john in KY

Axle splines are different. but will work with an axle swap.

For automatics you are stuck with 85/86/and the early 87 models. Newer XTs went to the 4 speed. Good news is there is a low mileage turbo auto on ebay right now.

Replacing the calipers is easy stuff if not rusted to death. Hardess part should be bleeding the brakes when done. May want to consider new pads and rotors and make it a done deal.

Lots of GL-10 turbo wagons had the LSD option. Just start looking under any GL-10 model and you'll eventually find one.

Good idea not to push the pedal all the way to the floor when bleeding as then there is a chance of blowing the seals in the MC. I just use my other foot as a stop between the pedal and floorboard. I also just use a big screwdriver as a pry bar to compress the piston. Just leave the pad in place and crack the bleeder valve.

Look at the rear diff. If LSD it will have a metal tag stating this. Or just jack up the rear and turn one wheel. If the other wheel turns in the same direction then it has the LSD. You are correct about the ratios.

Just a guess but bet the difference is in the differential stubby shafts. In other words your CV axles don't fit this other transaxle.

[quoteI have a 31 year old truck that's almost brand new have to regap the points, Just curious but what manufacturer still used points in 1976?

Have a set of sensors from some turbo hubs I bought a few years ago. Wish I had known you were needing some. Can't visualize where the sensors are located but bet if you just pulled the complete hub that sheared bolt could be easily gotten to.

[quote name=NuclearBacon perhaps sodium filled valves, something like that. QUOTE] Never happen. Ford used them in the hi-po 427 and Super Duty trucks back in the 60s.

All the EA82T engines basically take the same radiator. Turbo gets the 2 core radiator and everything else got the single core. As far as I know there was 2 "turbo" radiators and the only difference was the width. Auto/AWD/FWD/manual transmission...done of that makes any difference.

Don't know about that but thinking it shouldn't be. But for a few dollars it and the coil can be swapped with a j/y part.

Just before the battery went completely dead in my Legacy the tach started jumping around. Wondering if you have an electrical problem as in not getting enough voltage to the ECU and/or distributor. Thinking that power amplifier attached to the coil bracket takes 5 volts from the ECU. May be worth while to check this. I would also replace the coil and coil wire if this was my problem only because I have extra ones. edit: Just for jollies put a load on the battery and see how much voltage it is outputting. Recall the ECU will "die" around 10 volts.

Check the coil braket for a good ground. That ignition amplifier thingee requires it but as stated earlier, the 87 model XT will not run with anything less then an 87 distributor and ECU. No other years will work.

Someone on another forum told me the distributor used by Subaru for something like the 1st 10 months of the 87 model run was unique. Anything older or newer will not swap. Snce you replaced the cylinder head, the timing belts had to come off. Any chance the one that drives the distributor is loose? Hope you saved the original distributor.

Fairly sure all the 95 through 99 engines used the same injector but you can't go wrong by just comparing the number on the injector.

All true but can you think of a better place to have a breakdown? Beer and really hot chillli are my favorite meal this time of year.

Double check the torque on all the bolts that were removed to install the new calipers. Drop the back half of the driveshaft and see what happens. Could be a driveshaft problem. Just about every time I work on a car and a new problem then developes, I have learned to recheck my work.

So I am dyslectic.

No. Subaru uses the diagonal brake system. Go RR/LF and then LR/RF.

Any model will work. I once went the other way and used a rack out of an XT turbo and installed it under an 85 GL wagon. Want to sell the original rack?

Isn't the 90/91 4EAT "special". Seem to recall something about the final drive ratio.

This type failure is usually catastrophic. long time ago an older cousin had a rusted 56 pink Rambler wagon. Really liked that car for some reason. Anyways, pulling out his driveway one morning the car literally broke in half. The Rambler like your Subaru was a unibody design.

If just the mounting points are still good, all that rusted stuff can be replaced in an afternoon using air tools. A few summers ago I pulled the complete rear assembly out from under a wrecking yard car in 3 hours using just hand tools and on my back.