RenaissanceMan

I have been addressing this oil pump issue for a long time on these motors... My newest idea is to make an external oil pump from a flat four subaru engine. (some severe fabricating/machine work) to get your OEM justy oil pump, the only place I know of that has the parts is http://www.1stsubaruparts.com -Mike

Count me in too on that plan, I'll have to meet up with you guys somewhere. Hopefully I can get my Justy ready for the show, cause thats the one I want to take. -Mike

Um......yeah..... thats gotta be one of the most screwed up things I have ever seen on 2 wheels. Wow. (BUT I LOVE IT!)

I had a similar issure with this on my brat at the dunes when my radiator blew up... turns out the heat screwed up my points, or my theory is that the steam washed the grease off the lobe follower... POINT BEING (haha) take the distributor cap off and be sure the points are opening and closing. I think its like a 22mm socket for the crank pulley, (or a crescent wrench), and stick a matchbook in there... or some thin piece of cardboard... or a feeler guage, or something, and solve the problem if they are not opening. Seriously this sounds bizzare, and I dont know what was up, but check it. My brat died EXACTLY as how you describe it, and had the exact same no-start once I tried firing it up again after it died. -Mike

Put me down for 2.. Does anyone know if these will fit my 77 stage 1 wagon??? -Mike

For some reason subaru motors have a really tough cylinder wall. I actually have yet to pull apart a subaru motor that I COULDENT see the factory crosshatch in the cylinder walls. everything from 100K to 300K motors -Mike

It can lead to such things as automatic floor ventilation, and "speed holes" in the fenders and quarters. The proper method of containing this problem is as follows: 1.Thoroughly wash surface. 2.Sand area with 220 grit on a DA. 3.Observe how far the oxidation has spread. 4.Get Discouraged. 5.Liberally apply layers of 2 inch wide silver duct tape, with a 1/2 inch of overlap (*note* On 4wd vehicles you will achieve better results using camoflauge printed duct tape) 6. Let material set for several weeks so the repair has thoroughly adhered itself to the substrate preventing any hope of ever removing it in the future. *Submitted by a victim of rust*

Last year I was there in a 78 brat that cost me $75, and made it from San Luis obispo, CA to the Oregon Dunes, to the top of Mt. Baker, WA, trailriding at the show in Shelton, and back down the california redwoods coast. That piece o junk is still running believe it or not, sand in engine and all...

Hey Jerry, I have looked into a lot of this already, The EA71 and EA81's have different bolt patterns on the crank. The ea71 is smaller fo sho. Also you will have to remachine the step on the ea81 flywheel for the ea82 disc, but thats not as big of a deal -Mike

Yes you can if you get the right one. There is a writeup on how to do it in the USRM. Most importantly, unless you dont mind designing linear circuits like me, you need a stand-alone setup that they had on the earlier ea82's (aka, you look in the distributor, and its got the magnet pickup thingy, and wires going to the other block lookin thing on the other side of the distributor...) Basically one without the ignition amplifier module next to the coil.. -Mike

Bellhousing is the easy part... thats what the "fat case" ea71 is all about... its the flywheel/clutch thats the hard part... -Mike

So has anyone here bolted up an EA71 "fat case" to a d/r 4wd 5sp tranny? If not I think I figured out the recipe to do so. Unfortunately I cant tell you till the parts get here, but I will let you guys know if it works. Any input? -Mike

Good god what kind of sadistic creature from hell will that be when you get it running?? putting a modified 6 cylinder engine that came stock as 227HP into a car that came with a 73 hp 3 cyl.... hmm... Thats gonna be like putting a drag boat engine on a ride-on mower... Might I recommend putting about 200 lbs of sand bags in the front where the engine used to be, or get some nice wheelie bars for it.. goin down the track you WILL be counting the stars. in short... I LIKE IT!!!!!! -Mike

thats pretty sick, but what is fully motorized on it? like it moves with batteries?

I'm workin on the whole Baja 1000 thing.. my friends AMC eagle is about halfway lifted, and my brat is next.. -Mike

Ok, so I did some thinking and removed the trademark infringements, and simplified it a little bit. Tell me what you guys think of this version:

well seeing as I am not doing anything at work, I quickly scetched this up in MS paint.. any thoughts?

The issue you are having with your rear disc brakes is the combination valve that your subaru came with. when using rear drum, and front disk, your vehicle requires 2 types of valves. The rears (drum) get a proportioning valve that limits the pressure to the rear to a lot less than what disc brakes require. The front disk brakes get a metering valve (sometimes), that delays the pressure to the front wheels. The idea behind that is that the drum brakes just take a tiny bit longer to actuate because they have return springs. You want the rears to apply fractionally first, to keep the rear end behind ya.. long story short... you need to remove that combination valve and connect that mess of brake lines right there so they are split diagonally. You should then feel the actual full force of using rear disc brakes. NOTE: apparently modern research has show that using rear drum brakes actually work better than rear disc brakes for heavy truck vehicles (heavy truck meaning 1/2 ton). For lighter vehicles that are more front weight biased tho, 4 wheel disc is the way to go. (such as our tinker toy subarus) -Mike (just thought I would throw a little info out there, no real thoughts either way)

Hey guys, just wanted to let you know that I just posted in the WCSS8 thread just now. Count me in 100% It turns out that this is the time that I will be moving up to washington possibly too, so I'll probably have a convoy of my own.. I'll be coming up from San Luis Obispo, so anyone I can meet up with along the way is a go. -Mike

California Crew: Just so you all know, count me in again this year FO SHO!!! I'll be coming up from San Luis Obispo, so anyone who wants to meet me on my way I'm down. Depending on if we get it finished or not, I might persuade my friend to come along with in his AMC eagle, not a subaru but you guys will get a kick out of it, trust me... -Mike

all you people and your crude mechanical methods... go down to kragens and buy a 5 gallon bucket of berryman's carb cleaner parts dip.. let the oil pan sit in it overnight, in the morning remove and ask yourself, where did the gasket go? Where did the PAINT go? TA DA!!! (please wear gloves with this product, and thoroghly rinse after dip) If you dont wanna buy one of those, then If I recall brushing on the good ol jasco paint remover gel stuff will eat that gasket right off of there too... -Mike

CLICK ME Heres a link to what I was taking about with the CIS that Noah put on his car. You might find it very interesting -Mike

OK now for a serious post... a while back someone on the board adapted an early CIS-E system for their EA82 and apparently it worked great once it got all squared away. I was thinking this would be the perfect system for a justy cause that one extra "4th" cylinder output you simply plug off.. (or add it to your wet NOS system ) If you can find a good donor car, like a mid 80's scirocco, or FOX or something... just grab everything and the fuel pump, shouldent cost you more than 100 bucks when you get everything adapted, to adjust the basic open loop mixture, all you do is turn a screw on the flow meter thingy... -Mike

TROY YOU ARE MY HERO! ROFLMAO

I was looking into that AC compressor Idea too actually for having an onboard compressor.. You can go ahead and use them up to 150 PSI no problem, I was trying to figure how to make a mineral oil drip system tho, so you dont burn it up. -Mike