johnceggleston

ok, i'm a dummy, sort of. i have various socket sets , some sae some metric, none very expensive. the spark plug sockets in the older, sae sets were to big, but they also didn't fit the new spark plugs, i didn't even check that yesterday. the plug socket from my cheaper set does in fact fit both the plugs and the hole they are mounted in. i knew i'd done it before. on a side note, think i'm going to assemble a set of sockets that are actually used on subarus, and dump the rest (4 - 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 16, etc.) into a box that i keep in the shed. i have 3 metric socket sets, 1/4", 1/2", and then a 1/4" with a few 3/8" pieces. and yet i still only have one 14mm socket and i had to buy that one seperate. apparently 14mm is too big for 1/4" drive and it didn't come with my 1/2" set, go figure. oh yeah, if any one cares, you need a deep well 14 mm for the exhaust to head bolts, you can do it with a short socket, but it would be a lot easier with a deep , 6 point socket.

i'm in the process of swapping in a 96 ej22 into my 97 GT wagon A/T, 142k miles, bad head gaskets. and i have found one torn outer CV boot, one torn steering rack boot, both on the driver side. i have 2 known good front axles with bad boots, inner i think, and a good rack from the same car as the engine. my inclination is to put new boots on the spare axle (maybe both) and swap it and the spare rack into the 97GT. seems like the replacement boot kits are 25$, how much for a mwe axle delivered? i'm now servicing 3 subarus, 95 L w/190k, 97 obw w/125k +original headgaskets, and 97 GT w/142k, i probably should send one of my spare axles off and and have a mwe ready for a future failure.

all of the spark plug, deep well, sockets (most if not all from various cheap socket sets collected over the years,) are too fat to fit into the hole. any special bran needed? i remember doing my plugs before but i don't know what socket i used. i think it's a 17mm. thanks, john

maybe the oil pump o-ring is leaking? the crank wobble was the symptom before my crank pulley failure. mine was caused by improper torque on the bolt holding it on. even if the key way is slightly boogered, i would think the pulley would still spin true unless the bolt was loose. it's just what happened to me. hopefully not you.

you mean there WERE 80's ? on a side note: my dad had heart surgery and somewhere along the way he lost some of his memory. brain still worked, he just could'nt remember some stuff. when i re-introduced him to my current wife, he asked, what happen to ruth (my first wife). i told him it would have been better if he had forgotten the marriage instead of the divorce. now that would be some good medicine, take a pill and forget your first wife.

please coment on bleeding your brakes after changing the calipers.

i unscrewed the torx screw and removed the clamp piece that holds the ball. i found a broken piece of 'spring' metal designed to keep pressure on the ball. i threw that away and stuck in a piece of folded paper. it may take a couple of trys to get the right tension. it doesn't take much. or you can but a replacement mirror.

i just picked up a kit from advance auto. basically the same with 2 differences, no polishing tool and therefore no directions for using a drill, and the polishing compound and sealer come in foil pouches, one use. it was 19.99. seemed high for sand paper and stuff, but i had no idea hw to do it so that's worth somthing. they stress correct application of the sealer, 2 coats.

note: since this is a 95 outback, it's a 2.2L engine. how many miles, any other symptoms, what is the service history of the car, ever put stop leak in the radiator???? did you ever get the heat & AC to work? do the radiator coling fans come on?

if you are familiar with how the car drives and handles, you will be able to notice the difference with the fuse in. especially changing lanes on the hiway at speed. with the fues in it feels like a front wheel drive car, which it is. even if you don't drive the car that much, you should be able to tell a difference with the fuse in when you drive it. my vote is for low power steering fluid.

to the best of my knowledge, there was not a trans made by subaru in the 90's starting with TZ102Z1.... but then i have only studied legacy trans, not impreza or forester. stick with TZ102Z2.....

NO, the ones in red above will NOT fit your car unless you get the matching rear differential with it. the trans that will fit your car must have a 2 after the second Z, like this: TZ102Z2xxx. this '2' means it has the 4.44 final drive ratio like your 96 GT a/t. all 96 - 98 2.2L w/ a/t have a 4.11 final drive, you need the 4.44 final drive ratio.

changing this thing out is not hard, but if you haveno experience, you might consider buying the subaru part, online, and paying a local garage to put it in. it should onlt cost about 40 or 50$ to have it put in.

kirbykirb, your mail box is full, delete some.

IIRC, the 22mm is the same as 7/8 inch. this may be easier to find. i think i changed mine with out a 22mm, so i would have uesd my 7/8 - 3/4 open wrench .

elite has a used trans for 499$. ace and magic each have one , price unknown. the one at ace has only 100k miles. japanese has one for 650$ these are all '97 outback transmissions they will work in your 96 GT. any trans from 96 - 98, outback, legacy GT, or legacy LSi will work if it has the 2.5L engine and the trans part number starts with TZ102Z2........ install should cost around 500 - 600$. good luck. Magic Used Auto Parts USA-FL(Clearwater) Request_Quote 1-727-573-7751 Request_Insurance_Quote Ace Used Auto Parts USA-FL(Tampa) Request_Quote 1-813-626-2145 Request_Insurance_Quote Elite Used Auto Parts USA-FL(Tampa) Request_Quote 813-247-3334 / 888-606-3334 Request_Insurance_Quote Japanese & European Auto Parts USA-FL(Tampa) Request_Quote 1-813-663-9741 Request_Insurance_Quote

2 questions, which dealer did you deal with? (it sound like they know what they are talking about.) is the wheel bearing for the '05 the same for 95 - 99? or did they change the design of all leggy wheel bearings starting in 05 even though there are different ones.

my only concern would be the correct installation of the parking prawl. if both the one in the your car and the one from the junker are 'apart', it may be hard to figure out exactly how it is supposed to be set up. a couple of good pictures would be worth 2 or 3 sleepless nights . from my limited experience it is not hard at all to get everything lined up. there are no parts "flopping" around to not line up. you replace the parts, put on the gasket, and bolt it on. please correct me if i'm wrong.

this begs the question, would this process help with a dirty duty c and torque bind. usually the first fix is change the ATF. maybe it should be, add 1/2 can of seafoam, driveand then change ATF.

thanks, i hope i never have to do it!!

some of the early 99 auto trans are the same as the 97 - 98s. if it has the spin on external filter it is not compatable. if it doesn't have the filter , then it will work.

slightly off topic, i read a post recnetly that implied that you could swap a piston withpout cracking the main block case. is this true.? i thought if you went that deep you had to split the case. so with the pan and heads off you can remove the pistons and rods, just not the crank?? thanks, john

i don't know a lot about auto trans, but even if the valve body is different as you say, the duty b may be the same. especialliy if you are just swapping that part, which is way more work than i'd attempt. the duty c i swapped was a fairly simple electric device, i can't imagine they redesigned it just because they upgraded the trans, but maybe they did. the trick would be getting part numbers to compare.

is just the door damaged or is the frame damaged as well.? if just the door you can replace it.

96 outback, manual.. it should have the 2.2L engine. youjust got lucky if the timing belt jumped!! did you check the oil. ? as niper said, low oil level will cause it to make a lot of noise, and eventualy hurt the engine. and since yours is leaking...........