johnceggleston

one question is wheather they are both single or dual port exhaust. as long as they are the same it will fit. the other question is the o2 sensors, the 96 has 2 of them.

i know a shop who will do head gaskets for less than half, 40%, of your quote just south of roanoke. i take it the car is in richmond? let me know if you are interested. it might be worth a call. i spoke to him at lenght, his price includes sending the heads out to be checked. i don't know how much if any t-belt parts it includes. i was inquiring about a 2.2 / 2.5 engine swap and he said "why not just fix the gaskets, it only 900$." why does your bio say roanoke??

let's see , which is better, ny alone or nj with the other half....????? hmmmmmm... i know what i'd choose.

nice catch, can you share a little more information about the 2 speedos and how to tell them apart.??

are you on the road or are you suggesting you could plan a trip traveling from one repair to the next.??

i'd make sure they'l honor the warranty before you 'take delivery' of the car. is there any fine print about pre-existing condiditons? or a 30 day waiting period? is the warranty based on an inspection by the seller?

thanks

i don't know the numbers, but they will be the same as 95 2.2 AWD. and probably the same as 95 - 99 2.2, maybe 2.5.

i have a 97 obw that the auto down is funny. when the window reaches the bottom, something continues to engage. and until it releases, i can't raise the window. and nothing i do wil release it. it has it's own time frame, not long but still it's own. if i lower the window manually and stop it just before the bottom, no problem. i think i would prefer the no auto down as oppsed to this. can the auto down be disconnected? what is a power window regulator? do these cars have them? could this be the problem? or is it just the switch?

do the rear axle stubs pop out like the front axle stubs do? i read where front axle stubs have popped out of the trans just ot be popped back in and keep going. or this may be just be axle time.

if you are looking for used try here, sort your search by distance: www.car-part.com have you posted in the wanted section of the marketplace here? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=36

he still hasn't said if it's a manual or automatic. this will dictate the ratio of his diff. differential are heavy. shipping them acros the country will cost. closer may be cheaper. i personnaly would go with used. you don't need a 0k miles diff in your car if it's got 200k miles on it. a good used one with 75 - 100k wil work great and you can probably find one for 50$ -75$. if you have to have new / rebuilt, i see no reason not to buy the one pictured. i have never heard of any one here knowingly selling a bad part. if you are looking for used try here, sort your search by distance: http://www.car-part.com

if it's an auto trans it's a 4.44 ratio and any rear diff from a 2.5L auto trans will work, 96 - 99. if manual it going to be a 4.11 ratio and you have your choice of 2.5L manuals 96-99 or 2.2L autos 95 - 99. these links should confirm. http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/trannychart/trannychart.pdf http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=13500&sid=7add370daf15909c801cba58%20f69c2cbd

some one on here used to go on and on about it. said it was the easiest. the other way to pull both is to drop them down and lift the chassis up. you leave the wheels on, un bolt the crossmember and control arms(?) , leave the sway bar on ( i think) disconnect the struts, and brakes & steering lines. and of course, whatever else is hanging on, abs.....

perhaps you can appeal to her more practical side. "honey, sweetheart, if we sell the subaru and buy another car it's going to cost us about X thousands of dollars. if we keep the subaru and don't buy a new car we will save all those dollars; some of which we could then spend on more important things, like, maybe jewelry!!!!" if she doesn't go for that it's a lost cause.

there are 3 primary possibiblities: 1. the boot is not torn and the guy was just trying to get you to spend money. 2. the boot was not torn when you drove in and it is now, and he's just trying to get you to spend money. 3. the boot was torn when you pull in and he's just trying to get you to spend money. my experience is limited, but usually these things will go a long , long time before they fail without any outside help. how many miles on the car?

if '03 is too new , and you like 2.2L engines, you should keep in mind the 90 - 96 2.2L engines were non-interferrence. 97 - until, are all interferrence engines, t-belt, water pump, idler, or tensioner failure equals head / valve damage. so add the cost of a t-belt replacement to any '97 - until' car unless you know for sure when the belt was done. if you don't know when it was done you should do it sooner rather than later. waiting could be expensive.

the mileage on your car will scare off some buyers, BUT a georgia car with no rust is a sight to behold. go to crazedlist.com and search in PA, NY, VT, CONN, MA, ME and see what some cars with rust are bringing. you can always sell it for cheap. what did you pay for it? how many miles have you put on it? how much did you spend on non-maintenance repairs? (brakes, tires, oil, fluids, and tune ups are maintenence items) . add up what you spent on it since you've owned it, purchase and repairs (not including maintenence), subtract a figure for all the miles you have driven (5 cents a mile, 10 cents a mile or something like that ) and what you have left is your "can't go below" sale price.

that does sound high. did you look a http://www.car-part.com ? or craigs list. there's a guy here in va selling doors pretty cheap, but shipping wouyld be costly. what exactly are you looking for? there are lots of parts cars around. front fenders are going to be harder to come by simply because cars a usuallly moving forward when they crash.

there is one small exception. i think in 97, they added a post in the lower door jam of the rear doors. i think you can unscrew it and the 95 doors will fit perfectly. i don't know why they added it , but my 95 sedan doesn't have it and my 97 wagon does.

i'm pretty sure i've got one, but it might take several days to get to it. i figured some one els would be quicker. let me know if you want me to search it out. i remember thinking when i took it apart that this was one of the few parts i'd seen on a legacy that seem out of place. it's too small and too hard to remove . i understand how you dropped it. some one posted recently, i think, that's easier to remove the unit with the cable by disconnecting the other end. let me know. john

is it always the same pump or the same gas station? or does it happen at all pumps/ stations?

some one recently posted a FSM section on the 99? auto trans, i think. it went in to great detail about shimming the pinion gear in the diffential and setting the ring gear with the 2 retaining rings, one at each axle. reading the description of the procedure for putting it together correctly gave me a very good understanding of how it is supposed to work. in a nut shell, if my memory serves me correctly. the pinion and ring gear must mate correctly or they wear funny, badly. solutions were given for too-much-of-this or not-enough-of-that. but what i remember about the retaining rings and the differential is this: after you get the pinion right, you thread in the retaining rings until each one just touches and then back it off. you do this several times to make sure you do not go too far. then, you thread one side IN and the other side OUT the EXACT same (pre set ) number of turns (1.75 turns?). this shifts the ring gear, etc., in the correct direction the correct distance. ( i didn't even bother to try and remember the amount or the direction since i didn't think i'd need it and i knew i would never be able to remember it if i did need it. if i do, i'll do a search.) the long and the short of it is, if you replace the seals ONE SIDE AT A TIME and you re-thread IN the EXACT same number of turns you threaded OUT, you should be able to replace the seals without damaging the differential. but, i'm still in the how-much-is-it-really-leaking camp. if it's not making you add gear oil every few months, why bother. try this at your own risk. gear oil is cheap.

that should take care of it. i would also drain and refill again, can't hurt. did you put in new fluid when you installed the trans. it sounds like you have an intermittent bad duty c. if it was always bad, the fuse would not help. have you gotten the flashing AT TEMP light at start up (or power light)? the only other precaution you might consider is the clutch plates. how many miles on the running trans and how many miles on the spare/bad trans. did it have torque bind when you pulled the bad trans? if not those parts should be good. you might at least look at the plates and compare with the others while you have it out. if one set looks better or if they both look bad, you might swap in different and/or new clutch plates. once the unit is open, checking the plates is easy, a snap ring.

any auto parts store. take in the busted hose, both pieces, and get the size that matches. make sure you get a long enough piece to make the bend with out kinking.