john in KY

Bought a used one a few years ago. Drove it hard and put 100k more miles on it. Sold it and it ran for another 2 years before the new owner's grandchildren tore out the front differential. Never had a HG failure. And the boost was turned up to 14 pounds. IMO this engine fails when the radiator gets old.

The transmission will not shift in any gear when the front pump is damaged. Also if you remove either line to the radiator, there will be no flow.

Hub splines damaged or maybe that beveled washer was installed backwards?

Start at the fusible links. Verify power to the links and then through each link. Then move up to the fuse panel. Verify current flow through all the fuses. Some will be hot with key OFF and others with key in ACC position. I don't understand how you can have current at the ign sw with the key in the OFF position and no curent with key in the ON position.

Remove the radio and check the dash wiring harness with a multimeter. One wire should be hot with key off. This is the radio's memory wire. Another wire should be hot with the key in the ACC position. This wire turns the radio on and off. A third wire should be hot when the headlights are turned on. This is the illum wire. If all three wires have current flow then there is a problem with the radio or the wires are wired wrong.

The key here the donor car was a GL-10 TURBO. Subaru didn't use the 3-speed in the 88 and 89 GL-10 TURBOS. My old 90 Loyale with TURBO, last year for the turbo, had the 4EAT.

Bought the engine and transmission from either an 88 or 89 XT years ago and it was the FWD 4EAT. My 88 XT6 also has the FWD version.

Just have to put out there my dealer horror story. Event took place about 15 years ago and the car was an 88 Chrysler 5th Avenue. I was in Alaska and the wife in KY. She called to tell me she thought something was wrong with the transmission. I strongly advised her to not take it to the local Chrysler dealership but she insisted mainly because she and her family members always bought Mopar cars and trusted dealerships. Car was taken to the dealer and told to "just inspect and tell me what is wrong so I can then tell my husband". Wife was told the transmission needed rebuilt. Wife said I'll get back with you and the dealer said "how do you plan to get home because the transmission is now out of the car and in a million pieces?". Wife didn't know what to do so rented a car and authorized the repair even though no one had told her the transmission was coming out of the car. Wife drove the car for 2-3 months and then left the car in KY and joined me in AK for a year. We both returned 12 months later and I noticed the car had an oil leak under it. (Car was stored on a car port). Looked under the car, saw ATF had leaked from the speedometer cable where the dealer had slapped a gob of blue RTV. Transmission was covered with road grim and grease. Obvious to me it was an $100 junkyard transmission, not a dealer rebuild. Transmission lasted 4 months and then failed. No recourse because the 12 month warrenty had expired even though the car was stored for 12 months. Did I mention the dealer charged the wife $2300? Result: I replaced the transmission myself and sold the car. No one in my or the wife's family has owned a Chrysler product since this reaming and i can state with absolutely certainty neither the wife or I will ever buy another Chrysler product. Real shame because we both preferred Chrysler products all of our lives but we just can't put that dealership experience behind us. Note to Ford, GM and Chrysler: This is how you lose a buyer for life. Makes no difference if your product is good or bad when the dealership screws over the buyer.

Did you really torque that puppy down? Has to be grounded through the body to function. Just a wag.

Sterling is an English car.

I was thinking about trying to use an ignition module from an early GM car. I have seen it done on many rotaries, probes and mx6's. Has anyone tried this? I'm not sure if the signal from the ecu will drive it. On the rotary it gets the signal directly from the magnet in the disty. Any thoughts? Nice ignition upgrade but it won't work on a Subaru. Requires a magnetic pick-up type distributor.

It's junk now.

Just looked at an 88 FSM, MPFI but not turbo. Don't know if it is the same but who knows. The dropping resistor has 5 wires. The RED wire is the 12 volt feed wire. The other 4 wires go to the individual injectors. Dropping resistor resistance should fall between 5.8 and 6.5 ohms. Check the 4 wires going to the injectors. Use a stethoscope to test the injectors. If working you will hear a very audible clicking. The injectors also receive 12 volts. (Another test.) Back at the ECU, look for a pair of WHITE wires and a pair of WHITE w/Blue stripe. Pin numbers are 49 and 50 for the white pair and 51 and 52 for the other pair. These are the wires from the injectors. Looking for no less than 10 volts. The dropping resistor is also fused. Doubt if the fuse is the problem but won't hurt to check. Forgot to note which fuse it is. In an early post you stated something tested at 1 or 2 volts. This can't be. Nothing on this car will work at such low voltages.

Leaving for work but had a thought while shaving. The dropping resistor, if you have one, should be mounted on the passenger-side strut tower. My thought while shaving was to focus on the dropping resistor. I would think it will have 4 wires, 2 from the ECU and 2 going to the paired injectors. If the ECU side wires check out (Voltage test) then that will tell you just about everything upstream of the dropping resistor is good. Then check the injector wires for continuity. Also check the resistor itself. Edit: This is what I get for shaving and thinking. Cut myself and got it wrong. Dropping resistor has 5 wires. One is the 12 volt feed wire and the other 4 go to the individual injectors. It is possible 1/2 of the resistor has failed.

the injectors are batched fired. Don't offhand know if the front 2 cylinders are a pair but check the plug wires at the distributor. If the front 2 cylinders are directly across from each other then they are a pair. good chance there could be a short in the engine wiring harness. Somewhere in the wiring harness the individual wires from the paired injectors join and become one wire. Hopefully this happens in the engine harness. Identify the wires for the injectors and then unplug the engine harness and check for voltage on the car side of the harness. Offhand I think the CAS in the distributor has something to do with the injectors firing. Don't know if this year used a dropping resistor but that is something else to check. I'll look at the FSM tonight and get back with you.

I remember seeing saw mill engines many years ago that were started on gasoline and then switched to kerosine when up to operating temperature. These engines then ran literally all day without any problems.

Anyone know if a driveshaft from a 90 Legacy will interchange with a 98 model? Asking because a local lady needs a driveshaft for her 98 Legacy. I know where I can get the driveshaft from a 90 LS wagon. Gotten just too cold to be pulling driveshafts in the mud just to see if it fits.

The last set of Gabriel struts I bought for a Subaru ended up in the trash. When I went to tighten that top nut the stud just twisted off. The nut wasn't even close to being tight. Maybe I just got a bad strut but I figured if the quality of the material used was that poor, the hell with ever using that brand again.

Check the belt tensoiners. Don't know if they use ball or roller bearings but what the heck.

2WD rear struts are longer than the AWD struts. Gabriel made good stuff many years ago. Not true today. If you gave me a set of Gabriel struts, I would give them back.

Back in the late 70s I lived in VA and had a 69 Austin American (English FWD) with clicking CV joints. Didn't at the time know anything about CV axles and just thought it was normal. Drove the car for several years around VA. Made numerous trips to Ohio. One trip to Chicago and another from VA to LA and back. When I finally scrapped the car it still had the original clicking axles.

I would. Check the ECU in the trunk for any stored trouble codes. Remove the air intake hose and see if the engine will fire with a small shot of starting fluid. Possibility one or both timing belts are on the verge of breaking and the timing as changed as a result. Does the fuel pump work? Blown fuse maybe? The XT6 is really not that complicated once you get involved with them. I have never seen an LSD in an XT6.

I think your problem is the seals in the turbo are failing.

Why not just remove the O2 bung from the original pipe, drill a hole in the new pipe and then weld the bung onto the new pipe. I've done this several times.