Quidam

Hey, If your car "really" overheated, that would indeed imply that the heater core is vital for cooling the car. The "hottest it's going to get" coolant coming from that tube would be redirected and problbly influiences the reading on the temperature sending unit. That's what it looks like to me, a possibility. But if your car really "overheated", I can't see how that could be true. Doug

Yes.

Just some thoughts. The coolant goes through the heater core all the time. There is no valve to shut it off. What heat you get in the cabin, that's controlled by a flapper door for air movement. You can check the temperature drop on the rad with a heat gun. You should see a 20 degree or so drop in temp. Comparing the coolant flowing into the radiator on top, and what's being suctioned out on bottom by the water pump. Doug

I saw an ea 82 Weber adaptor yesterday on ebay, now it's gone. Harder to find as a single part purchase it seems. Just for what if value:). Was looking at a EA 82 carb and SPFI intake side by side today. The SPFI intake is bigger still than the carb intake. I measured 1/16" bigger ports with a carpenters ruler. I don't think anyone has done "that" adaptor tho. It would sure use a Weber to it's potential. Take a look. Only two vaccum ports and uncluttered. Doug

"Crank heat to HOT on full blast and only warmish air." This isn't a diagram of your EJ but same principal. The heads are the hottest part of the motor and the heater core gets the flow from there. Your core behaves like it's clogged, or they act like that with an air bubble. I don't believe this being clogged will cause a motor to overheat. I think a through inspection of the radiator would be a good move. hth

This is an EA=82? You said Brat...didn't come with that or lifters.

What engine do you have, ea 81? Parts are not hard to find at all. What do you need? Doug

Look for a bolt on the pump and remove it. It has a spring between this bolt and the metal oil relief valve. May look like this:Remove that bolt opposite the oil filter.

Check to see what it's got on it now. Last one I did, I cleaned the metal filter and reused the same gasket. It wasn't cork. Doug

If it's a burned valve, you should be able to detect a "put put put' sound at the exaust pipe. That is, what compression blows past a valve can be heard. Any chance the valves need adjusted?

"Can anyone recommend the place with the best price?" This one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3984Q2em1438Q2el2649QQitemZ390340564895QQsspagenameZSTRKQ3aMEWAXQ3aIT

Hey, One other possibility is that the bypass plunger may be stuck/bound up somehow. Hey, you've got nothing to lose checking:) Doug

Hey, Something to consider. The intake is subject to what, 21" vaccum? I suspect it's been the head/intake interface all along. The new thermostat was a good move. Old, intsalled dry gaskets just simply leak at some point. Coolant then corrodes the bolts and creates a possible leak into the intake. I've taken to coating the gaskets with No.2 Permatex. It stays soft and seals. Light coat is all that's needed. Good amount of torque on those 80mm and 55mm bolts helps too. Long and twisty so lube the threads and under the heads of the bolts well. hth Doug

I've taken the power hacksaw and cut the threads off above the nut, so that should help too. Yea, heat and the vice for this job. I've got access to aceteline now:) Doug

I might have to try that stuff. I have at least a dozen of those nuts still on the stud. You know, where the threads are corroded away. Subaru put those stainless nuts so at least we'd still have a nut intact to extract the stud, I guess. Doug

You may need to replace the cam carrier. If you need one let me know, I can ship pronto. Doug

Walker, Eastern and Bosal. Doug

Let me know what you've actually got. Carb, SPFI, MPFI, what generation heads, and so forth. Doug

If you don't want it, how much shipped to 45701? Or I could buy a CCR rebuilt for 2K plus. Doug

Well, it's been nuts here:) You can get the brass nuts from the UK. Honda, Toyota uses the same size studs and nuts and Japanese sport bikes use the same size for sprocket nuts. Available in Ti, stainless, aluminum with stainless insert. Lug nuts for a four wheeler look like they might work and are cap nuts, enclosing all the threads. I ordered a dozen stainless sprocket nuts from the UK for about $1.25 each shipped. I've been buying this stuff from the UK and China lately. Yea, and the idea with stainless is to use a soft metal on the stud/nut combo for anti seize. Tho I did buy a dozen zinc studs, nuts, and washers to have on hand. $10.00 at a local muffler shop. Doug

Never mind:)

If you put that pan on a 2.5 you'll be concerned about it and need to check the oil more often. If you have a DOHC 2.5 there is simply more oil needed in the engine, more places for it to be than in a SOHC 2.2. Your call tho. hth Doug

Subaru. You're in Detroit so you are seeing what I see. Subaru exhaust nuts are 304 stainless. If you can salvage any, make sure to run a tap through them and not just try to rethread using a bolt. Doug

Here's what I use for cam lobes. REV LUBE: A non-detergent lubricant containing Molybdenum-Disulphide which is spread on the cam lobes when installing a camshaft to prevent galling and insure protection during the critical break-in-period - the first 5 minutes of operation. I use Lubriplate and engine oil on the rest. Lots of different stuff out there but those two haven't failed me yet. Doug

But it would fit. You could use a copper/brass VW Rabbit Diesel rad and switch the suction fitting to the drivers side. 1975-1975 VOLKSWAGEN SCIROCCO 1.5L L4 GAS ; WITH COPPER BRASS 2 ROW DIMENSION: 18 7/8 X 12 5/8 X 1 1/4 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1977-1980-VW-RABBIT-RADIATOR-1-5L-L4-DIESEL-75-SCIROCCO-/150621020037?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Submodel%3ACustom%7CModel%3ARabbit&hash=item2311b65f85 Edit:Add a fill neck to the rad? There are several options for the cap and fill. On the manifold with the thermostat, inline, add one to this rad? You don't need a custom aluminum. Edit: Well, could be you do to get the fit you want. But if you took that rad to a rad shop, they could fix you up with custom fit for a relatively small price. Refinish after they work it over and all. Hummm