RenaissanceMan

they thanks a bunch partsman, I will look into those tomorrow

Anyone? *bump*

I recall someone a while back saying they had an oil filter adapter on their subie that allowed them to remotely place a larger oil filter? like a ford or GM style one? Does anyone have a part # on that? I dont care what brand, I can cross reference that. The story goes I am rebuilding an ea82T for my 84 GL, but I want to have an oil to air cooler, along with a remote oil filter setup. Can anyone help? (I tried doing a couple searches and couldent find anything helpfull btw)

Now that I think about it, I dont even know why I bothered emailing him saying that it wasnt a justy.

I once tore apart an EA82, where the cracks between the valves had gotten so bad, that the exhaust valve seat came out, which caused that cylinder to not do anything.. I would do a cylinder leakage test, so you can find out where its coming from. Noise in exhaust -exhaust valve, noise in intake -intake valve, bubbles in radiator -head gasket, noise in crankcase -hole in piston If you dont have a tester for that, a trip to the hardware store, and some creative thinking, and you can probably make one out of a bicycle pump.

Hey, does anyone out there have some diagrams, , bolt patterns, or dimensions for the ring gear, and pinion gear on our rear differentials, 3.7 and 3.9 being pretty much the same right, compared to 4.11 off a legacy? anything would be helpful at this point, maybe something in the FSM that I dont have?

I saw an exact set like that about 2 years ago on an 86 brat at PAP. Didnt think much of them at the time...

When you get behind the wheel of a subaru, it just feels like no other car on the road. Nothing compares, no new car has as nice of a feel and personality as my 20 year old non-power steering, falling apart wagon. Same goes for other subarus I have driven. Truly its indescribable (not to mention the teenager stories I could tell with that wagon )

Thanks Emily... just curious, why would I want to change the exhaust valve? What is different about it? I think I have a pile of them lying around here somewhere anyway from previous engines.. Anyone else have any input?

Hey I got a quick question out there for all you EA82 Guru's, Can I take a MPFI head, and put on the oil passage lines and use it with a turbo with little effort? What all is needed to change over, or am I going to have to drill holes in it or something? The junkyards here seem to have quite a few MPFI engines at the moment, and all the turbo's are crapped out. I figure the mpfi heads probably have had less abuse as well Thanks everyone!

The cut-off year for california smog is a little bit older. Being you dont have to smog it if its '75 or older. Part of it depends on who you take it to, to get it smogged. Last time I had mine smogged it had the glasspack on it, and they didnt seem to care, nor they didnt seem to care that I had removed the air conditioning belt. However the first time I got it smogged elsewhere they made me install a coolant overflow tank, even though the car never came with one out of the factory.

hmm, almost sounds like a sticking float valve or something... or dirty fuel filters, (haha)

if only my subaru had 4 wheels on the ground I would be there in a flash... but its a little difficult to get around with the entire front suspension removed from the vehicle, and I can tell you from experience, offroading on a honda shadow is a joke.. not that I would have attepted this on a cruser bike or anything... ...on purpose...

Hey I'm easy going. I ran into the same trouble a few years back with my 84 wagon that didnt want to pass smog right after I rebuilt the whole engine. It turned out to be the catalytic in combination with the egr valve, and some hoses routed wrong. If your looking for parts, I have a whole mess of them like everyone else on the board, and there are a couple older ru's down at the junkyards. If your in need of some subaru mechanical help, seriously, drop me an email. renaissanceman132@go.com

Drive it up here and I'll do it for free, I am in San Luis Obispo.. the one under the car btw, is somewhat hidden... the fuel pump and filter are mounted on a triangular panel, and all you can see is the panel. If you follow the fuel line where it comes out of the gas tank you will find the assembly inline.. the one under the hood is usually pretty odvious it just as well might have been bypassed by someone. But there could be something about the older DL models that I dont know yet too...

One is located near the brake booster/master cylinder.. the other one is right inline with the fuel pump underneath the car infront of the gas tank on the passenger side

Sven, this is what I did for the bypass hose, it is far back enough that it doesnt hit the radiator fan or anything...

Guess not, my bad

Hey hows it goin! I've been wondering whatever happened to that Turbo wagon I drove down there! Is it in good hands now? Did all that registration get figured out? My old alias was alpha0001 to jog your memory; drop me an email. Anyway, I am almost in SoCal, -San Luis Obispo, CA.... but my subi right now is an offroading piece of work in the making.

despite how long this has been argued for, I think one point has been overlooked. Carbureted, vs computer carb, vs fuel injection. As stated, octane is a cumbustion supressant... aka - it combusts at a hotter temperature. Now, back in the day, all that controlled the fuel was the carburetor itself. Whatever came out the exhaust had no affect on what the carb put in. So, theoretically, a slower burning fuel would leave deposits in the engine and lack some performace from an incomplete burn. *HOWEVER:* Technology has introduced the "oxygen sensor" which my 84 wagon is equiped with of course. The computer is now able to read what the exhaust output is. -Lets throw some scenarios out there: Using a higher octane, the computer will notice the exhaust is rich, from unburnt fuel, and will lean out the fuel mixture, by adding a couple controlled air leaks to the intake manifold, The leaner mixture increases the combustion chamber mixture, therefore allowing a complete burn. The computer "programs" itself to memory and remembers the ideal mixture for the norm of the car. Using a lower octane, and running a lean mixture, the computer will sense the exhaust contains too much oxygen because it was never all used, and close up the air leaks, run richer, cool down the combustion *FURTHER* so now everything is fuel injected, along with increased performance and economy, the "knock sensor" was added. Working in conjunction with the oxy sensor, and temperature sensors, air flow sensors, etc etc... THe knock sensor tells the computer when the engine is pre-igniting from being too lean. Overall it can get extremely accurate in getting the right mixture. Anyway, point being, if your engine cannot automatically adjust the mixture, then yes there will be problems with performance, and increased deposits, but it STILL WILL BE COOLER. With modern engines (computer carb and up) the higher octane can be used In my 84 EA81 manual, it specifically states "engine designed for use of 90 octane or above" I suspect this could be because of at the time the engine was produced, this was considered to be high compression -8.5:1 is it? Designing the engine for torque meant keeping the advance low, only 8 degrees, at this low of an advace the pre-igniting was a problem... *IF* you advance your timing, you will lose some low end, but can get away with a lower octane, in some cases. However advancing will also increase engine temperature, so there are limitations and exceptions to this. If you look at the timing for a lot of more recent engines, its much further advanced, allowing a higher compression, with less octane, because cooling is more efficient. Someone quoted that their explorer should only run on a maximum of 87 octane... well if the pulse width modulation for the injectors can only go so low, then trying to give the engine less fuel wont happen, and yes your engine will get dirty because of it. My honda VT1100 looses all kinds of lower end on a lower octane, and on a 2 cylinder torque monster like that, trust me, you can feel the difference. In the summer I could probably get away with lower octane, but in the winter, its cold enough here (yeah yeah california I know), that to keep the engine running decently I need to use the higher octane just to keep the engine warmed up to a decent operating temperature, but now I am getting off topic. I always use 91 in my subaru, and anything less and it runs like *#&@!

Its light enough that when your under the car yanking on it, and then it slides out and falls on you, that it doesnt break anything, but its heavy enough that it hurts. One time at the junkyard the shifter arm came fractions of an inch from taking out my eye. To say the least, its just smarter all around to put a jack under it when you're taking it out. I remember one time I had a problem like that where the bellhousing was corroded shut to the transmission, because of those two little alignment dowels. After enough persuasion it came free.

Fair enough, I dont own an EA82 anyway, and the only ones I have really worked on have been EA82T's all from 87-90... thanks for explaining what a ignition amplifier is tho. with the EA81, the pickup goes right to the coil, and I had assumed that why would they change it for EA82... infact, now that i think about it, I recall that little transistor thingy... DOH!!

ok, that wasnt supposed to end up as a new thread... dangit... oh well... anyway, I was refering to snotrockets pilot bearing removal trick.. speaking of other tricks... anyone else have any good tricks like that? I know I have done some crazy things with nylon rope and knots, to hold stuff in place, like tying a timber hitch around a torque convertor, and then tying it to a board that the engine was sitting on top off, to brace it while getting the crank pulley bolt off (this was a non subaru engine)

I just had to mention that that is one of the most ingenius mechanical tricks I have ever heard... it.... makes so much sense... with the grease, and the bearing... and the dowel...

partsamerica.com says its 9004