john in KY

Working on replacing the rear wheel bearing in my 95 wagon. New seals arrived today and I have no idea which is which. One is the outer, another the inner and the last goes in between. Would be nice if Subaru identified them as such but no luck. Numbers are 28015AA090, AA100 and AA110. My hat is off to everyone that in the past has reported "only took me 2 hours to replace mine". Been working on this for days. just one problem after another.

Find out if equipped with an anti-theft alarm. Wife's 99 recently had some of your problems. No start/lose of radio presets/gauge needles flopping around. Turned out the chime module was the problem. Go figure. Seems most of the interior electricity flows through it before anything else. located on the left side of the center console right next to your right leg. Hope this link sticks. http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135171&highlight=car%20won%27t%20start

The arrow is pointing I believe to the nut used on that now missing long alternator bolt. You can't adjust either of the pulley without first loosing the nut located in the center of the pulley.

When I went and replaced the front suspension in my XT6, I initially went with axles and hubs from a Legacy turbo model. The XT6 cv axles won't seat fully in the turbo knuckles because the inner grease seal was a tad too small. Recall I took the XT6 axles to a machine shop and had them turned to same diameter of turbo stuff. Easy way is to check to see if the XT6 and the Legacy share the same inner grease seal.

Check around under the hood/bonnet for a sticker. Often times the manufacture will put one there with tune up specs. Another option, at least here in the States, is to go to the local library and request the factory service manual for this model. The librarian will contact other libraries until the manual is found. May take a week or more.

FPR failed?

There is an 89 FWD turbo wagon for sale locally that I may be interested in. Emailed the seller and he informed me it has the 3-speed automatic which needs replaced. Just doesn't sound right to me. Thinking starting in 88 all the turbo models received the 4EAT. Is the seller correct?

Good chance there is still one bolt you have missed. I would pull the timing belt cover. If you already have the new pump, count the mounting holes and verify you have removed the same number from the attached pump. Also, there is a difference between turbo and NA pumps so make sure you have the right one. Wrong pump and the drive belts will not line up.

Saw this on CL. Don't know much about the newer stuff and thought maybe someone on the forum could give this guy some good advice. I advised him to join this forum but that's as far as I plan to take it. http://louisville.craigslist.org/pts/1236724671.html

Also a fuse under the hood in a box next to the battery. Always good to check for a broken timing belt.

My 95 dd this a few years back and it does not have a cable-driven speedometer. Think the problem was a failing VSI but I just replaced the instrument cluster. Found a low mileage one from a 98 and haven't had the problem since.

Weak coil/bad plug wires can cause this problem.

Grossly retarded timing and/or a clogged exhaust will cause this. 99 is too new for me to know much about but seems to me there must be some way to adjust the ignition timing.

Don't think the Mustang and Fairlane shared that many parts. http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?Parta~PartSort~A0~~~~~A20~A1

Before you pull the pin, do you position the tensioner all the way it will go to the left? Permacoil IMO is easier to work with than Helicoil. Holes are either 8x1.25 or 10x1.25 depending on which you strip out.

A new radiator has the potential of solving a lot of current and future problems. I've opened up a few 20-year old Subaru radiators and all were at least 70% clogged.

"Only when wet". Get another coil pack from a local wrecking yard.

"Sweet smell" usually indicates coolant in the exhaust. Could be just left over stuff from the engine swap.

I like the wrecking yard solution. Just pull the entire combination switch and snatch the headlight relays just in case. Basically all you need is a screwdriver, steering wheel puller and a socket to fit the wheel nut. My guess is either the combination switch has partially failed, not completing the ground, or the relay has failed.

Locate the dryer. Should be on the passenger side of engine bay. Follow the hard line going in the direction of the radiator and you will find the pressure switch. Can't be more than 10 inches from the dryer.

Remember there is a left and right caliper. Don't swap sides if you ever want to bleed the brakes.

Fair chance the calipers won't rotate is because the pads are hanging up on that ridge on the rotor.

Just did my 95. The mark on the crankshaft gear is a vertical slash on the back of the gear. The arrow, not used, is more or less in the 3:00 position in the photo. I had to remove the passenger side camshaft sprocket to install the new belt.