john in KY

My wag is the problem lies somewhere in the distributor. The tach and the ECU both reqiure signals from the distributor. No signal to the tach probably means the ECU isn/t getting one either.

Gary, I have 2002 LL Bean edition leather seats in my 95. Bolted right in except one of the inside rear mounting holes is not used, and had to reuse the 95 seat belts. Still have the door panels and rear seat. Panels are different and never saw a need to replace the rear seat because I never ride back there. Forgot to mention, 8-way power and heated.

Don't overlook the original poster will be running 25mm thick adapters and he wants to retain the same wheel centerline value. 42mm-25mm=17mm. A wheel with a +17mm offset will clear the suspension but will increase the front track by roughly 1". CORRECTION: Boy, then I screw this up. You have to add, not subtract, the wheel adapter thickness to the offset to the wheel offset to keep everything else close. An 8" wheel with a 42mm offset without the adapter will clear the suspension. With the adapter the wheel would need a 67mm (42+25) offset.

A wheel with an offset of around 30mm will put the centerline of the new wheel/tire/adapter combo in the same place as the original but I'm thinking the inside of the 8" wheel will then contact the suspension. The 7" wide RS wheel just clears the struts on my Legacy and XT6. A wheel with and offset around 15-20 mm would kick the tire out about 1/2 inch but should clear the suspension parts. But this is all just off the top of my head.

I'd check for spark at the spark plugs. Good chance you just disconnected something.

If the rotors have never been removed, there should be 2 Phillips screws. Remove them and the rotor should almost fall off.

Charging a frozen battery also a big no-no. Recall about 40 years ago a cousin had this homemade battery charger. Just a generator powered off the motor on a compressor. No voltage regulator either. As he was connected the battery to the charger I voiced the opinion this was probably not a good idea and why not just give the battery time to thaw? He connected the battery and I headed for the door. Didn't make it. Battery went off like a bomb.

Pilot removal trick: Fill the hole with grease. Insert something the same size as the hole and whack it with a hammer. Bearing will almost always pop out.

Also if leaking the gas is HIGHLY explosive. Had a battery years ago that had a crack in the top. One day I removed and reinstalled the pos cable. Got that little spark you always get and the battery literally exploded in my face. Only reason I am not blind today is the sunglasses I was wearing saved my eyes.

Nope. /6 with a floor-mounted 3-speed. 30K miles. My wife's grandparent's car. Bought new and garaged in 1990 when they stopped driving it. Took about $1500 and a few weeks work to get it back on the road. Gas tank, brakes, radiator, stuck valves...all the usual stuff that goes bad from sitting for 17 years. But absolutely no rust and the interior is as new.

Got one from an 85 XT turbo I pulled years ago and saved. Can't tell from your posts which one you are looking for. Also mine has the serpentine pulley. Thinking all the turbo XTs came with that belt design.

Should also have a data plaque on the underside.

Think you would be happier with a rising rate regulator like 1:1.5. Easy/cheap way to boost pressure is to just restrict the return line with a hose clamp.

PM me the number. Is this a PAP yard? Crossville isnt that far from me. John

OK WHERE DID THE XT XT6.NET FORUM MOVE TO? I cant belive they took it down. http://www.subaruxt.com

Check out the ignition switch.

If that is a SS scoop, and I think it is, I have one around here somewhere. Also it has mounting bolts. Makes it easy to mount. I never used it.

Don't know what your problem is but I'd rule out a knocking rod. 1200 miles with a rod knock? Never happen.

Where did I state the 68-70 models are not collectable? I was a teenager during the 60s and when I graduated in 66 there was exactly one 66 Charger running around town. Actually that lone example and a yellow one I saw sitting behind a barn in TN a few years ago are the only two I have ever seen. Nobody wanted them in the 60s and that hasn't changed. But beauty and value is in the eye of the beholder and if in your mind a 66 Charger is a hot car, go for it. Only real reason I replied was to post this photo of my Dodge Demon.

Auto dealers are in business to maximize profit. Just the nature of the game. Used cars with no known problems can be resold for more money then the identical car with problems. If whatever is causing the vibration is an easy repair, the dealer would have done it. Ditto for the alignment. I would never buy a used car off of a lot with known problems. An alignment problem combined with an engine vibration shouts wrecked car to me.

True but is a 66 Charger a classic? I'd lump it in with a 66 Rambler. Wasn't even that popular when new. Too bad neither is a 68 or 69.

Here's something I learned/experienced a long time ago. If just one brake is dragging enough it will generate heat. The heat is transferred to the brake fluid which then expands. Expansion of the brake fluid inturn casues the brakes to drag more generating more heat. Eventually all the brakes just lock up. Just one dragging brake could explain why both front brakes got hot. Car may have brake shoes in the rear that are adjusted looser then the front disc brakes. All MC have a small port to prevent this. This small port allows the expanding fluid to escape back into the reservoir. I would strongly suspect the MC s the source of this problem.

Can't answer any of your questions but if this was my problem I would just go with Outback rear struts.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-85-94-Loyale-turbo-Automatic-AWD-tranny_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33727QQihZ022QQitemZ350000976562QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW