john in KY

Any chance the balancer pulley is slipping?

A friend of one of my nieces several years ago wanted to buy a flood damaged VW and no one could talk her out of it. The car had electrical problems you couldn't believe. No sooner than one was repaired, something else would fail. On top of that none of her friends would ride in the car in the summer because of the mold and stink. After several years of suffering with the car she finally junked it because it had zero resale value.

Sounds like you popped one of the 4 fusible links. Also, since you replaced the coil, make sure the coil bracket is tight against the body because it has to be well grounded.

Recovering the headliner is easy. Just glue. stick and trim. The only real problem is the headliner needs removed from the car to do the work. Not the end of the world but all the interior side trim needs pulled to drop the headliner. I bet your buddy can do it. Finding the exact material can be a problem so why bother. Go to any upholstery shop and it will have rolls and rolls of headliner material that are of a higher quality than the stock stuff.

In that case, seems an upholstery shop is your only option. Find one, pick out whatever color you want and have them do it. Few years ago I removed the headliner in my XT6 and had a shop recover it. Thinking it came to $50 for the material and labor. Expect to pay a bunch more if you have to pay the shop to remove and reinstall the headliner.

What about that igniter thingee on the firewall?

A cracked tone ring will throw a code.

No. Front differential needs separated from the transmission and then the front of the transmission needs removed. Really need to identify what is producing the noise before taking apart transmissions.

Inside the transmission. Transmissions will also whine when low on ATF. Invest is a stethoscope and maybe you can pinpoint the source of the noise.

Invest in a new radiator and I think you will be very happy. If you do pop for a new radiator, remove the end tanks from the old radiator and you will see why most likely the engine had a blown head gasket.

The clutch is slipping. Probably soaked with oil. Wondering if whomever did the engine work forgot to torque the pressure plate? If the clutch is oil-soaked, you shouldn't smell it when it is slipping. Other hand if not oil-soaked and slipping, that really stinks. No mistaking it.

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Just use light pressure and low drill rpm when starting. The drill bit will self-center itself in the damaged hole. Determine how deep you need to go and mark this depth on the drill bit with tape. You don't want to go too deep or not deep enough. I like to use Perma-Coil over Helicoil only because the installation tool is better IMO.

The majority of my metric tools I use are from Gray. They work for me and I am very satisfied with them. Have yet to break or strip any of them. http://www.graytools.com/

My advice is to buy the best set you can afford. Cheap stuff is just that and over your lifetime you will replace them many times. I am still using tools my father purchased in 1955. You'll also need a 15mm socket to remove the starter.

A chance the previous owner installed the wrong oil pressure sensor. One works with the light and the other with the gauge. They don't interchange.

It is a 3.70 if it came from an older Subaru. If from a newer Legacy, who knows?

I did the swap about 4 years ago. Recall the bulbs are different and can't be interchanged. Also I replaced the plugs but can't remember why. Maybe the original ones were melted. Still have the car, a 95 and I think the headlights came from a 98.

The knock sensor is sort of between the turbo and throttle body. Closer to the TB and easy to overlook. Screws into the block and only has one wire. vibration more than likely from a failing driveshaft.

Get some of this stuff. May take a week to dissolve the rust but it will given enough time. http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

That's it. Not worth it IMO replacing it. Just get another used alternator.

It's part of the alternator.

I'll add a few more tips. Loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts before removing the timing belts. The bolts you will be working with are small and easily broken. Go easy on them. Been my experience the 3 most important gaskets to replace to stop leaks are the oil pump gasket and the O-rings behind the camshaft sprocket housings.

Replacing the complete door/doors is the easy way. It is an unbelievable pita pulling and reinstalling the windows and all the associated hardware and then you have to do the adjusting. Been there and don't want to go there again. Windows also require a relay. Have no idea where it is located in a Legacy.

Seats will swap but will be much lower. May have a problem seeing over the dash. How are the front fenders on the XT? Know someone looking for some.