RenaissanceMan

Its like I WANT to understand what you typed, but nuthins clicking...

The nice thing about a college budget is that your time aint worth anythin, so if you can fabricate some stupid bolt rather than go buy one... you will... I have done that at least. Delta Camshafts makes an upgrade cam for your engine.. throws on a couple horsepower As far as compression... leave it where it is, otherwise below 2K you wont be able to move out of your own way. IF you run turbo, only do so if your engine is in great shape and has NO ROD KNOCK, meaning the lower end hasnt given up... Run Mobile 1 for sure... Thats the info I can give you... I'm still waitin on parts before I can start doing the REAL modifications.. (and yes your engine will like 7500 rpms) -Mike

OK, let me throw in my 2 cents about the justy ok.... you cant make any judgements on a justy's performance till you've rallied one. When I had my 94 ' EFI justy runnin.. That thing ran like its @$$ was on fire!!! for the record my stock EFI 73 HP justy has done 100mph... Man I beat the ever loving crap out of that car. Every day I drove it Id hit 7500 at least once or twice, thats even with the horrible rod knock it had cause the lower end was going out. We cant say the justy is the best car subaru ever made, but you cant say it was a mistake on subaru's part either. Right now I am building a new motor for it. I sent out the camshaft to Delta to get the high performance one, and sittin right next to my motor is a Toyota SC12 electric-clutch supercharger. When I find a way to stuff that big thing under the hood I'll get some 1/4 mile times for y'all.. -Mike

jesus what are you doing down there??? Dont you live like way up north? Anyway, look for an "Ecology Auto Parts" They are all over southern california and i hear that they are awesome. -Mike

A couple of corrections to make now that we have the chiltons for it. It uses a dana 30 front end, the transmission is a Torqueflight 998 (with lockup torque convertor).. and it uses a New Process 128 viscous AWD transfer case. It turns out the Gearbox is from an early 80's chevrolet S10, and the rear brakes are from a 60's-mid 70's E100. What other things will I find? -Mike

Damn, I have been real busy with my friends Eagle and getting a new place to live. What place did you take it so I can see what I can grab? -Mike

Ok so we got the bad Eagle engine out, and all I have to say is that forkin s*&T is hacked in there from the factory! I LOVE MY SUBARU! We got a Jeep/Renault Engine, using a GM Delco alternator, and a GM power steering pump, a Ford Starter, a Chrysler torqueflight 727 transmission, with a dana 44 front differential BOLTED TO THE ENGINE. What kind of unholy demon posessed engineers put this thing together?? (well they did engineer the Gremlin I guess) The funny part is that you cant take off the exhaust pipe without taking the driver side engine mount off, and the driver side engine mount is also holding up the differential. In order to disconnect the differential, you need to take the intake manifold off cause its the only way to get to one of the bolts. Well anyway, the work is underway. Once I get the engine back in my 77 wagon (blown head gasket). I am gonna start on my 3 inch lift for my brat, and maybe some of the body work. -Mike

Score international Rule book says: Any engine can be used provided is was produces and delivered by the manufacturer provided it is 4.3L & 6 cyl or less... (it does not say anything about the year) Transmission must be one listed and offered for that vehicle. (1981 they offered the d/r 4sp 4wd...) I am using my gen 1 brat cause I HAVE a gen 1 brat. (I think it adds to the challenge) Now I know we're on a subaru forum here, and granted I am VERY loyal to subaru, but I think you guys need to give the AMC some credit. Him and I have gone over this thing and its BUILT LIKE A TANK. unreliability was in their attemt at a POS computer controlled carburetor. The 258 it comes with is only like 110 HP stock, but its got some ungodly amount of Torque. For the race, any carburetor may be used (unfortunately the engine never came with fuel injection as far as I know, maybe in later model jeeps?) provided you have as many venturis as cylinders or less. The Torqueflight 727 it uses is a solid tranny and we will rebuild one for the race (though chryslers like to shed metal). Keep in mind suspension and steering components must remain stock design, and the AMC has longarm short arm, and leaf springs in the back. I believe it is allowed for me to beef up my control arms and strut rods. Id say the one weakness that the AMC has is the length of that driver side CV joint. Just some more thoughts for ya'll -Mike JB I would have totally stopped by, and same for you Brian, but we were in the middle of the night/morning, and also we were on a time crunch. we had to be in King City at 8:00AM so Sam could make some meeting.. We arrived at 8:01AM (only to find out the meeting didnt start till 9:banghead: )

Ok people, this years cuesta college challenge is on!! After immense searching, my friend and I found a 1987 Eagle for sale in Nevada for $500... Yesterday Him and I set out with a car trailer at about 3pm from Atascadero, California. We arrived in the Nevada location at 10:30PM. We had to then pull out a spare motor from another eagle (in the middle of the freezing night mind you) Because the one in the eagle he bought was bad (it was all part of the deal). After getting the engine and loading the Wagon onto the carhauler. We headed off at 1:30AM towards reno, accross 80, down to king city, and then Atascadero again. How long was the trip??? 1000 miles!! accomplished including pulling the engine, in only 19 hours. OK, now to get to the point. My friend Sam has an eagle now. I have my Brat. The semester is starting next week THE CHALLENGE: Race prep both vehicles with 3 inch body lifts, engine rebuilds/modifications. Roll cages to spec. Race seats, rage cages, offroad lights.. etc.. (basically prep the vehicles to run Stock Mini Class in Score International for the BAJA 1000!!!!!) I will be using my ER27 MPFI motor with a 4 speed D/R transmission in the brat He will be using the 4.2 litre inline six cyl with probably a torqueflight tranny to back it up, w/ on demand 4wd of course. THE QUESTION: who do you put your bets on for completing the race in the 30 hour time limit alotted? Comments?

watchout for the camber correction at 6". to get it right you have to do some pounding on the strut towers, and on the driver side I found that when you get the tower where you need it "adjusted" the brake booster no longer clears and cannot be R&R'ed. So anyway your going to have a LITTLE bit of positive camber in order to get everything to fit. (this applies to only the EA81 vehicles btw) -MIke

garunteed its all your rod bearings. Its truly inevitable with these engines at that milage. Unfortunately there is no cheap rebuild, as if there are any grooves on the oil pump journal in the timing cover, then a bushing needs to be installed or something, and a new oil pump shaft & impeller as well. Crank will have to be turned and use undersized bearings. If you dont fix the oil pump and just replace the bearings, youll probably be getting the same sound in 1000k miles or less. -Mike

Hey Rich, I only need a couple things. Mainly I need the Combination Valve, rear hoses possibly, and I need the rear manual adjusters for the drum brakes. I'll give you a call tomorrow.Thanks, -Mike

Rich, Ea81 Trannies will have the starter off to the side, not in the center of the top of the bell housing. Does that brat you got have some brake parts you would be interested in selling? Thanks, -Mike

all 3 sprockets come off at the same time to get the chain off if I recall. Remove the chain guide first of course. Are you absolutely sure its the balance shaft chain? Those engines have a huge lubrication problem and the lower end goes out at around 130-140,000 on average. Chiltons manuals obscurely go over justy info. -Mike *edit* you shouldent have to use a puller unless they are really baked on there, just gently pry with two flat blade screw drivers on the crankshaft sproket, followed by the other two untill you can slip one of the sprokets off and the chain will come off. beck arnley #024-1051 Napa #94166 for the chain guide the napa # is 95278

Id be totally interested in the FSM for the 76' 1400 & 1600. I have a 1977 Stage 1 wagon.Thanks, -Mike

Make an order from ITM or ITM distributor. They got awesome subaru parts and they wont ream you like OEM.

Justy is 4x100... backspacing I have no idea. Be prepared to put some rubber bands on those 15 inch rims if you arent planning on doing any persuading or cutting. I am running aftermarket 13 rims with a decent profile on the tires. If I turn too quickly or go over any bumps, they rub... my solution? a 2 inch lifted justy of course! -Mike

Hey man, sorry about your car, I had mine totaled back in the day when someone in the snow was trying to move it when I wasnt there. Anyway I just wanted to mention that yes your car is totaled. believe it or not your actually looking at about $4000 damage at LEAST. Unfortunately auto body work is quite expensive. that rear floor piece would need to be drilled out and replaced, which means dropping the gas tank, suspension, exhaust, etc... and the quarter panel shows signs of buckling, so who knows whats behind it. I do agree that a mint condition subaru like yours is worth at least $1700 if not $2200+. When my 84 wagon with 250,000 got totaled it was only valued at $1300, but they added the motor, transmission, battery, brakes, etc that I had put into it (I had reciepts) and it became a $1700 car.

In 1986 or 87 they came out with a revised 72-84 clymers manual, basically the same one that you have with EA81 stuff added. I actually just picked one up at a used book store the other day. If anyone is interested in a 72-82 clymers, theres one of those still there going for ten bucks. let me know and I'll get it for em. -Mike

I have torn into those RX trannies quite a bit, the only way you can change the final drive in them IMO, is to get the final drive out of the FT 4wd XT6. The regular PT 4wd transmissions have a way different output shaft. One thing I did notice, is that you CAN take the lowgear setup out of a PT and put it in the RX transmission, as the input shafts for the two are the same. I seriously think the only way to get a better than 3.9 final drive in a FT 4wd subaru transmission is to either have a reduction gear between the engine and transmission, or simply have a machine shop make you a custom gear set $$$$$. -Mike

It kinda sounds like its doing what its supposed to be doing. The low Idle when you first start up is the choke idle up not being adjusted properly or something. But when you let it sit after driving it it goes from 1100 to 900 slowly, thats what its supposed to be doing. On the carburetor there is a "dashpot" that, after accelerating, holds the idle high for a couple seconds before letting it drop down to set idle. This prevents excessive emissions. Was your brat not doing this before? -Mike

the Subaru justy EF10 and EF12 are an engine family in all their own... no suzuki, daihatsu, or GM motor will bolt directly up to that bellhousing. I have been all over compact cars at the wrecking yards trying to find something else that will fit. The only thing actually, that I did see that was a similar bellhousing, was a 2cyl industrial diesel engine made by subaru that was on ebay a few months back. I am purely fascinated by the little 3 banger anyway. I like the fact that the little motor puts out approx 1hp per cubic inch mpfi from the factory. When time and money allow in the near future, I am gonna see just how much HP I can squeeze out of my EF12 motor. (sc12 supercharger) -Mike

more descriptive on the clunk noise? could be a driveline U-joint, or CV's binding like suggested earlier -Mike

early ea71 & ea81 bellhousings are different. The flywheel/clutch is smaller on the ea71's too. What you need to do is use an ea71 ""fat case".. which came in the 80's hatches and sedans. Some of those came with the starter thats off to the side and will bolt up to that later model transmission. -Mike (happy holidays)

Ya, I actually have like 215/60R15s on my brat, there is a little rubbing when you are going in reverse & turning, but also have my front end suspension lifted like 1-1.5 inches. -Mike