john in KY

The Xt was offered in 3 trim packages. The base model was the DL. Guess it was fairly rare as I have only seen one. The middle trim package is what you have, the GL. Top of the line was the GL-10. Visit http://www.xt6.net

Not only do all the radios fit, even the radio wiring harness plug is the same.

My guess is the timing belt broke.

Have you spilled any drinks around the shifter over the years? There are switches down there that will cause this condition when they get "gummed up".

I have a 95 legacy LS wagon . Recently acquired some low-mileage 98 GT wagon front and rear struts, also the coil springs. Are the GT and non GT struts the same or different? Are the 95 and 98 GT coil springs the same diameter? Heard rumours the GT struts require a different upper spring perch. Just too lazy at the moment to remove the struts now on the car and compare.

Wonder if you forgot to install that washer above the spring hat? Really sounds like there is "play" somewhere. Had the same sound years ago when I had rear struts installed in a GM product. Ride was so bad I started looking and noticed a thick rubber bushing on both struts was not installed.

kingbobdole lives in CO and has a complete engine for sale on ebay.

Everything under the hood may be working just fine. Problem could be in the dash. Thinking doors or baffles or whatever they are called aren't opening. Just to get a feel, check the hoses in a friend's car. One compressor hose will be very hot to your touch and the other very cold. If your hoses feel about the same, then the problem is not under the hood. It sounds to me like the dealer is throwing parts, very expensive parts, at the problem. I don't work on AC but anyone that does should be able to quickly pinpoint the problem.

The AC compressor can be unbolted from the engine and set over on the side of the engine bay. No need to break the lines.

Battery terminals loose/corroded? Guess you could have blown the fusible links in the small box close to the battery.

The wheel size is cast into the rim of the wheel. Should be something like 15JJ. 15JJ means it is a 15 inch wheel.

Easy enough to determine when the original bearing is pressed out. If it "falls" out then replace the hub. If it presses out hard then the hub is good.

The flapper AFM was only used on the 85 and 86 models. Since you have this AFM won't it be easier just to find an 85/86 intake, distributor and ECU? You could also go the other way, toss the flapper AFM and find an 87 or newer intake, AFM, distributor and ECU. You can't make an 87 or newer ECU work with the 85/86 stuff. You have either an 85 or 86 engine/intake/sensors. The AFM is also either an 85 or 86. This is good. But you don't know which year distributor and ECU you have. This is bad. Again, you just can't mix 85/86 stuff and 87 and newer stuff. A Subaru dealer or a wrecking yard should be able to tell you what year ECU you have. Probably could do the same with the distributor. Both have part numbers. Once you have all the parts either 85/86 or newer than you really need the FSM wiring diagram. A 87 or newer wiring diagram will do you no good if working with 85/86 components.

GL10 seats are more comfortable imo. The XT6 seats will sit much lower if installed in the GL10. Guess the seat brakets can be swapped.

Clean the throttle body and all its passages, the IAC and all the engine wiring harness connectors. If nothing improves think about having the injectors professionally cleaned. Visit http://www.xt6.net for more ideas.

i may help with the fuel lines. Fuel flows from the filter, through the hard lines, feeds all the injectors, and then to the FPR. That hard line on the FPR is the return line. The return line to the tank can probably be identified using compressed air. Manufacturing your own harness is not the way to go. I know the 85/86 engine harnesses are vastly different from the 87 and newer. Been also told a JDM is unique to a JDM engine. The ECU also has to "match" the vintage of the engine. 85 and 86 turbo engines used one ECU and newer models used something totally different. You seem to have a mismatch of parts. First need to determine what year engine/intake you have and ditto for the ECU. Once you know the intake sensors and air flow meter and ECU "match", then just buy a used stock wiring harness.

No. We have no idea the ECU is receiving a distributor signal. Don't know how to check for that. Just assumed it was because as mentioned earlier, the engine will run if fuel is manually added.

Fairly sure I know where I can get a printout of the wiring diagram this weekend. I don't know what else to check other than checking for breaks/shorts in the wiring harness. If we ever solve this problem, I'll post the solution here. Thanks for all the advice.

This is what my friend and I have learned/discovered. All 4 injectors are getting 12 volts. All injectors when tested with a meter showed 2.7 ohms. Injectors will "fire"/click when grounded. Engine starts when fuel is added to intake. Fuel pump checked and is working. Fuel lines between filter and FPR were installed backwards. Fuel lines corrected. ECU swapped with a known good one. All engine ground wires are connected. Injectors still will not fire when the engine is cranked. I'm just about out of things to check. Maybe there is a short in the engine to ECU wiring harness. Almost forgot. Checked the ECU for troubnle codes. Only had one. 12 or 14. Can't recall which but it indicated ignition switch. Any more suggestions for things to check will be greatly appreciated.

Please bear with me. I think I undrstand some of this. The injector doesn't even have to be installed. If you apply 12 volts to one side you will see 12 volts on the other side only because the test equipment has completed the ground-side of the circuit. Is it correct the injectors fire because the ECU completes the circuit and then breaks it? Which "side" of the circuit is broken? I'm thinking it is the ground side. If I'm right about this, does the ECU have to grounded or is one of the pinouts a ground? What tells the ECU to fire the injectors? Is it a signal from the distributor?

The 85 didn't use a dropping resistor. Is it true both sides of the injectors have 12 volts? Somehow that just seems wrong. Asking because a friend currently has the exact same problem after doing an engine transplant in an 85 GL10. He has 12 volts only on one side. When the other side is grounded, that injector will fire one time.

I ran 15 inch wheels with 65 series tires for 4 years with no problems. Car was a 90 Loyale AWD.

did you plug the vacuum line that originally went from the intake manifold to the transmission modulator?

The timing belts timing marks are located on the flywheel. I don't see how they cannot be there. Rotate the engine a full revolution. You will be looking for 3 closely spaced scribe marks. No numbers or ATDC/BTDC...just 3 lines. But if they aren't there, then the circumference of the flywheel had to have been machined for some unknown reason. Save yourself a ton of grief and find another flywheel.