electryc_monk

This just rocks totally cool! Have a wonderful visit y'all :>)

utterly sheewwweeeettt! nuff said.

See, size *Does* matter and I too am 6'2" and a paultry(sp) 175 lbs. my old GL wagon I'd hit the ceiling in occasionally, but the GL-10's sunroof allows for me to feel a little more headroom :>)

depending on how the new "job" works out....... It is a slight possibilty that I might beable to make a "driveby hello" or even a dedicated visit..........

awesome and super slick y'all!!!!!

that file sounds like a engine with new heads(or a new headgasket job and has grease on the rocker arms and cam serfaces to serve till the oil PSI is properly coating it all. reason for saying this? IT's what mine have all sounded like till the Moly-B grease I coated the surfaces with would wash off and tthen it's get all quiet and smooth sounding..... just my experience thats all.

"4WD Turbo" rear sticker..... when you(Corky and TEX) get together and make up some rear ones.... add me to the list (shrugs)

you got mail!

the dipstick is on the pass side underneath the spare tire support BUT, you can get to it without removing the sparetire holder... you will have to take the spare tire out. the dipstick is almost exactly parallel with the engine oil dipstick up front too. should be within about 5 or 6 inches of the passenger side bolt that holds the engine and tranny together. make sure your on reasonably level ground and the engine is OFF... its not an automatic so it has to be off to read the dipstick correctly... Just like the engine oil checking. as for the clicking, whirrrrrring, CLUNKing, tapping, clinking or what ever phonetic attempt at spelling the sounds I think your ears can help you spell out *WHAT* a Wwrrrrrrrr sound is as aposed to a (high-pitched helium inhailing voice)"clink" sound.... dare I guess that made sense to ya? I'm not trying to be disrespectful at all, just trying to find some common ground to offer help via the electronic fronteer... ya hear me? (thinks to self, "Man I hope I didn't just set myself up for sarcastic jokes later. I do that enough without trying even.")

is it shifting smoothly into every gear? does the gear shift vibrate or ratle excessively (think common sense here) in any of the gears or is it fade in and out of noise making? Does it hold its fluid? have you checked it(does it leave stains on the ground?)

your funny!

welll GD I disagree on the need's and "*can*" factors but, hey its all good. that said I'm goin to bed now... good night and good luck(as always)

but.... we don't know... 1. did he use an engine hoist? and does he have use of it now - for this event? 2. garage space and temp control environment for cold ground (IE cardboard and a blanket for distance from cold cement) 3. which is this person *More comfy with*? as well?

DUDE... there have been two or three Very impressively documented (with pictures even) recent rebuilds in here....... the threads are during the last 6 months and all 3 or 4 have at least 15 replies to them.....(conservative estimate) just a suggestion yo! (gives a thumbs up just like "buddy christ"

use a jack to support the tranny and do a tranny drop..... the DOJ pins; the bolts and stud'd nuts that atach to the engine; the rear shaft's carrier barring support's 2 bolts; the tranny support bar's bolts; the two 8mm nuts on the clutch cable and the HH unit; the speedo cable at the speedo(easier to pop it off then unscrew it from the tranny...... JUST WATCHOUT for the gearlube dripping out the tail of it tipps to far aft! did I forget anything?

use rain-X... I've been using it for welll over a decade and enjoy its easy removal of ice on the windshields.

so with the aftermarket systems and the turbo (VF4 or VF/VJ 11) does this mean we could rationally see 30-38 mpg with this beastie with out a truckload of R&D?

the voltage across the board to each of the solenoids is like 5 volts and the relays are between 2 and 10 volts IIRC back when i was doing ALOT of studying of this system and figuring out the wiring.... last summer i had figured out that with the help of a classmate/friend/grad student (he has keys to lab) we would of been able to make a "override board" that would use its own IC chips to allow for manual setting of the struts based on PSI as the known limits (upper) is something like 175PSI..... and then we'd have 2 guages with a L/R over it and be able to switch between front and rear viewing on each guage. anywho..... that way we wouldn't be frying the main Height control unit...we would of had a "dumb" curcuit making the brain "think it was set at normal level" and the compressor was also part of this override board's controls.

"That is ONE hose" LOL

is *THIS* what your aiming for? simple drawn over photo in engine bay: http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo61 goto bottom of album. or, maybe this works for the picture ID directly? maybe? http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo61/test_2a_030

as you may have seen in the other thread of my posting link to one of my albums for FSM pictures, unfortuneately the quyality of the pictures is not awesome and as such I can't get the sharpness highenough for the MANY lines of the wiring diagram and the pinouts also seems to blur "just enough" to make it a serious teaser to see those details..... I'm gonna try it one more time for this thread and show proof of the camera's limitations. sorry to figure this out and reply so late.....

I used the FSM for the 88 XT for reference but the push button model is the same :>) anywho as I loaded the pictures I hope this link works. the last three on this album page: http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo61 its a camera not a scanner.

I'd also go for the polishing and clear coat orrrr (tongue in cheek) you could have it goldplated (smirks and ducks) polish it smoother... thought of polishing the inside too?

you have an album already right? thought so... just upload them as images be it gif jpeg pin or dare i say it...bmp's if the Cad files are special visual view only then you could resort to a "save as html viewable? Or am I just assuming grandly here? then upload the "html" page in an album??????

when we stripped a J/Y car a few months back for interior parts the ignition swithch was removed with screwdriver only. the plastic collumn came apart with phillips head screws and the ignition aluminum unit with its wiring connector just dropped right out IIRC and its sitting in the storage unit with the small selection of other stuff we got with it.