RenaissanceMan

I assume this is on your 89 DL??? what car?? anyway.. if you tell me where the vacuum hoses go, and a picture of the box, I can probably tell you what it is. -Mike

I've pulled the engine on my justy at least 4 times, it was never bad for me. I have timed it to where the engine is up and out of the car and on the workbenck start to finish in less than an hour. Its like working on a go-kart. Everything is lightweight and easy to bolt on and off. The only thing I find to be a hassle it taking off the manifold while leaving the engine/head in the car. WATCH OUT for the oil pump on these poor things. if the lower end of the engine doesnt make any noise consider it a blessing. Whether its running strong or not REPLACE THE OIL PUMP BEFORE ITS TOO LATE. once the timing cover goes bad, thats the end of it for that motor. Anyway, I love my justy to pieces. Its the best around-town zippy little car I have ever owned, and it will smoke the pants off of a metro. -Mike

If you read the service manual write up on replacing a head gasket on an EA71 motor, it says "Though removing and installing the head with the motor in the vehicle is physically possible, it should not be done because one cannot properly align the head with the engine block and head gasket failure will result." 2 cents -Mike

So THATS what my brat looked like in 1978... if you could see past the missing door handles, dented quarter panel, spots of surface rust that look like desert camo, cancer holes in the bottoms of the fenders, mismatched aftermarket mirrors, smashed in front bumper, rusted out and dented rear bumper, peugot alloy rims, cancer holes in the floor, missing screws in the bed cover panels, missing jump seats, ripped driver seat.... MY BRAT LOOKS EXACTLY LIKE YOURS!

Just thought I should mention to everyone here that I too am looking into the mid-engine idea. I have an ER27 bolted to a 2wd 5 speed sitting in my garage. My idea is to put it in my lifted wagon (84 GL) to go all out baja style, so I can get the room I need up front for suspension. I havent really started looking into it all that much other than I got the engine and transmission. Every once in a while I go out there and scratch my head for a bit trying to figure out how to cut up the back of my car to get it all to fit and such. -Mike (the alternative is that I also was thinking of bolting the transmission to my EA82T engine and putting it midship in the kit car my friend and I are building from the ground up)

In the late 80's & early 90's toyota MR2's were available with an SC12 supercharger, which everyone might be interested in. It is VERY similar to an Eaton M62, only it runs 1.2 Liters per revolution. Like the M62 it has an electric clutch for it. I managed to get a good one on ebay for $200. I have a rebuilt EA82T that awaits it. I wasnt planning on running any more than 9 psi of boost. I'll get it done one day and let you know how it turns out.

hmm.. I might recommend going for a 4 cylinder from a daihatsu, or a suzuki. Suzuki makes a really cool 16 valve 1.3 litre 4cyl, (with lots of aftermarket stuff available too) that with a little bit of tweaking might be able to fit into a justy using the donor car transaxle of course. if all you burnt up was the transaxle in your justy, whats the story on the motor? interested in selling it if its in good shape? -Mike

From kennedy engineering you can get an adaptor to make a vw tranny bolt to a subaru engine, or a subaru engine bolt to a vw tranny.. but the two bell housings are very different. The vw engine doesnt have a front bell housing piece and just has a flywheel stickin out the back, and the transmission houses the whole thing. where as on a subaru obviously you have the half thats bolted to the engine and the half thats part of the transaxle hope that helps -Mike

Ok, I just thought I should inform everyone that I have had these 2 trannies, the EA82 DR & RX FT4wd tranny apart for a very long time and it scares me trying to figure out how to make things work... Heres what you can do.. the low range switch is a definite yes, thats easy to get a 1.52 low range into an RX tranny... you just swap it out.. The hard part is making the final drive 3.9, which for a long time I thought was impossible, but after some recent discoveries, it IS possible. The XT6 uses a 5 speed ft4wd transmission that has a 3.9 final drive ratio... YOU NEED the outputshaft and ring gear from this transmission, along with some shims I imagine, and it will fit in the RX tranny, so in the end you will end up with a 1.52 low gear, Ft4wd transmission with centerlock, and a final drive of 3.9.. which as far as I am concerned.. is AWESOME. I hope that transmission is still in the yard by the time I get back to it in a few weeks. -Mike

Ok guys, I just wandered out in the dark and checked. It looks like the tire size is 205/60 R15-Mike

Just make sure the tires are somewhat low profile and they will fit fine. I have 15 inch pug alloys on my 78 brat, and they fit no problem. I cant remember off hand what size tire they are, but if you need to know, I'll check for ya and send you an email. (its whatever was stock on the 505 peugot that I pulled them off of) The only spot where its real close is on the rear where the tire comes within 1/4 of an inch of the pivot point for the torsion arm. -Mike

Just in case anyone was interested I thought I would let people know that theres a full set of 14 inch pug steelies at the North San Jose pick and pull yard. They are on a 504, so they are the older style.. but theres 4 of them. Theres also 3, 14 inch alloys on a 505 at the same yard. -Mike

its like a go cart and an alien spaceship had a love child. :-\

check your egr valve first, thats easy... when the car is idling, just stick your finger in the opening under the diaphram, and push it.. if you cant push it, then its probably already open an you got problems, of you are able to push it, and the car DOESNT stumble when you do, then somethings clogged. -Mike (that will at least get you started, its hard to diagnose the thing without more data)

Thats what a landing looks like Personally this one is my favorite pic.

I'm pretty sure you can get a carpet kit just by going down to a NAPA and having them order one. They wont be able to tell you right off hand. Listed in their "PSE" catalog will be the manufacturers, and they'll have to give them a call. Anyway, I would try that -Mike

Naw, I got the local yards around here memorized, and they all know me by name.

So I put some new transmission mounts in, and decided to give them a proper testing... DOES ANYONE HAVE A GEN 1 RACK AND PINION WITH INNER TIE RODS??? I happened to be in desperate need for it.. after my day at the dunes with the brat, going down the road is like getting the shopping cart at the grocery store with the messed up wobbly wheel. Thanks, -Mike

a little rain and mud never hurt nobody.... well maybe someone somewhere has gotten injured from rain or mud, but point being, if ya wanna get it done, just get it done and dont worry bout the rain.

Hey thats cool! if you need any help moving em let me know. I got a friend in A-town with a big F150 that would be willing to let me borrow it for towing. (to me a full size pickup is huge) Send me a pm. -Mike

Well I dont know if your brumby has the same filters as our brats here in the US did in 87... but if its got 2 lines on it, its a Beck Arnley 0430413, and if its got 3 lines on it, its a Beck Arnley 0430816 (Wix/Napa 3204) (I assume your brumby is Normally aspirated) Hope that helps -Mike

so I decided to scope the damage from rust on my poor brat and much to my dismay, there were several points where you poked at something bubbly with a screw driver, and it would poke right through to the cabin. So...my question is does anyone have a gen 1 ANYTHING (brat, wagon, sedan, coupe) out there that has some body parts they are scrapping from it? The passenger side fender is beyond repair, the driver one isnt that great either. I also need a rocker panel from below the passenger door. And also the area around the fender flare on the rear passenger side. I'm willing to travel a bit if anyone has some of these parts and doesnt want to cut them off and will let me hack away at it. Thanks, -Mike

So hey all, I got a question for the experts out there. I have a 78 brat with all the bells and whistles that were available in that year... and much to my suprise, air conditioning!? Its kindof scary, all the hoses look like they arent meant to handle a lot of pressure, and it uses regular worm gear clamps. Unfortunately it looks like the condenser and compressor are missing, but Its still got some of the hosing, the little tank thingy, and the evaporator that is taking up space in my glove box... it even says "subaru air conditioning" on it. Well, to be honest.. I dont want the air conditioning so I was thinking about removing it. How common was it to have air conditioning on a gen 1? when I got the truck and saw it in the engine bay when I was pulling the engine, it was the first I had ever heard of any subaru that old having it. next question... does anyone want it?

if nothing is driving the front wheels, there is no reason for anything to bind in the rear. What you need to do is take apart your CV shafts... nothing needs to be on the transaxle end, cause that has sealed stubshafts.. you DO however need the spindle end. if you take off the outer CV boot, put the axleshaft in a vice and hammer the crap out of the inner ball carrier (preferrably with a brass punch so you dont destroy the surfaces incase you decide to use the parts in a future project) the whole assembly will eventually slide off (it has to overcome a spring clip on the splines) once the outer joint is off, you can rotate the thing around and start removing the balls till all of them are out, then if you fidget with the carrier turning it sideways you can get that out to. So now you have an empty CV cup that you can stick back in the knuckle & hub.

Theres a woodruff key on the crankshaft, and a groove in your pulley, so it will only go on in 1 given way (on some pulleys I have seen markers for TDC & BDC by the way).. if that key aint there to keep the pulley from being torqued, bad things will happen. I have a friend whos got a 22RE yoda pickup and because the pulley bolt wasnt tightened down properly, it torqued on that key too much and actually machined the groove right off the crankshaft, so now he wants my help finding a new crankshaft for one (not that it would be hard for a 22R anyway).