john in KY

Just a wag but sure sounds like an alternator problem.

Is the coil bracket securely bolted to whatever it bolts to? If not grounded you end up with your problem.

I still think the problem is you have the spark plug wires at the cap in the wrong holes. Also thinking you are using that "1" stamped on the cap as the starting point. Because the cap can be installed 2 ways, there is a 50/50 chance the "1" can be on the wrong side. Pull the wires from the cap. Remove cap, turn it 180 degrees, and reinstall it with the "1" on the other side. Reinstall wires starting with the "1" now on the other side of the distributor and see if that solves the problem.

Bet you a box of doughnuts the problem eventually will be discovered to be part of some wiring harness not connected. have pulled a few dashes myself over the years and know from experience it is very easy to overlook one or two connectors.

The 4EAT is designed to not upshift until the ATF reaches a certain temperature. Drop the pan and you will see the temperature sensor, about the size of a pencil. My wag is this sensor needs replaced.

I've done it more then once. Working on something and then not getting back to it for days/weeks and forgetting/confusing where I stopped.

It' a possibility but the first time I replaced timing belts, and not knowing at the time the engine needed to be rotated after installing the first belt, that engine fired right up on just two cylinders. Still believe the firing order is wrong. Thinking since you had replaced the cap and rotor so many times you got the wiring order at the cap 180 degrees off.

Even though you have rechecked the firing order, my money is on the firing order is wrong. I mean all you did was change the cap and rotor.

What if you installed that bevel washer upside down?

It's been my experience that once the noise starts, the clock is ticking. Justs gets worse over time.

May want to check the brake pads also. You never know.

You'll probably never loosen it with just a breaker bar. Need an impact wrench or add about another 4 feet to the bar you are using. Edit: Sometimes, even using a 5 foot cheater bar, I still have to stand on the end of the bar to break that nut loose.

Just pretend it's not there. As you loosen the nut, it will disappear.

Runs at rpms above idle but will not idle? You have an intake manifold vacuum leak somewhere.

Once you lose forward momentum and one or both wheels continue to turn, you'll find yourself on the frame before you know it. At least that's what a truck I had years ago would do. When I stuck it, it was really stuck.

If this was an XT or XT6 the headlight relay is located behind the fuse panel. I suspect it is in the same location for your Loyale. Look for something that looks like a small cube. The XT has 4 or 5 relays in that location and your Loyale probably has the same amount. Can't recall which is the headlight relay.

Hre's a source for used parts that's not too far from you: http://www.pullapart.com/Locations/LocationDetail.aspx?locationId=10

May not be brake related at all. Could be a wheel bearing.

Had a 64 when I was a teenager. Truly a terrible car. Be warned that because of the rear suspension design, this car can kill you if you take a curve too fast. I still have a vivid memory the first time in a curve the rear wheels left the road.

Looks to me like you left out one wire in the new harness.

I noticed the Op said something about wondering if the belts where installed wrong. If this new belts were installed and it was a first time for whomever installed them, very easy to use the wrong timing marks. Would explain the no-start problem.

Don't worry about it.

Knock sensor?

Used them years ago to repair a radio from a 3000GT. Had to return it after it was repaired because it wasn't. Finally got it back. Radio worked for another 6 months and had the same original failure. Wasn't worth it in my case.

I keep a spare key in my wallet. Saved my bacon more then once.