RenaissanceMan

My concern would be welding low carbon to high carbon steel and having it become brittle and cracking, not warping the tie rods necessarily...

Thats the map sensor, used to determine engine load, for the air/fuel calculation. I imagine it would run like crap with that disconnected.

ok, so has anyone else out there done some suspension modification where they need longer tie rods? I have an EA81 car with stock engine cradle and rack, but my control arms stick out 2 inches longer per side (4 inches total).. the axles are taken care of, but does anyone know of longer tie rods that will fit? I know ea82 tie rods are about an inch longer, but thats still not enough for my application. any suggestions welcome. (I could cut and weld yes, but I am trying to make them replaceable, plus I believe they are hardened steel that isnt so friendly to welding) -Mike

you name it, its been done.. we've had people put 3 inch, 4 inch, 6 inch, 8 inch, 10 inch, and even 12 inch lifts if I recall... tires from 26 inch all the way up to 35's, throwing in extra transfer cases. Keeping independent differentials front and rear, or installing solid toyota axles w/ leaf springs. Even all the way as building complete custom subframes on the larger lifts. Just start doing searches thru the forum for posts on modifications people have done. Engine swaps, intercoolers, headers, weber carbs, converting to CIS. (welcome to the board by the way) -Mike

I always thought the rocker arm assembly was exactly the same, they only had these locking tabs on the ones that had hyrdualic, so people wouldent fart with them. And the lifters themselves were down in the block riding on the cam. someone correct me on this?

ROFL, ever since I took apart my 4 wagon, all the other vehicles I have owned since, have never made it to the "Driving a medium distance without fear" stage....

Yes, I have been researching the idea for quite a while, ever since WCSS6, when one of the new forum guys put one of those M62's on his EJ22 Legacy. Right now I am building my super car, using the EA82 engine of course cause of cheapness of parts. I am concerned the amount of drag it will put on the motor will outweigh the torque. This is why I am looking into the smaller Eaton M45 which is designed for motors 1.6- 3 Liters, or somwhere in that range. My main debate is whether to go with low compression pistons for longevity, or high compression pistons, for the HP.. which, who wouldent want HP?

sorry, I guess I didnt mention that that WAS for the front end...

Monstaru, yes it can be done... I went to the boneyard and found a set of ea82 axles (just happened to be off of an XT, but not important). you can take off the outer CV joints and put on the Outers from your EA81 vehicle, this will increase them in length by approximately 2 inches. HOWEVER, I am lenthening everything in the suspenision too, by sectioning and lengthening the control arms, etc... the vehicle is still by far ready from being driven, but thats one of the things I am working on. -Mike

I remember years ago I had the same issue, and what happened for a while is that the hill holder would start sticking untill you gave the clutch pedal a jolt... if your HH has tighened up cause they are annoying like that, then its probably just stretching your clutch cable.. just wait another week or two and the hillholder cable will snap like mine, and all will be good... -Mike (I suppose you could also just take the hillholder cable off to prevent any problems too)

junkyards for a replacement tranny is the only way to go. Parts for these vehicles are EXTREMELY difficult to get.

this morning up in the pick and pull in newark I saw both a GL10 wagon 5sp FT4wd turbo w/ LSD and all, AND I saw a GL10 turbo auto FT4wd with unforunately an open rear end. I gotta find out who keeps on jacking all the lSDs from the junkyards around here. BUT if anyone wants that full time 4wd 5 speed tranny, its still there. and its 25% off weekend. Also there was a set of pug steelies 14" that if someone makes me a good offer on I will get them before I leave.

my 84 wagon towed a 550 lbs motorcycle on a trailer for 200 miles without complaining at all. And I pull cars all the time with my 87 DL spfi, but always less than a mile (to a gas station or something for some people) Honestly if you have a manual transmission and you keep it in low gears you can tow whatever the hell you want is what I say. stopping can be a problem if the trailer doesnt have brakes

Every single time I run into this problem on putting in an ea82 or ea81 motor its because I am playing stupid and thought the distributor was rotating the other direction.. so only 2 cylinders were doing anything. Try switching cylinders 3 & 4 on the cap (opposite of eachother) and see if your motor suddenly comes to life.-Mike

This is my daily driver, 94 5sp 2wd, mpfi. I saw it sitting in a junkyard next to where I live and convinced the yard owner to sell it to me for $300 with a blown up motor (really blown up). I drove up to san jose to get a j/y replacement motor. every single part on the car, gaskets, seals and everything are special order except the oil filter. even the air filter had to be special ordered (I work at napa). I just ordered a new pair of CV's for it that came from colorado. I love this car to death as it is the smallest and most fun thing I have ever driven. despite what people think, that little 3 banger has GUTS!!!! (yes I painted the stripe on it, to add to its awesomeness) -Mike

thats some fine fabricating there. My question is why didnt you just heat up the stock and flatten it out, and then drill holes in it and bolt it to the control arm like on the ea81 setups? I've had to do a TON of subaru suspension fabrication lately, so this really interests me. I just acquired a 78 brat that needs some restoration, so this I definetly will have on my mind.

ya, I hadnt finished, theres gonna be some framing going across the top, and one support across the middle of both sides. the two pieces that support the sides are thicker than they appear as well, those are 7/16 solid rod

well anyway last week I got most of the skid plate put on my subie with its 6 inch lift.. 3/16' thick diamond plate w/ 1 inch .125 wall tubing framing it. I put the honeycomb on the sides for looks and to keep rocks and stuff out, but to allow decent airflow. You'll also notice that the front crossmemeber isnt quite the same, and has been replaced with 2x2 tubing. THis is because my old one was fubar from hittin stuff, and I also adapted the space to fit a larger aluminum one from a early 90's vw jetta

Dealer only on the motor mounts. I work for a napa and we cant get them, believe me I have done the research. I also run into the same problems with having to special order even a darn air filter for the thing. I was planning on grabbing a junkyard set and re-molding them with some kind of urethane compound... If I get frustrated enough I'll just weld the stinker to the body

87 Subaru DL 2wd wagon 3sp auto, "POS series" at 291,000 miles and just passed smog yesterday

TO make it all fit? you DONT WANT TO KNOW. its been one thing after another to get this suspension to work along with the ea82T motor and the lift... also btw, for the axles I took the outer CVs from the EA81 style and put them on the EA82 axles to make them compatable with the EA81 style spindles. other than the clips being a little stubborn. it worked great

for anyone who wants to know, the EA82 axles are about 2 inches longer than the EA81's, also on the outer CV joint, the seal is 1/4 inch larger diameter, other than that they are the same. also on the XT's and late model loyales they used a "larger" outer CV joint cup. I think what I am gonna do is put the outer joints from my ea81 axles on to my ea82 halfshafts, and kick out the front wheels an extra 2 inches on each side (compensating the other suspension components of course).

Not too bad... the brakes have got to be the biggest bummer cause you have to re-bleed them when you put them on the new car Youve got the 2 bolts on each side up top for the strut mounts. the bolts for the control arm bushings. The nut that holds the radius rods in their mounts near the transaxle crossmember. Just take off the sway bar all together and do one side at a time. The tie rod ends will thread out, just leave the outer ends on the knuckles. you could get away with just taking the axles out at the transaxle side. brake lines have to be disconnected "somewhere" I cant think of anything else that holds that all in -Mike

Theres something real creepy goin on... I just was surfin thru the board and read this thread last night... low and behold, on my way home from class last night that little chingadero hose started blowin steam on me and I was borderline overheatin when I got home at 10:30 I refilled it with coolant and drove it borderline overheating to school today, so now I gotta fix that dang thing again

Sortof a side note for DR. RX here, or anyone else who knows. Is there any particular reason you put the LSD diffy in the 3.9 case, rather than put the 3.9 gears in the LSD case?