electryc_monk

clean it up and prep it for return to service dude!

I thing the previous answer is wheelbase "Length" if I read it correctly NOT, wheel base "Width" .....using the FSM for a 1988 XT in the Book for sections 4 & 5 section 5-1 BOdy Datum points page 11 top the strut tower has three holes for the strut retaining studs to fit thru. the front most of the three holes are: total distance apart from one another 40.47 inches OR from the Center Line 20.235 inches of C.L. the Body width in the engine bay is on page 13 From point HR (hood right) pass. to HL (hood left) drivers 53.70 inches 26.85 inches off the C.L. that is the rear most bolt holding the fender on (using the center of the hole/bolt) that's as closs as I can find at the moment there is another area but not sure yet.....

the Euro ECU didn't work? care to email me? I got a wierd idea after reading that link you showed in a different thread..... P.S. sorry for tangenting away.... so back on thread..... seriously in the P-N-P thinking of SCU's with the same wire connector ports.. if the Euro/Jpn model is the sane connectors as the US and happen to be better then it goes to without saying that a 85/86 version should infact work akin to the idea that 87 oct. is okay but 91 is much better.... you see the metaphore now?

aside from the other issues I find it rather amusing to me in seeing folks mis reading one another in a nearly broken record format..... this thread is frustrating me with posts ignoring info and repeating stuff that has been explained or re-explained... on "both sides" of the fence. so may I suggest a judicious "recess" for all parties as it is beginning to look like "this class" has been in session too long and the whole class needs some time "out on the playground". (if you see multiple layers to this, then good. If you see me disrespecting anyone then I'm sorry but, IT's not intended as such and only pun injected)

but, I'll try to take pictures of the pages and stick them online somewhere ...... like my album over the next day or so? is that too long?

defensiver mechanizium? or more of a subconscious distancing from the evil little box that'll steal your soul. LOL

okay - now go forth and be fruitful and gain some rubberized mudflap material and some scissors and awl's cut, puncture and bolt 'um up folks.

passenger side of the radiator on the side wall. on turbo models there is a similar item on the plate the thermostat is located on. submerssed as in radiator needs proper fluid levels... even though its about midway down the radiator tank it still reads temp from the humid air in the system if its really low and steam is filling the system hence why its still technically immersed i dare suggest.

that is a spectacular place and easy to cover in a RTV silicon around the wire and hole when its finished for water proofing ya know. 12 feet sounds reasonable, but if its not to much more I'd suggest 15 for error on caution side incase a section gets a burr cut in it while running it thru the undercarpet sections. OR if your really hurting for a place and don't want to use that nice hug grommett then there is a smaller grommet around the speedo cable (as well as the clutch cable as a second err thrid option) I run the boost line thru the speedo grommet as well as the A/F sensor wire. :>) its discrete and very close to the areas of interest for these two mod's for connectivities. ya know.

I kinda know a feeling your discribing..... its a familiarity with a usual motion. kinda like a simple function of downshifting to pass someone when your busy with the rear view mirrors to "time the launch just right". The cam swap and the head swaps are very familiar to me of late :>) too. as for the amount of speed/time to do a set of cam towers and start her back up??? I don't know. But I could definately say that I can have an engine in a car and running in significantly less then 8 hours from sitting on the bench - IF I had to do it [no hoist] and had ALL THE PARTS IN ONE LOCATION. (winks towards Calebz, Mike and Beth) LOL in fact I'd be willing to guess I could do it in less then 5 hours - and this is solo, FYI.

find a shop that has "metric" adapters and there you will find a setup of pieces (like sun tune has a packet that i bought thru pep boy's a while back for the boost gauge... sooo maybe this will help with it. my wagon had a small (1 inch long) pipe extending the sending unit away from the pump's threaded hole sooo (shrugs shoulders at this one) did that make sense?

for the Cu head gaskets... what did you get to seal them? Where did you get it? I have a set and would like to use them in the spring but, nned to find the sealant for the gaskets to use them.... I am obstaining from the BS/ no BS part of this thread.... its not what I'm personally interested in currently. As for pictures.... ehhhh, when you can is when you can ... i understand that... but what I'll be drooling over is the stat's on what the shop's did for the cam's and the other millings... IE reciepts for what has been done in due time..... ..... I'll await patiently the CU info in due time....

(lowers head in humble thanks then starts laughing w/ coughs) "I am human after all even if a bit sick still... LOL Hey it's all good Caleb at least the cam belts were obviously correct, Beth even chidded me in a luaghing way lastnight about that too. Well I'm hitting the road this afternoon for Michigan..... EDT is about 3-4PM here...... next login will mostlikely be from Beaverton, Michigan in just under /over 24 hours. Depending on my nap(?)time in or around St. Louis.

the obvious Defensive driving course "The COURSE" by the MSF for motorcycle riders dirt speedway training (unoffical) back in high school (Costa MEsa, CA.) Dessert tdriver training by my Uncle in his COrvair powered sandrail. (his rules were simple: I don't let it stall and I can't touch the steering brakes.) He would tell we what manuver to attempt and that I was not allowed to touch the steering breaks.... he would randomly (intensionally) yank on one or both of them when i would be doing "X" as a way of helping me prep for the unexpected in such activities as a turn, slide skid or a total lock up...... all out on a dry saltbed in AnzaBourrego dessert and later in the worlds largest "Toy" SandBox, Glamis Ca. These two places are where I was taught how to safely ride a 3-wheeler and dirtbike and sandrails. ITs really all about driver, tirepressure and then suspension travel, and brakes. you gotta be willing to make mistakes and stay humble....we are human after all, right?

i'll post a bit on the fun we've had with the projects Calebz, Okamiichibahn(and his Wife) and I have had with the EA82T's in our lives. Maybe even get the Guniness drinkin' rebuilder (wink) to chime in as well?

does this happen to have any parallel to the SCCA crowds fun and training?

I'm a sending you a PM! (heads up yo!)

this is what I did: http://www.geocities.com/electryc_monk/Headunit_mod.html and the specific Links on my page are for the supply company called Scoche and that is the main part I used for the conversion. Here is the link for the "kit" on thier site too. hope this helps some more too.

when i find it I'll repost the location info of the folks in Cali that i got a head full kit from and see if they can ...wait ... I'll get you the info and you can call them so no missinfo occurs.....

(tip O' the hat) The undue stress is what made the spring semester at the Junior college [K.C.C.] class so timely... I was taking the auto transmission rebuild class that spring semester ! LOL and sure enough the trucks 400TH tranny died while plowing a freinds farm driveway........ $40 towing to the schools garage door later..... Had to leave the plow at his house duh! Turs out the previous owner of the truck hadn't treated the tranny very well at all and it had significantly over 100K on the tranny and its fluid it seemed. (shakes head at the fun that was)

it was a 400/400TH small block chevy 4.10 gears sheeeeeesh what gas hog! it had the auctioned off City service plow (true 8' wide blade) It was a western plow system too. That motor that ran the hydralic system would eat a battery in no time that was a single battery system. I bought a RV battery isolator and set up the stock batter to rund the truck and the second battery was well.... seperate. The local (up there in Michigan, BAttle creek) yard i used to got let me get a bunch of stuff(all electrical system from a dead truck. Fuse block and a LONG section of wireing loom with it. Used a 105Amp Alt to the isolator. The Aux fuse block ran each on its own dedicated curcuit: a. the radio b. the CB c. the aux lights for the plow system d. the aux reverse lights f. the electryc control for the plow G. the electric motor for the hydralic plow movements HAd a DPDT switch for the headlights (next to the aux fuse panel under the hood and the aux battery for swapping from standard headlights and up to the plow mounted headlights) that way the 4 head lights wouldn't glare off the backside of the plow. have some video somewhere and maybe still have a few pictures of it up in michiogan... will be heading up there soonly.... like thios weekend.

Hey Troy err I mean Pot, Hi, I'm Kettle.

mixing synthetic with petroleum *grease* i would think would be survivable and safe, as mixing oil's is fine in the crank case. Its just that the oils being a significantly thinner and different refinement would show its weakness faster I would think. As for grease blending - I'd think it would be safe and fine. If you had one type and the bearings are *in* and you want to wait till "springtime" to then pull the hub and clean and fully repack with synthetic grease as a "better safe then sorry feeling". that would give "us all" plenty of time to chew the cud on the limitations of a grease - be it the dino varieties and the synthetics or the blends of them in one bottle/can. Now if I was in your shoes would "I" use the synth? Sure. I'd just do a few "neat freak" preping steps first. using one clean cloth rag first, then paper towels and q-tips the rap would be twisted up in a "rat-tail fashion" pulled thru the hub. Then wipe the excess greasefrom the outer areas and then Q-tip the inside ring of the seal. "Now I'm not talking clean enough to eat off of. Just so that its got a nice reasonable clean area to start close to fresh with the new stuffcaoting the whoe area nicely. there does that sound to excessive to anyone? Oh and while I was at it, the hub would slide right onto the halfshaft and then I'd put the wachers and castle nut back on it (finger tight) then sit the hub on its ball-joint as the DOJ slid onto the tranny output shaft....that way ou don't do what I have done several times before (in an attempt to short cut) - get dirt and crud onto the fresh layer of grease in the lip of the seal and bear area. sooooo hows that work? anyone else see error in my follies?

[yawns and reaches for morning Hot Tea w/honey] Okay your asking a very direct question. I shall do my best to be as direct as possible. that *site* lists these greases (my thoughts here): Aluminum Complex = (isn't this the "anti-seaze" for bolts?) (the following are not realized by my sleepy brain as yet.) Barium Calcium Calcium 12 Hydroxy Calcium Complex Clay = (Drawing a blank on this based design) (The following three I would think are more for the chain stuff in bikes and motorcycles and rollerskates and skateboards) Lithium Lithium 12 Hydroxy Lithium Complex (again I'm drawing a blank) Polyurea As for what *I* have used and still do ..... laymans terms follow: Axel grease AKA General purpose grease AKA packing grease This is the paper/aluminum fold wrapped tubs of grease the size of a small planters peanut tub. Usually close to $1.99 at auto parts stores. Or Moly-B-dum grease in similar sized tub's. Okamiichibahn's Brat (used to be Zap's?) has hubs that are filled with a special sauce. Marine drive unit grease. This stuff I'm very interested in using on the wagon when I convert to the 5 bolt setup and put new seals and halfshafts in the wagon. So.... hopefully you have been answered as good as possible from my still awakening state. But, I'm sure the likes of the Bratpatrol, Chef_tim, Skipper, and the rest of the Wiseman (and women) would jump to finish this info-clarification your hoping for. I'll admit that I didn't go google for backup as I need to get ready for a few things in my ownbackyad.... ya know what I mean?

So SKip's a Conjourer and created a Subaru for crossing the Ocean Blue? Did he color it too?