john in KY

Probably wrong but always thought the turbo versions came with a 3.70 ratio.

Are you 100% sure you installed the distributor correctly? One tooth off is enough for the engine not to run.

Elkton. Down on the KY/TN stateline. 42220.

Also my favorite color for the wagon. Saw one that color in Ohio many years ago but only the one. Subaru really should bring that color back.

My guess is the airflow meter. Had the same symptom when the one on my wagon failed. Replaced it with a $5 used one 4 years ago and still running strong.

Bet the only way involves pulling the instrument panel. Remember to disconnect the battery...that airbag thing.

The entire bracket has to be grounded for the part in question to work. No grounded bracket=no spark.

Check the rotor. May be loose.

Any chance you could test the fuel pressure going up that hill? Dropping cylinders and lack of power under load suggests to me either a weak ignition or low fuel flow.

Dust shield behind rotor may have gotten distorted from all that hammering.

If it is what I think it is, they just pop part. Ball and socket type.

Run from this "deal". You are very close to receiving the hosing of your life. Edit: Too late. Just reread original post and see you now own this car.

Define "hub bolt".

Left side of vehicle is in fact the driver's side. Left/right referenced from the driver's position.

Check your email.

There all in that range. It is the XT6 that uses the 14.7 ohm injectors. May want to source some European XT turbo injectors. Don't know what they flow but do know different from those used in the North American version. Thinking they have brown tops. Euro spec XT turbo produced something like 135 hp.

If he hot wires the positive side of the coil this will backfeed the fuel pump relay. The fuel pump will run and the coil will be hot. Engine just may start. Offered to email you an ECU pinout diagram but appears you don't want it.

Fuse #11 goes hot when the key is either in the RUN or START position. This circuit includes the fuel pump relay and the ign coil. If the fuse is good maybe the problem is in the Ign SW. Go in the trunk and unplug the ECU. Find the single red wire and test for flow. It is suppose to be always hot. PM your email address. I have an ECU pinout diagram in PDF format that I can't for reasons unknown to me cut and paste. (Mac OSX) Thinking I can send it via email. John

Check the top mounts orientation. Chance a previous owner installed new struts and installed one or both backwards. Mounts should have an arrow showing which way out.

Backing plate retained by 4 bolts. Problem here to completely remove it, the hub has to be pulled. Every time I pulled the hub part of the bearing came with it.

Few years ago I was 100 miles from the house and lost the battery because the alternator failed. Wife came to rescue me with jumper cables. I jumped off her battery for about 20" and drove home with no problem. Edit: Doesn't the belt that drives the alternator also power other things like the water pump?

Syringe is what I use. Little hole at the top.

Seal one side of the roll pin hole with a golf T. From other side, fill hole with Kroil penetrating oil. After a few days soaking, it will come off.

I recently replaced a rear wheel bearing in a Legacy. Same part you have. Repair failed. What I ended doing was just replacing the entire knuckle with a low-mileage used one. I went through 3 bearings and 3 sets of seals before going used. Still haven't figured out what went wrong with the "repairs" but all 3 bearings ran hot after being installed. Guessing something wrong with the knuckle.

After first belt installed, make sure you rotate the engine one full revolution before installing the second belt.