john in KY

You are still in for a lot of grief. That long bolt that has to be removed will be next to impossible to remove without air tools and after soaking it with a high quality penetrating oil for several days. Break the ABS sensor and there goes another $160. Been told the final torque on that long bolt when you go to reinstall it is critical for bearing life. Too much and the bearing will fail. Don't quote me but thinking the correct torque is 90 lbs. Went through this nut roll myself earlier this year and it was a nightmare.

Time for a new radiator.

Rev the engine while parked in the driveway to whatever rpm is equivalent to 35mph. No vibration and the problem is restricted to something that rotates while the car is in motion.

The starter has nothing to do with this problem. Timing belts installed correctly and you have spark so that eliminates a lot of potentials. Spray some starting fluid into the throttle body. If everything you stated is correct, the engine will fire. If the engine does fire, then problem just about has to be the injectors are not firing.

Subaru has a special LSD lube that you probably should use.

My guess is does it have the scanner port next to the steering wheel? If the port is there, should be a II. No port then I.

Engine cranks but no start almost always equals broken timing belt.

When you remove the door panel there are 2 rollers located at the very top of the door. I would adjust these before fooling with the adjustments lower in the door.

We know the coil and "power amplifier" mounted on the coil bracket is good because all of it worked in your other car. IGN switch is good becaused you tested it. Fuses/fusible links also good. 12 volts directly to the coil didn't work. The voltage to the has to be broken for the coil to generate a spark. I think this occurs on the negative side of the coil (ground side is interrupted). The distributor has a photo optic whatever internal called the CAS.. Light shines through 360 slots in a plate. Somehow the ECU uses this. That's about all I know about the distributor. I believe you mentioned you have an extra distributor. Unplug the distributor in your other car and plug in the extra. Place key in the run position and turn the distributor by hand. If the coil produces a spark you know that distributor is good. Do the same test in the car that doesn't run. If NO spark is generated there is a break somewhere in the wiring. The ECU has been swapped so it is probably good. You could always test it (the ECU on the nonrunning car)in the running car.

Likely the bulb filiment has broken. Replace the bulb before cutting wires.

When you tested the coil in your other car, did you just swap just the coil or did you swap the coil and the bracket?

With the key in the run position, I would think there should be 12 volts at the positive coil terminal. Also unplug the distributor harness and check the carside of the harness for voltage with the key in the run position. Beginning to think if both the coil and distributor are getting voltage the problem may be whatever causes the voltage to the coil to break in turn causing the coil to produce a spark has failed.

The flipped flopped pinouts could be caused by you looking at either the male or female side of the plug and comparing the wrong end with the diagram if this makes any sense. If you compare the two connectors side by side you can see how one is the mirror image of the other . /12345.../ and \...54321\

His car is RH drive. Don't think any US LH-drive rack will work. Maybe someone in Australia can find one.

All the front seals except the oil pump gasket are the same. Entire dash will have to be pulled to replace the dash pad. Not all that difficult. If the plastic dash trim pieces are still good, don't break them. Almost impossible to find anymore. Transmission is the 4EAT. Pretty much bullet proof IMO. Check out http://www.subaruxt.com.

Crank angle sensor inside the distributor but you stated that was swapped. Really need to check the coil for 12 volts on the positive side. This narrows down the possibilities. Also if you would test for 12 volts in the ignition system at the key switch when key is in the run/start position this will also help.

Check for current flow across the IGN fuse. Unplug the IGN switch and start jumping terminals in the plug and see what happens. Would really help if you had a diagram for the ignition circuits. Probably won't do any good to check for voltage at the coil because I doubt if you have any there. Does the fuel pump kick in for a few seconds when the key is first turned? Wonder what would happen if you ran a wire from the battery directly to the positive side of the coil? Don't know if the GL has this feature but the XT and XT6s have something screwed to the back of the ignition switch. Screw loosens and that causes a starting problem. Worth checking.

Not the coil but the coil bracket. Attached to the bracket is a power amplifier or something like it. It is riveted to the coil bracket and uses the bracket for a ground. Turn the key to start and there should be 12 volts on the positive side of the coil. IGN fuse should have 12 volts across it with the key on. A simple test light works for both tests.

Ever check the IGN fuse? Check to see if voltage is flowing across the fuse. No voltage then suspect IGN switch. Also the coil bracket has to be well grounded. Could also check for voltage at the coil. Slim chance the coil wires got crossed.

That is because the rotor has a ridge right on the outer edge. You need to compress the pads just a bit for the pads to clear the rotor. Use a large screwdriver. When you get to the point of installing the new pads, the caliper piston has to be turned in. Trying to compress it won't work.

Gary, Last axle I bought was at least 10 years ago. Probably have rebooted 20 or more axles over the years. Wagon with 210K miles eg still has the original axles. Anyways, use diesel to clean the joints. Make sure you install the clamps on the axle shaft before installing the boots. The packet of new grease is all you need. I just pack it in there and yet to have a problem. You'll need a tool to secure the clamps. At least 3 different types of clamps so good idea to take one of the new clamps to NAPA and match the tool to the clamp. Once the diesel does it's job, really not a messy job. The two end clamps can be a problem to install depending on what type clamp came with the kit. But if you have the type of clamp I am thinking about, it will fit. Just have to work at it. edit: Forgot to mention the two internal snap rings. The big one can be rolled out with a screwdriver. The little guy requires a snap ring removal tool.

Ever solve the problem?

Happens all the time. Clearances between bearing shell and journal just increases to the point the pump can't maintain pressure. Think garden hose with finger over the end and same hose with no finger. Lots of pressure one way and very little the other. But this engine has hydraulics. If the engine isn't ticking like mad then it has enough oil pressure. Been driving an XT6 for 10 years that shows zero pressure (hot) and maybe 20 pounds cruising. Subaru gauges can be way off.

Can you post a photo of the damage? My guess is the crankshaft can be saved as long as at least some of the keyway is still there. My concern is someone sees an opportunity to make a bunch of money off of you.