john in KY

It is the fuel pressure regulator that determines what pressure the pump works at. The MPFI system runs around 40psi but again it is the FPR, not the pump, that sets the pressure output.

Just a guess but if you are not the original owner I'd guess someone somewhere in the past dumped some Stop Leak or whatever in the radiator.

Only one: shaft presses against the internal oil pump and destroys it. No pump=no ATF circulating=no movement. Been there, done that.

Problem is not the speed sensor. Speedometer works off a sensor on the differential. Had the same problem in my 95. My solution was to just swap out the instrument cluster. A new sensor didn't solve anything.

If you have fuel and good spark, just about has to be a timing problem. How old are the timing belts? Old belts have been known to loose teeth before breaking.

Just looked at all your codes and all seem to point to a lean fuel condition. If you just want to throw some parts at the problem, start with a new fuel filter and air filter. Clean the A/F meter. Find out what is wrong with the EGR valve. A used A/F meter and EGR at a pull-a-part yard will probably set you back $15.

Check the link for location and insure none of the 3 test connectors are connected. You never know. Also includes a list of what the trouble codes indicate. http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

Had hoses collapse on my twice. Both times the cause was a clogged radiator.

How difficult would it be to "flop" the exhaust manifold? Turbo then would be positioned in the area where the alternator is now.

Jim Dandy Motor.

Taking the fronts apart isn't difficult. I've been known to use nothing more then a spare tire when pulling parts in a wrecking yard. Lay strut on ground, cover coil spring with the spare tire, stand on tire and unscrew that top nut. The strut will shot out the bottom of the coil spring. Crude but it works.

Gary, I've done more than a few of these. Rear springs are easy to compress but the fronts are real bears. Just notl enough (have enough coils) to grab onto. Just did all 4 on the wagon. Rears I did myself. The fronts I took to a local shop and had them done there. The top perch or cup or whatever you want to call it will have something to indicate this side out. Look for an arrow or dot or something. Other than that, really no way to screw it up. Never trust whatever coil compressor you end up using. Good chance that spring could kill you if it unloads and whacks you in the forehead.

Seems thin to me. Just stop at any auto parts store and ask to see just about any car brake shoe to get an idea of the general thickness. Take a look at the wheel cylinders. Probably a good idea to just replace them.

To remove the radio, first remove the cup holder. Then remove the ash tray. Directly above the ash tray there are two screws that also have to be removed. Bezel will then pop free. Been awhile but good chance you'll also have to pull the plastic around the gear shift.

I have some turbo injectors if you ever decide to replace.

Not a great photo but the blue Sharpie is pointing at the CTS. Located in the coolant crossover pipe.

Just to the right of the ECU look for a green plug and a black plug. Connect the green plug to set the timing. After setting the timing make sure both the green and black plugs are unplugged. Fast idle probably nothing more than a dirty coolant temperature sensor (CTS). Should be located somewhere on the intake manifold over on the MC side. Not to be confused with the temperature sensor for the in dash gauge.

Did you use the green connector next to the ECU when you adjusted the ign timing?

Thinking a 1st generation FWD Impreza axle works here.

Replace the radiator with new and "burp" the coolant system and you should be fine.

This is an exercise in futility if I understand the OP. Car now has EA82T engine minus the turbo. I once drove such a combination. Had just enough power on the flat to move. Doubt if it could have made it up even a small hill.

Made some progress before quitting for the nights. Old bearing is out and new installed. Pulling the old bearing turned out to be easy once i figured out the bearing had to come out the front and not the back. Two hours wasted there. Just need to install the hub and the oil seals and that side will be finished. I found and saved that pdf file earlier today. Thanks anyways for the offer. John

When the wife had the problem, I bought 2 used ones at the local yard. Both worked/solved the problem for a few weeks but problem returned. Got a new one about 3 weeks ago and the problem has not returned.

Hub tamer just arrived. At this point in time having no luck with it at all. Looking for photos of it in use on the web. Half of the outboard bearing came out with the hub. The rest is still stuck inside the knuckle. I removed that outer snap ring. Not sure which way the remaining bearing inside the knuckle needs to be move the remove it.

May want to invest in the chime module. Directly behind the fuse panel. Access gained by removing the panel on the left side of the center console. Puppy runs around $45 at the dealer. About the size of a deck of cards. Could be green, brown or orange.