john in KY

Just restrict the flow. Tuned using a fuel pressure gauge. Also used a different FPR that I recall was rated at 55 pounds. Restricted the return flow with the clamp and ended up with 70 lbs under boost. That and a few other mods and the old wagon ran as well if not better than my XT6. Edit: Should mention imo any modification to the EA82T is a waste of time/money unless first the radiator is replaced with a new unit.

Or use a hose clamp on the return line. I ran 12 pounds of boost for 3 years in my turbo wagon and then sold the car. New owner got 2 more years out of it before the grandchildren tore out the front differential.

How that could be possible is a mystery to me. Not flaming you, just can't imagine how that could be possible.

Power booster could be bad or the check valve. Just disconnect the vacuum hose at the booster, plug it and see if the idle improves. Don't drive the car when doing this.

Had the oil changed once in Alaska. Next time I went to do it myself. Tried every tool I had to include a 24" pipe wrench I couldn't loosen it. Took car back to the shop that last changed the oil and got the "can't be anything we did" runaround. Took car to another shop. left it and somehow they got it out. Have no idea how.

Whatever the problem is, it isn't the TPS. Don't mess with it. No engine can "rev excessively" without an air supply. You have an air leak somewhere. Anything different with the brakes? Could be a leaking brake booster.

Just did a wheel bearing replacement last month. Plate retained by 4 bolts. Bolts can be removed without removing the parking brake stuff. Parking brake shoes can be repositioned enough to get to the bolts. Problem is the hub has to be pulled. No getting around this. My wheel bearing replacement failed and I ended up just using a complete knuckle assembly from a 98 Outback. Learned that the ABS sensor are different. My wagon is a 95. Had to use the 95 sensor because the 98 had a different plug.

Suspect the only difference is the diameter of the rotor. Are you sure those threaded holes aren't there. If not, my guess is the rotors somewhere in the past where changed with non OEM stuff.

There are 2 pumps possible, a short one and a tall one. Make sure you install the correct one. Wrong one installed and the pulleys will not line up.

Oil somehow has to get up to the valvetrain. Just wondering if when the HG was replaced, maybe an oil hole got plugged or something.

Bench bleed it or just disconnect the line at the cylinder and let it drip. Will take hours and you'll have the watch the MC so it doesn't run dry but eventually gravity will expell the air. Slave cylinders are almost always a pita to bleed.

Try cleaning it. Also check the coolant temperature sensor.

As I understand, one of the front wheels is locking up. Not a differential problem. If the diff failed, there would be no power to that axle. Has to be a wheel bearing or caliper problem. Also my understanding is it is hard on the CV axles when the car is on jackstands and in gear.

You'll need the disc brake backing plate to mount the caliper. Only way the backing plate comes off is first the hub has to be pulled. Plus I doubt if the drum brake backing plate has an hole for the ABS sensor. Could be wrong so look closely at both backing plates.

Problem is to convert one to the other, you have to pull the hub. When the hub is pulled, half of the bearing will come with it. Sort of back to square one. Still have to install a bearing.

Same car. Everything swaps.

Actually quite a bit.

Don't know how many amps a radio needs to play but had a thought maybe the problem is upstream from the radio. Poor ground? Broken power wire? Just too much resistance somewhere?

The next time the engine quits after that 30" run, check how warm the coil is. If the coil is hot to the touch, my guess is you are using the wrong type coil. Coils sort of come in 2 types: high and low impedance. Really can't be swapped. Position of the coil has nothing to do with the problem. As an aside, the coil bracket has to be tightly bolted to the car body as it serves as a ground.

Checked the specs on Subaru 101 and it looks like if you got the cold weather package the amp was not an option. Could have one or the other but not both.

Sounds like an amp problem to me. Thinking all the LL Bean models came with an amp. If the radio is a McIntosh, then there is for sure an amp somewhere.

+1 for a cracked tone ring.

To me, the first photo is the wrong way and the second the correct. Flop the gasket and see how it works.

The guide is junk for no other reason than that bent valve moving up and down in it has wallowed it out. Just take the head to a machine shop and have a new guide pressed in.

It's the timing belt.