OB99W

Probably. Next time it happens, try doing some tight figure-eights while in reverse (in a safe place like a deserted parking lot, please); if there's a change in the symptom, it's likely the VC.

It's reasonably likely the tire has a separated/shifted belt. Perhaps the tire dealer can find you a good used tire that matches and has about the same amount of tread left. Or, try to get Goodyear to help. If you have to replace all 4 tires because of the failure of one that might be due to a manufacturing fault, they should at least give you a substantial discount on the new tires.

If you can, obtain the freeze frame data; the short term fuel trim (STFT) and long term fuel trim (LTFT) can be especially useful.

You're welcome; good luck with the repair.

Yeah, sounds "hokey" (although perhaps not "pokey") to me.

How many miles are on the engine? When was the oil last changed? What viscosity grade was used? Are there any engine noises that seem unusual? Has this only started happening since the warm weather we've had?

I'll give that answer partial credit. An unfortunate other possibility is that the bulb was intentionally removed or otherwise disabled to cover up a problem. Well, the other thread was from January of 2006, so going back to the shop that did the previous work might not lead to satisfaction. Murphsubaru, at this point I'd first concentrate on getting the ABS light to come on during the "ignition on" test. If you're able to get into your dash (and feel confident in doing the work), first see if the ABS bulb is in place and intact. You could also verify that the ABS fuses (there are usually two) aren't blown or removed; however, even without the fuses, the ABS light should come on. Once the ABS light functions, we can discuss what might have gone wrong with the previous work and how to diagnose it.

Assuming no fluid loss (external leak), could be either the master or slave. See these for possible cause and fix: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ClutchPedal.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ClutchInfoWin04.pdf

1) Which codes? Misfire (P0303, P0304)? Any others? 2) Idle RPM? 3) Idle quality (smooth, lopey, misfiring, etc.)? 4) Did you use new OEM coil/plugs/O2s? 5) How's the electrical system doing (voltage at battery terminals at idle)? 6) If DTCs are for misfire, the problem may be other than ignition-related. 7) Please restrict the use of capital letters, I'm getting a headache. 8) Welcome to the forum.

OK, let me be clearer. There's nothing specifically wrong with 0W/40, just that its better pour point may not be merited at the temps your engine is likely to see (there's a difference between "freezing" and -45 F ). Most of the major brands make a decent product that should go 5,000 miles between changes (a very reasonable interval for synthetic run in an engine that's in good condition/tune) without problem, so I'm not going to offer my opinion in that respect. As to 5W/50, you might see a slight loss in fuel mileage due to the heavier viscosity.

I Know that there have been some strange climate shifts recently, but just how cold does it get in the Bay Area of California? A significant portion of engine wear occurs on cold start before the oil gets a chance to circulate. Low viscosity at cold temperatures can actually help in that case. "0W" viscosity doesn't differ significantly from 5W at moderate "cold" temps, but its pour point is quite a bit lower. Therefore, its main advantage is in places that get really cold, which brings us back to the question I asked above. See http://www.carbibles.com/viscosity.html

Well then, let's start there. Whether the ABS light illuminates or not under certain conditions can help with diagnosis. 1) Does the ABS light come on if you turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position (without starting the engine)? 2) Does the ABS light remain on for about two seconds after starting the engine, and then go off?

Has it worked since this?: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50811

The 16-pin connector used for OBD-II is standardized. There are, however, a few protocols that determine which pins of the connector are used. Subaru, like other Asian companies, uses the ISO 9141-2 protocol; it requires a minimum of pins 4, 5, 7 and 16. However, my own '99 OB has connections to pins 8, 12, and 13 in addition to the required ones. It's likely that the Subaru Select Monitor uses those pins for its own protocols, but that shouldn't prevent generic OBD-II scan hardware/software from properly interfacing. I've got an Equus Innova 3130 that works just fine on the OB. For some info on the connector and protocols, see: http://www.myscantool.com/Documentation/Topics/Hardware/Determine_Protocol.htm http://www.obdii.com/connector.html http://www.cardlabs.com/CardLabs_obd2.htm

Expect to see differences, even if nothing is wrong. The "wasted spark" ignition causes two of the plugs to have ignition voltage polarity opposite that of the other two; there should be more-evident center electrode wear on half the plugs.

Any ABS lamp indication? Weather/road conditions at time you experienced the condition? (Was it raining in Seattle? )

If torque bind symptoms go away with the fuse in, duty solenoid C is working. If the folks at the shop don't get that, you might want to consider whether that's a place to trust. If you haven't already done so, one of the first things to check is whether your tires are all properly inflated, and that they are of the same size. See: http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/drivetrain/RearAxleBindingInfoF99.pdf A full flush would probably be worthwhile. If the problem doesn't disappear right away after the fluid change, drive around a bit before assuming there wasn't a cure -- it can take a little time to resolve. A few tight figure-eights while driving in reverse (in a safe area, please) might help. Some forum members have reported good results by using a limited-slip additive (friction modifier) in the ATF, but that wouldn't be my first choice. Disabling AWD (rear drive) by putting in the fuse doesn't affect gas mileage very much, if at all, because the car still has the drag of all the hardware. Welcome to the forum; good for you for being willing to get involved with your car's repair.

It may not be related to what you've got, but "Incorrect Parts Substitution" on page 12 of http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Emissions.pdf is interesting anyway.

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/RoughIdle.pdf

Have you verified that the maximum inflation pressure rating (on the sidewall) for the tires you have is over 37 psi? The "standard load" max spec is only 35 psi (cold), although many tires do have a higher rating.

Here are some real facts:1) By itself (see #3), a catalytic converter that's in good condition doesn't have much of an effect on gas mileage, and removing the core won't improve things to any significant degree. 2) An obstructed cat can lower gas mileage, but replacing it resolves the problem. 3) An engine that uses a cat is designed to run near the stoichiometric point when possible (light to medium loading; heavy loads require a richer mixture). All other things being equal, getting better mileage requires running leaner. However, removing the catalyst doesn't turn the engine into a lean-burn one. If the engine management is modified and the mixture is leaned, engine temperatures go up significantly; an engine that's not designed for it will have problems. Just to show that I'm not naive: 4) Cats are not environmentally perfect -- while they reduce certain toxic exhaust gases, they increase the output of greenhouse gases that can lead to global warming. Someday we might have better emissions controls, readily available alternative fuels, etc., but for now the catalytic converter is what we've got, and defeating it gains little but more pollution. By the way, I don't hug trees, but I do care about them and the rest of the planet. It's too bad that the environment means so little to some people; perhaps they don't expect to have a future, and don't have any family that might, either.

Right, the world needs more pollution, and a constantly lit MIL and P0420 code are fun.

Some more on the topic: http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Pdf/102006_09.pdf

Congratulations on resolving the problem(s).

Let me preface this by saying that I don't condone high labor charges, especially by some shops that do poor quality work... ...but I'm curious; how long do you think changing HGs takes if done properly? What do you feel is an acceptable hourly rate for the job?