john in KY

No problem with 1:1 at stock boost.

Feb 1 - 1992 Subaru Legacy Wagon - $650 - (Highlands) pic <<cars & trucks Check this out. Craigslist/Louisville.

I don't understand your ratios but I ran for years a turbo wagon with 14 pounds of boost using a Mopar RRFPR. Seem to call the Mopar regulator started at 45 pounds and do recall the ratio was 1:1.5. So at full boost the fuel pressure was at 66 pounds. Still have the Mopar boost guage and a new EGT guage I never got around to installing. Also have 6 of the larger 240Z injectors around here somewhere. A 10:1 ratio means to me 10 pounds of boost will increase the fuel pressure by one pound.

Probably is the timing belt. Remove distributor cap and see if the rotor turns when the engine is cranked.

This doesn't sound good.

Make darn sure that little transmission input shaft is fully seated inside the transmission. When you get around to bolting it all togather and it seems like the bellhousing is hanging up 1/4" short of being fully seated, stop. It is and if you continue you will break the internal pump.

Can't think of any connection between a bouncing tach and a bad AFM but your description of "can idle all day but dies when the pedal is depressed" has bad AFM written all over it. Or bad electrical connections somewhere.

This is exactly what a bad airflow meter will do.

The Colt was plugged in (block and oil pan heater) whereas the Subaru wasn't. I recall Fairbanks was shrouded in ice fog that morning. When I looked down main street to check the time/temp sign at the bank there was a moose walking down the street. At work I threw a cup of hot coffee out the back door of my office and it froze before reaching the ground.

If you pull the steering wheel you will see there is a plastic spring-loaded switch that is the problem. The only time I had this problem I sprayed this switch with WD40, clicked in about 20 times and reassembled everything. That was about 8 years ago and the switch is still working just fine.

-58F one morning in Fairbanks. Didn't attempt to use the Subaru that morning. Took the Dodge Colt GT that morning.

88/89 GL10 turbo wagon with the 4EAT.

Calipers are the same as far as I know. Rear rotrs: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-XT6-Coupe-4WD-88-91-Rear-OE-OEM-Brake-Rotors_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQihZ003QQitemZ130195928025QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Are you saying you need XT6 rear rotors? Or are you doing a 4-lug to 5-lug conversion and need all the other stuff? If just rotors, I can help you in that area. May want to join this forum: http://www.subaruxt.com

Just for giggles, pull the vacuum line to the FPR. Looking for any fuel. When it ruptures the pump will pump fuel directly into the intake manifold. Only seen a total of one FPR fail but it does happen.

Popping through intake suggests the timing is off or a burnt intake valve. Red hot cat suggests a timing problem.too much fuel/clogged cat. High rpm restriction also suggests a timing problem. I would look real hard at the valve timing/ignition timing before doing anything else.

Can be cleaned but not a DIY undertaking. Requires sonic equipment and other stuff most people don't have. Lots of businesses out there that perform this. You mail the injectors and they are taken apart, inspected, cleaned and flow tested so you end up knowing exactly the condition of each injecter.

This is a lot of oil. Don't know if this engine has a pressure sensor attached to the oil pump but I would look there first. Checking to see if it ruptured.

Quick repair would require one of those 4' jacks offroaders carry. Can't recall what they are called but if you can get the rear bumper under something solid or very heavy, like the rear bumper of a lifted 4x4 truck, the jack can be used to force your bumper down.

When you set the timing with the light, did you also connect the green test connecter and unplugged it when finished? Can't set the timing if not connected. The IAS is located on the left side of the throttle body. That one inch diameter or a little more that starts under the air tube going to the throttle body connects to the IAS. The thing is probably nasty inside. Easy enough to remove and clean. With the engine hot if you pinch that hose close, the idle should drop a bunch. Just a test to verufy the IAS is working. From your description of the problem everything was sort of fine until you played with the distributor timing. I'd couble check it before anything else.

The new cap should have a "1" on it identifying the terminal that goes to #1 cylinder. Using this as a starting point, and if you know the firing order and which direction the distributor turns, you should be home free.

Crimping the return line just increases the fuel pressure which increases the amount of fuel delivered to the injectors. I did this years ago on a turbo wagon along with a RRFPR with an initial setting of 50 pounds. Ran it for years with 15 pounds of boost with absolutely no problems.

Sounds like it is on its last legs. Better to just replace it. Any Subaru radio from the 90s and even up into the 200s should be a plug and play. Have a single din from my 95 LS you can have for postage if you want it.

If you need to make it longer, just cut it in the middle and insert a section of tubing.

http://www.staugustinefwd.com/