john in KY

Just something I made in about 15". Section of exhaust tubing. Smashed one end with a hammer. Two holes for bolts to catch inside the sprocket and one 1" hole for the socket. Crude but works.

Thing is the original alternator has only 2 terminal. All alternators I am familiar with have an "I" and "S" terminal. As long as your wires that went to these 2 terminals also get attached to the I and S terminals on the new alternator, no problem.

http://www.northstate.com/champion/index.html You can always "shorten" a jobber length bit with a hammer. Gary turned me on to this. Clamp bit in vice and whack the shank with the hammer. Drill will snap and you end up with a stubby bit. I won't use a bit that "was close" in size. Just a tad too small and the insert won't install. Tad too large and the insert won't hold.

Goggle "screw machine bit".

Once drove an XT turbo that someone had removed the turbo. Very very little power. You aren't going to like the EA82T minus its turbo.

Vacuum line near the coil could be for the distributor. Know my 85 turbo had 2 such lines and I'm thinking my 90 turbo had one. What I am thinking if your distributor doesn't have a vacuum cannister then maybe the distributor has been replaced with a wrong one. Those connectors are just test connectors.

The 90 through 94 Legacy used one type of alternator and then changed to something different in 95. The old style should be difficult to mine whereas the newer should be easy. I like to think I am also frugal. If this was my problem, I would just visit the local wrecking yard and get an alternator and its plug from a 98 or 99 whatever.

Unless you are really attached to this alternator, very easy to replace with a 95 and newer by just changing the plug.

Not saying the HG hasn't failed but the way you have described it would make it a rare failure. Without seeing the leak I would first suspect a leaking intake manifold gasket or one of the heater hoses.

Car sat for 18 months with fuel in the injectors. Injectors now probably in poor shape.

I wonder where all that gasoline came from. Thinking the most that could have leaked into the engine would be whatever the line from the pump to filter could hold. Wonder if the FPR ruptured?

Not difficult to replace the combo switch. Just requires pulling the steering wheel but I'd check things like blown fuses/bulbs before going that route. Plenty of posts explaining how to reseal the oil pump. Many owners do it when replacing the timing belts. All that oil leakage is probably originating from bad seals rather than the oil pump. If the "lifters" are not clattering, then the oil pump is not the source of the leakage. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768

There is a small line that runs under the manifold in that region. If you are lucky, one of the heater hoses has developed a small leak. Probably not a good idea to be driving the car any distance since the leak now is large enough to form a puddle. Thing is probably close to bursting. Hope you know how to "burp" the system after you repair the problem. An air pocket is not your friend.

Just throwing out a guess but my guess is that coolant line that feeds the turbo.

New heads installed means he distributor was pulled. You just need to focus on the ignition timing. Easy to get it off.

My 95 has one fusible link in that box near he battery. May want to check it.

Have owned an 85 XT turbo and a 90 turbo wagon. Never had a bit of problem with either. Drove the turbo wagon 100K before selling it.

Wonder if something (HEI type) from a 4 cylinder GM product could be made to work. Wondering because I bought an ER27 a few years back that was modified for an aircraft install and it has a GM HEI distributor. Asked the seller about it when I bought the engine and he told me all he did was to replace the gear at the bottom of the shaft. He used the stock Subaru gear so it meshed with the camshaft gear.

Do you have the 4EAT transmission? Thinking that makes a difference.

Where are you located?

Friend has a 97 Legacy with the 2.2 and wants to know if the HG can be replaced without pulling the engine. I've never done it. Any tricks involved? I'll pass on whatever is posted.

Three axles and all have the same problem tells me the problem is not with the axles. Failing bearing comes to mind.

But he posted there is no spark from the coil. That made me conclude there may be 12 volts running through the coil but there isn't enough voltage produced at the terminal to generate a spark. The on/off flickering light tells me the distributor is doing its job. But the coil has been replaced and no change. Just a mystery to me.

Don't know. Sorry.

This to me indicates a very weak coil. Just pull a coil from about anything at the wreckers and swap out yours.