john in KY

If you only hear that clicking sound when the car is in motion, suspect the CV axle you repaired.

Don't know if all are the same but doubt it since there are 2 types of water pumps...short and long. I should have a pump from an 85 XT turbo around here somewhere if you can't find one for the 87. If your 87 is the turbo model then it should work. John

I still think you have an AFM problem. PM Gary as he knows which ECUs swap.

The XT6 and Legacy both use the same front wheel bearings. As for the front CV axles, the XT6 axles are actually significantly larger then the Legacy turbo axles so don't be concerned about XT6 front components.

Emiley posted something about this sprocket a week or two ago. Can't recall the details but do recall there is a difference in the sprocket. Maybe someone else can recall her post and pull it up. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88842

If you didn't touch the filler tube when the pump was replaced, I would not now suspect it. If you removed a bunch of fuel lines to replace the pump, I would suspect either a line is loose or now cracked.

Drum will probably never come off until you back off the shoes. Look for a slot on the backside of the brakes and use a screwdriver to back off the adjustor inside the brake drum.

Hydrolocked?

My 95 wagon is OBDII.

15 pounds is pushing the envelope but I ran 12-13 pounds in my old turbo wagon for 4 years with no problems. Ran 15 pounds for a few days but the engine pinged under load and I could tell by the deposits on the spark plugs the tops of the pistons were melting.

Bet you discover the tailhousing has cracked. Hope it's just the seal but you will very lucky if so. More damage was done if the car was towed with wheels down.

I recall reading that post around 10 years ago. The car and owner are probably both history now.

Recall reading an article years ago that dealt with modifying this type. The car was a VW with a Bosch airflow meter. Author claimed reducing the tension of the flapper spring, along with a few other modifications, produced enough HP the engine ripped the engine mounts. I never could grasp how modifying the flapper so that it opened quicker could produce any appriciable HP gain.

Hub=56.1mm

Found no ohm value for the CAS. Just a LED shining through 360 slots. Guessing it either works or doesn't. CTS: Test in water and the first test has me puzzled. @ 14F---7-11.5 kilo ohms. (How do you get water to 14F?) @ 68F---2-3 kilo ohms @ 122F--700-1000 ohms Edit: Just ralized you have an XT. Specs I provided are for the XT6. Probably the same. Air valve: YR wire goes to terminal #1 BW wire goes to terminal #2 YL wire goes to terminal #3 Between terminals 1 and 2---9.5 to 11.5 Between terminals 2 and 3---8.5 to 10.5 Between terminal 2 and the metal housing of the sensor--infinity. If you need another distributor, ECU and/or have any interest in an incomplete set of 1988 XT6 FSMs, missing chapter 1. PM me. John Edit #2. Ignore the above because what I have is for the XT6. A bad airflow meter will cause most of the problems you have described.

I'll see what I can find. Where in NE Ohio? Originally from the Warren/Youngstown area.

Neither is true. The XT6 has a FSM nd the ECU will store/flash DTCs.

Best I can do is to tell you to goggle "Endwrench win 01". The article will show you what you did wrong. (Looking for the winter of 2001 endwrench publication.)

Used the FWD axles only because the length is close to the XT6 axle.

Miles, this combination worked for me when I converted my FWD XT6: 2002 hubs,springs and struts reused the XT6 top hats Legacy FWD axles Car maybe sits an inch higher in the front but has none of the problems you have described. The XT6 axles can be made to work with the newer style hubs. Just take the outer joint to a machine shop and have that seal surface machined down to accept the newer style grease seal. I had this done for something like $30 but for some reason didn't use the modified XT6 axles when I did the conversion. Wish I could remember why but can't. I don't think you will ever get the ride height right using the Legacy struts.

Haven't yet figured out how to generate a link. That 2-week old post I tried to direct the OP to pretty much explains what went wrong and how to do the belt right.

Automatic? May want to check the vacuum modulator on the transmission.

Quite often the problem described is caused by using the wrong timing mark on the balancer. Seems everyone the first time they replace the timing belt makes this mistake.

Has to be screwed into the intake manifold somewhere. Look around on the backside of the manifold, maybe on the driver's side first.