john in KY

Probably the vacuum fitting for the vacuum modulator, which you don't have.

Put the transmission in 3ed or 4th gears. Depress the brake pedal and release the clutch. Clutch is good if the engine stalls.

Subaru fusible links are also color-coded. For example red = a certain diameter. And wire diameter size equates to a certain amperage. Offhand I don't recall the sizes but I think they can be found in the FSM. You could always just measure the wire diameter of the link you are replacing and just replace it with the same diiameter link.

Boat supply businesses will have everything. Check out http://www.genuinedealZ.com first. Other sites I have used are: http://www.wiringproducts.com, http://www.westmarine.com, http://www.wiringproducts.com (if you use these guys be prepared for a long wait. always got what i ordered but several weeks of waiting not uncommon ), and http://www.fastenerhut.com. If you want to upgrade the battery i would go with a dual terminal Optima battery as long as I am plugging companies/brands. I also used the style of battery cable terminal that has an additional threaded stud. I used the stud to mount the alternator charge wire and glow plug feed wire.

Just made a set for a dual-battery system for my tractor. There are 2 basic types of solder. One works for this application and the other doesn't. Can't recall the 2 types at the moment. What I did was mount the copper lug in a vise and then used a propane torch to fill the lug with molten solder. Then just push the cable into the lug. Use only 3M shrink wrap tubing if you want to prevent future corrosion problems. The other brands I have used are not up to the 3M quality standard. A cable cutter really makes cutting the cable easy. Hacksaw really makes a mess.

It's the joint. Could and probably well last for 10K or more miles but when it fails it is a catastrophic failure.

You can split that nut with a good sharp chisel and a 3 lb hammer. Takes about 10 whacks.

Loose hose clamp?

I hope you know the transmission input shaft will almost certainly pull free when the transmission is pulled. This is to be expected. The problem is reinstalling it. Get it wrong and it's "where do i find another transmission time?".

Don't worry about it. Every turbo/digital dash I have owned did the same thing.

Verify the distributor rotor turns when the engine is cranked. No rotatation means a broken timing belt.

The reason the temp gauge goes up and down is there are air pockets moving through the system. When an air pocket hits the temp probe the needle drops. Then superheated coolant moves under the probe and the needle shots up. If this was my problem I would just bit the bullet and pull both cylinder heads to see exactly what is the problem. Very good chance the problem is a warped head or leaking gasket because the methhead didn't properly torque the head bolts. Didn't you earlier state the engine seemingly ran fine when you first bought the car? If true then this would point to a HG failure. If the air control valve and MAF are the same, PM me your address and I'll mail you an extra one I have.

What about that vacuum line from the manifold that runs to the modulator?

I honestly don't know. I have 2 XT6s that I tinker with and just assummed the trouble code retrival process for the XT6 and 1st generation Legacy was the same.

TCU = transmission control unit. The CEL doesn't flash. Find the ECU, which should be very near the test connectors, and then find that little "window". this is where the flashes occur. Don't know about the black connector but on older models I always used the green connector with the key in the ON position.

Even though the guy who replaced the head gasket was described to us a meth head, the compression check argues that compression blow by does not seem to be the problem. That said, I do notice that even when the thing does not run, the radiator becomes pressurized and can push by a new 13 psi radiator cap. Is that normal? If the cap is off, obviously coolant shots straight up. Not mormal to me. Really sounds like compression is entering the coolant system somewhere. Don't know about the first gen Legacys but in older models the LED is always part of the ECU. Just a small "window" about the size of a pencil erarser.

How about a compression test? Any chance the intake manifold could be leaking at the gaskets?

Mine was shipped on just a pallet. Nothing fancy. Bought a couple more transmissions over the years from wrecking yards. They also arrived on pallets. If a business can ship the shipping costs goes way down. Can't remember the shipping company but American Freight for some reason sounds right. Things get shipped everyday without a problem. It was just my bad luck I went with a terrible company.

Need to remove the center console. Look for hidden screws both sides of the console. Screws are hidden behind one inch square plugs. remove the trip computor by finding that plug to the left of it. Then pull radio. Don't touch the bezel. Reomve steering coulumn and then the dash panel. The dash has bolts at either end and a row along the windshield...more plugs to be found/removed. Couple of bolts down around the floor hump. May as well take out the front seats. Don't worry about the wiring. It is idiot proof. Only real problem is you will overlook plugging something back in. Once you locate all those plugs with the screws/bolts behind them you are home free. Figure about 4 hours the first time to pull the dash.

Had an XT6 transmission shipped from CA to KY about 5 years ago. Recall it cost $250. Months after it arrived and the shipping paid the freight company sent me another bill for something like $150, stating the reason was "an initial error in their shipping cost estimate." I had to pay that amount because I used a friend's business address to get the lower rate and the shipping company was about to turn the account over to a collection agency against him. My one and only and last shipping experience. Never again.

Are 2.2 and 2.5 flywheels interchangable?

Just a wag but my guess is a bad alternator. Could just disconnect the heavy wire from the alternator overnight and then see if anything changed. There are 4 or 5 fusible links. Each protects a circuit. Since you have checked the fuses this means this main circuit, the one that feeds the fuse panel, is not the problem. Offhand I don't know what circuits the remaining links protect but just guessing i would venture the alternator, steering motor and whatever. Once you have identified what circuit the problem link is protecting you can then zero in on the problem component. Still believe you will find the alternator to be the problem.

Perfectly normal for that shaft to come out. It will all go back togather but you have to have patience. Keep trying until everthing lines up. Don't use a hammer and don't use the bellhousing bolts to "pull it togather". Use force and you will break the internal pump and then you are up the river. Once you have it all seated use a section of wire across the TC to preent it from moving forward when installing the transmission.

You may have another problem. It should not take ages for even a cracked strut to inflate. Just as a test, swap the front solenoids side to side. If nothing changes then it is a safe bet the compressor is on its last legs. If the left side deflates overnight then replace the solenoid.

If it has a turbo and the 4EAT transmission it has to be an 87.5 model, which is super rare. The intake alone would be worth the asking price. edit: Once had an 89 FWD XT with the 4EAT and a 90 turbo Loyale with the same transmission.