john in KY

I'd take the RS wheels since I have a set on my XT6 and think they are the best looking wheel out there.

I just noticed the engine is a JDM. The JDM engine's wiring harness will not work. If you used the JDM intake manifold and wiring harness, that is a reason for the no-start problem. What do you mean by "MSD ignition"? Does this mean a MSD coil? I would replace it with a stock coil just to eliminate it as a possibility. Probably none of my business but I used to live in the Youngstown area and just wondered where this new job is located? Alaska? Central America?

You are getting hosed on this deal. If you truly do need a new coil and ignitor, $10 to $15 spent for a used one would get you on the road. Learned from experience the coil will not fire if the ignitor is not well grounded to the body.

From your description it sounds like all 4 struts go down. If this is true then it means all 4 struts have a slow leak or the air lines between the front struts are leaking or all 4 strut solenoids are leaking or some combination of the aforementioned. This is very unlikely. The compressor is designed/wired to kick in even if there is no key in the ignition. The only way the compressor and solenoids can be taken offline is to disconnect the battery. This is why I suggested in a previous posting to disconnect the battery and let the car sit for a couple of days. If you do this test and the struts stay inflated you then know there is no leakage in the system. If one or more struts deflate but not all you now know those struts have a leakage problem. I suspect if you do this none of the struts will deflate. This means tank solenoid or control unit problems most likely. Attempting to diagnose the problem without the FSM will be very difficult. If the system stays up with the battery disconnected I would just disconnect the battery whenever you planned on not using the car for a few days.

Classic problem. The TC is not fully seated. The problem is that small splined shaft inside the input shaft is hanging up inside the transmission. You just have to wiggle and turn it until it slides all the way in. This can take hours. If you have already torqued the bellhousing bolts during the installation, thinking the transmission would "jump" that last 1/4" , the transmission is probably now junk.

[quote Can I replace the speed sensor module on the outside of the transmission Yes. It just screws out. New one costs about $150.

Doesn't sound like it is. Here in the States Subaru placed a sticker under the bonnet stating the vehicle is OBDII compliant.

Could be the proportioning valve if this car has rear drum brakes.

There should be a key code on the passenger door lock.

The input shaft is hollow. Inside it there is a solid shaft that often comes out when the TC is removed. When you install the transmission it must fully seat against the bellhousing. If it seems to hang up 1/4" from the bellhousing...STOP. That solid shaft is not fully engaged and if you proceed to tighten the bolts all you will do is bust the internal oil pump. Be forewarned getting that solid shaft to fully engage whatever it engages inside the transmission can be a real PITA.

When the OD of one pipe equals the ID of a second pipe. For example a 2" pipe (OD) will just fit into a 2 1/8" diameter pipe because it has a 2" ID.

Take the control arm somewhere that has a press and have the joint pressed out. Much cheaper than replacing the entire assembly.

I think that second plug is for the factory amp. I installed one of these radios in my XT6, didn't use the second plug, and everything works just fine. I think you may have a problem with the radio.

One end does have an accessible snap ring. The other end has an internal snap ring. Whack that end with a brass hammer and she'll come off. Really don't need aa vice.

The lighter is held in place by a "nut" on the backside. Often it can be loosen with just your hand.

I would check for spark at the plugs and also check for fuel flow at the injectors. You'll probably discover you don't have one or both.

I would just replace the entire radio with another from ebay eg.

Fairly sure the TC lockup function is controlled by a solenoid. Offhand don't recall which one. But the good news is all the solenoids aren't difficult to fet to after the pan is removed.

A TPS not functioning properly will create the problem you have. The TPS could be out of adjustment, the wiring harness could have corrosion, or the TPS could be junk.

Use a guage to learn the true oil pressure.

The Outback has higher ground clearance compared to the LS. I think the Outback struts are a tad longer but should interchange,

The heater dosen't work because there is an air pocket in the coolant system.

1988. XT and GL10 got it. The last GL/Loyale model to use it was the 90 Loyale with turbo. The XT6 always had the 4 EAT.

It has been my experience the starter solenoid is not getting enough amps, not volts, to energize. Not enough amps because there is too much resistance somehere in the circuit. What I have done is to just install another relay under the hood. One side of the relay connects directly to the battery and the other to the starter solenoid. The original solenoid wire is then used to trigger the new relay. Takes about 30" to install and has worked every time for me.