the factory female connector and simplifies getting a fused battery feed voltage. Here is the wiring of said relay. Hope this helps and please email me any corrections for any details I may have missed. neper at westol.com

many of the national chain auto parts stores will read codes for free, autozone, advance. year? model? trans?

maybe. did it start with the remote switch?? try the remote switch with the key in the on / run position, gear selector in park then neutral.

i agree, the 2.2 phase 1 belt is probably the one. (1.8 and 2.2 are the same) http://opposedforces.com/parts/ i haven't taken the time to look but you can go to this website and look up part numbers for european market subarus and us market subarus. if the part numbers are the same bingo. all you have to do is find a car with the 2.0L turbo? did they sell those in europe.

i'm a little lost but ... the primary fail point in these starters is the starter contacts, they get old worn scorched? and new ones usually fix the problem. if what you said "I even attached a remote switch to my starter and I could get it to turn over that way" is accurate, i suggest adding a relay at the starter (generic relay from autozone will do, 20 amp?). you can search for the thread here, but basically you disconnect the small wire on the starter and connect it to a relay, and run a new wire from the relay to the starter. then you add a new "FUSED" power wire from the battery to the relay and a new ground from the relay to ground. once done, the ignition controls / powers / activates the new relay and the new relay sends power from rthe battery to the starter solenoid. (very short wire run with nothing else on the circuit.) again, most folks replace the contacts and that fixes it. but in my case the relay did it. they say the contacts are easy, but i have memories of springs and things flying out of electric motors and getting lost on the floor and the motor never running again, apparently that isn't a real concern here.