RenaissanceMan

I dont remember its exact location either, it will be in the owners manual tho. but yes it is the fuel cutoff safety switch. all you would need to do to reset it is there will be a button somewhere on the little contraption.... push it....

THis has got to be the coolest thing I have ever seen since I learned how the internal combustion engine works in the first place....

I also agree with that one. I remember talking to a mechanic that had to get the heads surfaced on some subaru engine, and they took off so much that it wouldent idle properly anymore, so they had to find Thicker head gaskets?!, which apparently solved the problem. But anyway, for what you guys are thinking here, to advance the belt timing to compensate, you could also add an obstruction to the belt's path. Like an extra idler pulley that you could bolt down real tight so it wont move.

I agree with that. Infact my car originally came with that exact one (84 EA81 wagon 4wd). There were some models of the EA81 hitachi that have the dual choke diaphram setup. Specifically they had these on 84's when californias smog requirements got tougher. curse this envirnomentally friendly state! :-p If you need parts for it just ask.. got them all over the place..

If you part the RX, I would REALLY like to buy the coil springs from it. Possibly we could work something with the LSD?.. BUT ANYWAY, in all honest opinion, Fixing up the RX would probably be more worth it in the end as far as retaining value.. and RX's just look cooler anyway... and you could use some of the interior parts from the DL, and vents and stuff... heck you could throw the HI-comp pistons in the Turbo engine and have a blast! Since we're talking deals, if you part the DL, I could use a driverside front fender if its in good condition...

Well I today and yesterday I got around to splitting the F/T tranny, so heres some picks for y'all If you want to see the rest of the pix, check out my Gallery, they are the latest ones on the last pages. Gallery

Nothing wrong with it, it was a perfectly good transmission, other than the syncros were on their last legs... infact the fluid in it was probably reusable, I only had the thing for 6 or 9K since I put it in... IF that...

Bah! dang you guys...

actually YES there IS... because the way it works is its 2 sets of gears, thats why low makes so much whining. First you have a set of 1 to 1 gears to a secondary shaft, and then it gears back across to the low floating gear, and thats where the reduction is. when in high it just bypasses straight thru from the input shaft to the rest of the floating gears. Kinda like how "hi" gear is on a normal transmission. SO in theory, you could double up these reduction gears, and get somethin crazy like 2.8 to 1. The only problem is that this would require a 100% custom input shaft, and a 100% secondary Low shaft. but the floating gear and the rest of the tranny would be ok. Funny enough subaru transmissions are nothing like a normal tranny, because Hi gear does not go straight thru, but rather is also a floating bevel gear, just like the rest, because its the counter shaft that drives the ring gear on the differential

WAIT WAIT! thats exactly what I need for my project! san diego is a little far for me to drive, can we work out something for shipping? I am in san luis obispo, zip 93405. Sometimes on big objects like that you dont even have to box them. I could care less if its dented or scratched or whatever, I just need the tailgate.

Wow, guys, I didnt know this was gonna be that popular. First off, I'm not sure about the stubs being interchangable, but, lemmie get the other tranny apart. What I am planning on doing is putting the shorter low gear, and 3.9 diff out of this one into the F/T 4wd one, so I can use it with my Superswampers, and have FT 4wd awesomeness. I am concerned about the pinion gear actually being a part of the secondary shaft. We'll see what I come up with on monday. AS FAR AS AN LSD. does anyone want to sell me one to see if I can do it? When I took apart the tranny, I was suprised to see there is a lot of room around the diffy, so the potential is there. Unfortunately you cant flip the diff like in a volkswagon and get a rear engine subie. I'll send pics of the F/T like a said when I get it apart. Getting parts for these trannies is a SOB btw, you can only get the brass parts from the dealer, and they only sell them individually, not as a kit. As for putting this back together, I am rebuilding it in my manual drivetrain class, if anyone wants like, uber details about how it works, or how to assemble/dissasemble/modefy these transmissions when I am all done, I'll write up a thing for the USRP.

So, I dont know if anyone has ever wondered what these looked like on the inside, but I figured I would post it for anyone that has never taken apart a manual tranny before. This is a 5sp D/R. Sometime next week I'll post pics of what the Full time 4wd tranny looks like.

after you scrape it off, and there is still like, residue on the metal- WD40 works wonders for getting off the renminants

arent you totaly messing up your caster by doing that? and doesnt that also put a strain on the inner control arm bushing?

I'm doin mine right now, and I am about $700 in... its quite expsensive to do it properly. I would recommend going with ITM, because they sell just about everything you need for that engine. Full gasket set, belts, oil pump, bearings, bushings, lifters, you name it... the only thing you cant get from them is valve seats if you need to replace any of them if you have to do any head welding... though you can go with Federal Mogoul for those... after going this far, unless your going all out, or you just want to rebuild it for the knowledge and recreation of it, go with a low milage jap motor.

I got my stuff out of my trusty chilton, and also from what I remember browsing thru the ITM catalog. but I specifically know the mpfi being 9.0:1, where as the carb & spfi being 9.5:1 but remember the mpfi and turbo have the same heads, just different pistons...

I made a bent up one using a piece of rod like that years ago. worked ok... When I was at school last week and I needed to pull one of the wrist pins out that I had already put in (put a ring in upsidedown accidentally) I didnt have that tool on me, so I found this metric alan bolt, where the head slid perfectly down the center of the wrist pin (were talking machine fit) till it hit the notch in the center of the pin. Anyway I took a bench grinder to the head of the bolt and left about 1/4 circle on it, and it worked PERFECTLY.. I was able to attach a slide hammer to it, and get those wrist pins out in a breeze. I also had to taper the top of the head a little bit to get around the retainer clip. My 2 cents

somebody took a VW transporter and stuck it in a shrinking machine?

Ok, heres the scoop on it all I guess, I researched into this too not too long ago when I was looking into new pistons for my ea82T. 76-79 EA71 1590cc 8.5:1 80-82 EA71 1595cc 8.5:1 82-89 EA71 1595cc 9:1 80-89 EA81 1781cc 8.7:1 83-89 EA81T 1781cc 7.7:1 85-94 EA82 1781cc 9.5:1 (carb & spfi) 85-94 EA82 1781cc 9:1 (mpfi) 85-94 EA82T 1781cc 7.7:1 From what I can tell, after looking thru the ITM catalog, is the following: EA71 & EA81 pistons are the same, combustion chamber & stroke are different EA82 N/A pistons are all the same (carb, spfi, and mpfi), however the dual port heads have a different combustion chamber therefore lowering the compression slightly. EA82T and EA81T pistons are different, EA82T having the clearances for the valves so in the end we come up with 4 different types of pistons for engines with this 92mm bore. Flat top Turbo interference Non interference Turbo non interference can anyone correct anything I might have messed up with all that?

Thanks for your input guys. Ya I figure I would leave them off so they wont keep crap IN, and also they would be easily accessable... I figure if I change them every 20K to 25k, no worries... as far as the intake, so the spider manifold gives more high end and drops out the low end? hmm, that wouldent be cool... I'm trying to give this ea82T the most low end possible, any other recommendations outside of a stock block? (I dont want to run 9.5 to 1 compression, I cant get 93 octane here)

Ok ea82T wizards out there... I got 2 simple questions for y'all. I am rebuilding my ea82T to go in my lifted 84 wagon. I have been debating about these two things the last couple days and its gotten to the point where I need to make a decision. Are those POS timing belt covers really necessairy? I remember people saying they run without them no problems whatsoever goin thru mud, water, etc.. can we verify this? I plan to be 4wheelin in this car, and I want to know will I run into any major problems if I leave the covers off? The other question is, does the ea82 xt spider manifold really make a noticable difference over the standard dual port manifold? Remember this is going on a turbo.. Thanks everyone in advance for your help. -Mike

My 84 Wagon goes by "pooparu" these days, cause its been sittin in my driveway for months, and yet somehow all I do is waste money into it. I guess most of the time I just call it "the Subie"

You know, theres something about those EA81 2 door hardtops that really catches my eye. They would make a seriously awesome Pony car. Maybe if someone took an ER27, stuffed it in there and converted it back to carburetor you might get that "Muscle car" feel and sound.

Dude hook me up with those control arm bushings! Trying to press in stock replacement ones is a joke... all you end up with is new control arm bushings that are so messed up looking that you shouldent have messed with them. I'll drop you an email.

A1 Cardone is what my store sells. They are lifetime warranty yes as long as the CV boots are intact (all lifetime cv joints have this for their warranty). I have never had a broken one come back, so they must be doin something right. If you are gonna be heavy 4wheelin or abusing the heck out of them then yes I would recommend you go with new ones, like GCK heavy duty new ones like I got