Quidam

Been looking around: "MLS Headgaskets consist of 2-5 layers of steel sheets of different compositions and covered by an elastomer layer that gives excellent sealing properties. Beadings around the combustion chambers and oil/coolant passages increase the local sealing pressure (Macro sealing) whilst full-surface or partial elastomer coatings provide additional tightness (Micro Sealing)." " **Please note, a smooth flat surface is required on the cylinder head and the block to allow the gasket a chance to seal properly." Ummmmm, ok.

I was back at the drill press today, my friend jeff walked in, and I heard him say, "Isn't something missing over here?". The EA-82 block will find it's way in there ASAP, for a trial/test fit. I need studs and serated flange nuts to finish bolting the intake on. And some other stuff. Doug

Hey Peter, What did you decide to do with your block? I got the passenger side, 1 and 3 done today...to this level on both of them. Here's the Cortico Headgasket. Here's NOS Beck/Arnley, both sides. Stainless, graphite...bought about 3 years ago. Current Listing. Here's Beck/Arnley's current listing. Victor Reintz current listing. Graphite and...? Current listing.

Well, here's what I'm gonna do, so this post may be worthless without pictures. And it's probably not for everyone. Because, I'll need to pop the oil pan off, and put it back on without regasketing or new sealant. Coat the oil pan flange liberally with the color of high temp silicone I want. Fill the voids for total support under the gasket. Lay the gasket in the silicone and coat the rest of the gasket with silicone. Edit: I've got Ultra Gray, Ultra Copper, good old High Temp Red, and some other sealants that would do the job. I wouldn't use the copper or red unless I wanted to use it up. It's more expensive and good to 650...700*. Lay wax paper on the block surface, lay the pan in place and install the screws. Wipe off exterior excess and after a while remove the pan. Clean up the silicone. Edit: Inside and outside wet excess gets cleaned off Let it dry some and reinstall. Edit: On more wax paper if necessary. Doug Edit:These EA motors came with a gasket and if I deleted that, I'd have less oil in the motor. A difference of oil level on the stick. My pan is getting fittings, aluminum sump extension, temp sender. It has a magnetic aluminum drain plug, and I have plenty of the gaskets and silicone on hand. We need MOAR pictures:) One thing with silicone is the set/cure time. 24 hrs, and if you can't let it sit, consider something else. Spray Copper and Hi Tack, Permatex 1...2. Used very successfully before silicone came along. The Hi Temp red and such was on the market when these cars were made.... Edit: Fast curing, max oil resistance. Permatex® Ultra Black® Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker OEM specified. For dealership warranty requirements, ensures extended drivetrain warranty compliance. Fast-curing formula. Sensor safe, low odor, noncorrosive. Meets performance specs of OE silicone gaskets. Retains high flexibility, oil resistance properties through use of a patented adhesion system. Temperature range -65ºF to 500ºF (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids and vibration. Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, intake manifold end seals, timing covers, transmission pans Permatex® Ultra Grey® Rigid High-Torque RTV Silicone Gasket Maker OEM specified. Designed specially for high-torque and high vibration applications, like those common in import engines, this premium RTV gasket maker exceeds manufacturers' performance requirements. Noncorrosive and low-odor. Maximum vibration resistance, with outstanding resistance to oils, cooling and shop fluids. Guaranteed not to leak. Temperature range -65ºF to 500ºF (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent. Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, intake manifold end seals, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housings I have kept this on hand, before many here were born:) Don't need hi-temp for this job, tho. Permatex® High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket OEM specified. Formulated for hi-temp applications, or heavy-duty use (such as towing, etc.). Replaces almost any cut gasket by making reliable “formed-in-place” gaskets that resist cracking, shrinking and migrating caused by thermal cycling. Coats pre-cut gaskets to increase reliability. Temperature range -65ºF to 650ºF (-54°C to 343°C) intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids. First generation 1970-1980 gasket maker. Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission pans I like the sprays, I don't get it on me. Permatex® Copper Spray-A-Gasket® Hi-Temp Adhesive Sealant Fast-drying, metallic copper sealant helps dissipate heat, prevents gasket burnout and improves heat transfer. Fills minor surface irregularities. Seals instantly. Fills hot spots and surface imperfections. Temperature range -50°F to 500°F (-45°C to 260°C); resists all types of automotive fluids, especially gasoline. Level 3* Suggested Applications: Cylinder head gaskets, carburetor gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets and other high temperature applications This is a good one to have on hand. Coat a cork gasket. Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 2 Sealant Slow-drying, non-hardening sealant designed for sealing cut gaskets and stamped parts. Allows for easy disassembly if required. Temperature range -65°F to 400°F (-54°C to 204°C); resists common shop fluids and fuels. Use where sealing is more important than adhesion. Suggested Applications: Valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets Permatex® High Tack™ Spray-A-Gasket™ Sealant Fast-drying all-purpose sealant dries to a highly tacky, non-brittle film. A reliable general adhesive. Remains effective under temperatures of -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C). Resists gasoline, oil, antifreeze, axle lube, kerosene, propane and butane. Level 3* Suggested Applications: Valve covers, fuel pumps, carburetors, manifold gaskets; seals all felt, cork, metal, paper, rubber and asbestos gaskets

I should have posted a in that post. I was thinking of The Dude Abides going to that car show and..."I'm bringing mud, Buddy.":banana:for the Dude.

Yea, and that just came to mind. I've heard it said about him that he toured and did more shows than most. A touring machine. Hummm Doug

Well, I was driving my Subaru on Route 50 today, and I hit a Turkey going 55 mph. The dead bird flipped off of my car and hit a State Highway Patrolman's Crown Vic. Then The Man pulls me over. Now, I'm sitting there still a little freaked out by the Turkey Murder, and this guy writes me a ticket for flipping a bird at him. Go figure. Sincerely, Doug

HE said:'these will remain clear and only go on the car for Car Shows." If you wanna keep something precious, go lock it up and throw away the key. If you want to hold on to those possesions, don't even think about me. So, you type **** like that.

This is a Hitachi 4 Bore fuel inlet. Fuel in big one, the small one is drilled like a large carb jet on the return line. With something like this, and roll-over protection to shut the fuel pump off If I ever do that, takes care of those lines. Fuel return near the bottom of the tank is my preference.

"I haven't checked with compressed air yet to hear where it is leaking" That's what I do. Doug

Kosta, Like you had in #2 with the fuel return. The venting is all seperate from this. I would have to see/know what's on the other ends of those lines in the tank. That would help. Doug

Hummmm, I been wanting some MSD myself. Edit: BTW, if I understand right, I'd want to run a return line at the carb with no regulator. To the tank would even be good. Hummmm? Doug

1.8L (EA82) 485-94Passenger Cars (OHC) New: 3.5655" - Min: 3.5450" HSSU18 (2) These are an option if you need them. Rock/Auto lists them too for EA's. I'm wondering just how well these are made, and what they actually look like. I'm wondering if I can use these only in certain situations. 020" Cylinder Head Spacer Shims Cylinder Head Spacer Shims help restore the valve train geometry, valve clearance, compression ratio, and cam timing to factory specs on engines where the cylinder head and/or block surfaces have been resurfaced below factory limits. Precision cut from 0.020" cold rolled steel, each shim is produced using a CNC laser. This eliminates the rolled edge present on shims that are manufactured using a punch press. Our shims are made from steel for several important reasons: 1. Steel has a higher heat tolerance than copper, the material used by other manufacturers. In hotter running late model engines, heat resistance is very important to insure the integrity of the shim. Steel is superior for this environment. 2. Steel cylinder head shims have a hardness factor similar to that of the block. This allows the gasket fire ring to properly "crush" as the head is torqued to spec. 3. Steel shims are less likely to be damaged in shipping and from mishandling or mishaps in the shop. Note: .030" & .040" shims can be special ordered, call

I did some more work on this, took a picture. Then did some more work on this. In search of TWE. Used, first gen heads, surfaced and standard valve job done. It will be tuned port, pocket ported, full port. Multi-angle valve job cut with Serdi machine comming. I have all new Lash Adjusters. Really, they don't lift anything, they don't get "lifted", they adjust lash. They don't get lifted by the cam. Now, an EA-81 has LIFTERS, they indeed get lifted by the cam, then the LIFTER LIFTS the pushrod, consequently lifting the rocker arm and etc. End rant. I've broken down three turbos and this one is the only one that isn't cracked in the waste gate. I'll need a bigger turbo for these heads and intake tho. Doug

Hey Fox, FYI. In Ohio, I don't need a title for a race car. Doug

Hi, I'm in Ohio. I junked the title to a 129000 mile GL wagon. A rust bucket. I did this so I could transfer plates to another Subaru. The lady at the title office said to me a few times: Are you sure this is what you want to do? "Once the title is junk, you can never get another title for it." "It's gone." etc. It's not the same as a Salvage title. hth Doug

"explains why my pants have been damp....erggggg and its gonna rain all day... :/" If you use ductape the same color as the car, on the outside, it will seal it up for a while. If you do a good job, it won't come off for longer. Till you can get it fixed, or dig into it. And it can be even hard to spot from a distance. Doug

"its Parts out for this XT6 :(" 5 lug swap stuff available? Think about it, let me know. Sincerely, Doug

It has one small crater, upper right corner, oblong water passage. Area where it doesn't get covered with the hedgasket. Pocket microscope. There are two "dents" where I damaged it pulling the dowels. Easy cleanup on that radius, all aluminum. Cylinder liners aren't involved at all in that. A new head with WD-40 between them, "sticks" to the block. I still need to get it measured, and go from there. I get charged less by the machinist when I do some of the prep. Makes his job easier, and cheaper. Edit: That's flourescent paint, and I use a blacklight.

Hi, The GL-10 has the turbo engine in part, because of it's weight. Saddled with AC, and all that GL-10 stuff. Even the drivers seat is heavier. Not a good combination for a SPFI EA-82. Add your stuff, people...one advantage you'll have is the five speed, either way. Does it have a diff lock? It shouldn't, but front wheel drive and pushbutton 4WD? Only LSD I've got is in a '88 Turbo Traction Wagon. 5 sp, diff lock, AWD. My '86 with auto, pushbutton 4WD. my '87 has 5 sp. pushbutton 4WD. I have two three GL-10's here, none of the sunroofs leak.:-\ And they too add weight. Which is the better body, which one would you want to work on? hth, Doug

Bought this for It.

"Justy will get done, just different then started will be a quick build once I get on it again" Popcorn.

We skipped the step about pulling the dowels. Upper left corner, when I pulled these, I damaged the block. My intention pulling the pins, decking the block. Cylinder 2 and 4. This is the "best looking" side of the PermaTorque gasket we're talking about. I've never used one, but I'm sure it would do just fine, will even fill some of those imperfections. Right side where I have a pencil witness mark. This new head has a small gouge, and it involves the fire ring area. I'll get that fixed up for a SPFI I'm putting together.

As for Spray Copper. It's basically copper flakes and solvents, some tacky stuff. Copper is compatable with Graphite, no? Copper is very compatable with stainless. Question is, how compatable is the copper coat with aluminum. I can tell you now, I've used it on a steel shim headgasket, aluminum block and heads...may be some long term corrosion? IDK I wouldn't be afraid to use aluminum header paint on Subaru gaskets. Corrosion: All metals have a property called nobility. It is a measure of a metal's resistance to corrosion when in contact with another metal. A greater relative difference in nobility between the two metals in contact indicates a greater corrosion potential. Table 1.1.4 ranks the most common metals used in construction in increasing nobility, called the galvanic number. Table 1.1.4 - The Nobility of Common Metals 1. Aluminum 2. Zinc 3. Steel 4. Iron 5. Stainless Steel - Active 6. Tin 7. Lead 8. Copper 9. Stainless Steel - Passive