subiekid

I am hoping maybe someone has experienced this issue before. I have a 91 legacy turbo (daily driver) and am putting the engine into my 88 wagon. So... I bought another ej22t harness and ended up only receiving the under dash portion (Nothing past the super multiple junction). I had a 90 n/a complete harness, so I used the section from the SMJ to the engine with the f47 ecu plug and added the pressure sol wire and wastegate control. Engine connectors (all rectangle/square, no round connector) and wire colors matched my 91 turbo harness on all 3 engine plugs so I did not re-pin anything on f25, 26, or 27. I plugged this into my legacy and it will start and run but seems to be in limp mode throwing codes for maf, and tps. There is no throttle control, it runs ok with the throttle barely open, but obviously the ecu is not getting data from maf or tps. If I unplug the maf, no change (power is at maf plug, ground as well) If I unplug the tps, engine dies. Now for the weird part, I can pull codes with the black connectors, but as soon as I plug in the green test connectors, engine dies. I must have the power or grounds screwed up (or out of sequence.... I don't know if that makes any difference. I'm just laying my harness over the fender and hot wiring it to the battery for power with a few extra grounds to the engine and body along with ecu grounds of coarse) I know for a fact that the ecu is good as well as all sensors (I drive the car daily, code free) so I screwed something up in my harness thinning or hopefully just have a ground issue or something. Anyone have any thoughts??? Thanks, Scott

If your trashing the axle, have you tried an air hammer? I use a long chisel bit to clear the diff and they always come off. Sometimes a little oxy/acetylene or mapp gas is involved but you dont have to remove anything from the car.... worth a try in my opinion if you have access to one.

I have had the same problem with oil shooting out the back of the turbo after my catch can install with a TD04. The way you have your illustration drawn is not the stock setup, you have no ventilation when you’re on boost besides what the motor is pushing out your vented catch can. After owning 5 of these turbo cars of various modification (low compression, high compression, tdo4, 5th injector, etc.) and about 8 more non turbo, you need to run a sealed system. This is probably why it doesn't idle very well either. Technically to do it right you should run 2 catch cans, one for the valve covers and one for the vent on the back of the block. To solve this problem temporarily however, I would get rid of your vent on your catch can and tee the valve cover hoses together and run them into the "in" side of your catch can, then run a hose from the can's outlet to the pcv valve. Now you need to splice in 2 tees's on the hose to your pcv: one will go to the intake boot (post MAF, pre turbo), and the other splice will be the hose from the 3rd vent on the block. The setup above will allow crankcase gasses to be sucked through the pcv valve when your off boost, and sucked through the intake boot when your on boost. That way the motor doesn't have to work to push the crankcase gasses out (hence the poor idle). But, running it this way kind of defeats the purpose of the catch can. This is why you need 2 cans.... your still going to be sucking oil through the 3 crank vent (but in reality, its run for 20+ years just fine sucking in oil vapors, so its really not that important in my opinion). Did you clock the turbo center section so the oil drain back is straight down? It sounds to me like you have a few more things going on that just the pcv plumbing, but I think re-routing your lines will help a lot with your run ability issues... Until you boost that thing and go lean, hopefully fuel system mods are on your "to do" list. My tdo4 @9psi ran 14:1 on the wideband with an all-stock fuel system, which is too lean for me. EGT gauge would not be a bad idea either; things get hot quick 1550 degrees in about 15 seconds. Either way, I'm local (in Cd'a) and willing to help any fellow subie enthusiast. I have way too many parts as well, so if you need anything let me know... I would be happy to make a donation (you too twitch, if you need another stock turbo, I’ve got about 8 of them...LOL) Sorry for the novel... But hopefully you can get your car running better.

You can rotate the housing on the vf7 as well. The inlets are similar, 90 degree (I don't remember what the difference in diameter is... not alot). The Exhaust (outlet) is 5 bolt WRX style on the vf11 but only 4 on the vf7, The exhaust inlet is different but adaptable. The 2 closest holes (side by side about 2.5'' apart) are the same for both, but the 3rd hole is farther out on the vf11 by around 1/2'' or so compared to the vf7. I swapped vf11 to vf7 for a short time on my legacy (only turbo i had @ the moment) and just had to egg the hole on the up pipe and make a new downpipe, the rest was more or less bolt up. Scott

In the spokane/Coeur d'Alene and surrounding areas, you should call appleway subaru in the spokane valley for any dealer only part that you may need. I have never had a problem getting anything from gaskets, rings, bearings (engine and trans), pistons, etc. Their parts department is top notch! North idaho import parts is also a great resource in coeur d'Alene, they stock many factory parts (exhaust gskts, cam orings, head gaskets, oil pump kits, etc.) Napa is ok for some things, but their gaskets are not anything to write home about (for ea-81 and ea-82 anyway.... paper.... not good!!!!). Scott

You should post this in the new generation forum, the legacy is not discussed in the old gen forum. You might check out legacycentral.org as well, lots of good info. Scott

not really.... my short box pickup was $275 for rhino, and that was bed rails as well.

You can get them from your subaru dealer as well. I don't think you will need to go .030, all I needed was .010 on my Ea-82t.... they really don't wear that much. Pistons cost me $45.00 each, rings were an additional $180. I will be another advocate for the EJ swap, you will be much happier with the power and reliability. I have done both and the n/a EJ22 is not far behind my EA82t, but the turbo does take the cake. Turbo the EJ and you will have mucho fun!!! Scott

spec clutches also offers stage 1 thru 4 or 5... I have the stage 3 6 puck on my wagon, good road manners and it never slips. Scott

To each their own! All I can say is that I currently own 3 GL-10 turbowagons, they each have a blowoff that vents to the atmosphere and all run just fine. They do run rich for a second, but it truly is minimal and that is a fact (based on LM-1 wideband). The above is true for pre 87 and 87+. You are right that our stories are anecdotal evidence, but as I recall, you have an N/A so you can't relate to us very well can you? Scott

I had some popping on my 86 when I first put a blowoff valve on it, but I was able to adjust it out between the TPS and the MAF itself (talking flapper door style pre 87). It really only popped if you were just barely on the gas... so step on it and you will be good . I also have a blowoff on my 88, it seems to be fine all by itself. It will pop (more like gurgle) if you just barely touch the throttle, but I think thats more to due with a faulty tps/idle switch or my lack of getting it adjusted perfect. All in all you will probably not be unhappy in any circumstance recirc. or atmosphere and chances are your car idles rich already. Just my 2 cents. Scott

Hey, don't forget those of us just across the state line too!! I have seen that sedan before too, it is pretty nice. I don't know that they are a board member though. Scott

If your threads pull out, I have had great results using 7/16 studs to replace them. Plus SAE studs are easier to get ahold of than metric (lowes/home depot usually carry them). The threads in the head are M10x1.25, napa will either have or can order the correct studs with no unthreaded portion. Scott

I have been running EA-82 carbed pistons for over a year now in my 86 wagon. I have only put about eight to ten thousand miles on it, but they have been very punishing. The car has the stock VF7 (for now...), wrx intercooler w/ scoop, blowoff, no cats w/2'' pipe and a magnaflow. Head gaskets are also from napa. I have ran a consistent 12 lbs since I put the motor in and the clutch has been the limiting factor since day one. Other than going through a few turbo's the engine has been doing ok. It still runs fine, but you can tell that I have rodded the crap out of it. The rings were suspect on the block before it was turbo though, I had the block origionally in my 87 carbed wagon and it used a little oil. Anyway, just thought I would share my experience. Scott

Go to your or call your nearest U-haul location, they will be able to get the hitch for you. Uhaul carries 2 different hitches for our cars, one is a fixed mount and the other is a 1 1/4 inch reciever type. Both hitches are class 1, 2000lb capacity. Also, you can order the hitch on uhaul.com. Hope this helps! Scott BTW, the fixed mount is $129.95, the reciever type is $189.95.

I have had my 86 GL-10 to 125mph before and it still wasn't out of breath (just slipping the clutch like mad)..... pretty scary in a station wagon!!!! Allthough if I had a good up-pipe, cams, clutch, and a t4 it would go much faster (then gearing would be the limit). Scott

There are 2 filters on the carbed cars, one right after the fuel pump (pass side in front of tire) and the one in the engine bay. Scott

It's got the flapper MAF, everything is operating smoothly there. I used the pressure regulator from the XT that the intake came off of. Whatever it is is causing multiple things to not work right. I have the car set to stock boost right now because even if I turn it up I don't get hardly any more power. I can crank the boost to 12 or 13 pounds (and retard the timing some more) and the car wants to go but you can feel something holding it back (timing???). Sometimes you can mash it and it will pull VERY hard but only every now and then and for a short duration at that. Don't get me wrong, the car runs great and driveability is great plus it still pulls 5 times harder than stock it just feels like it wants to run much harder and it can't. I forgot to add to my original post, I am running a carbed block so the compression is up a little. Thanks!! Scott

My 86' Turbo wagon is getting horrible gas mileage. It has never been great, but now I am getting like 10 MPG. The only big change that I have made is the N/A Spider intake, other than that everything is the same as before. Also I am having a huge detonation problem, I can't even run the car at anything over 10 BTDC because as soon as the boost hits, I get detonation. But the thing doesn't have anything down low with the timing set like that. Either way, the detonation problem is much higher on my list than my gas mileage. Anyway, any help would be greatly appreaciated. Thanks! Scott The car is: 1986 GL-10 Turbo WRX intercooler, NOPI blowoff straight through magnaflow exhaust Spider intake w/K&N filter (cone)

I would invest in a o2 sensor socket, they are 1/2in drive and work like a breeze. I used to fight with them but now all I will use is a o2 sensor socket. It also gives you an excuse to add another tool to your collection! Scott

hocrest: you have mail!

yeah, the XT has some weird cable system to operate the window. It is one pain in the arse! Thanks! Scott

I was just wondering if the power windows in a 1985 GL wagon and a 88 XT were the same. The cable for the window in the xt is all screwed up and won't stay on the reel so I was wondering if I could just rob the setup out of my 85 GL and put it in the XT. Thanks!! Scott

Hey Andy, Are you still looking for a Ea-82 clutch/pressure plate? Let me know, Thanks! Scott

the smoke is blueish in color. Its oil smoke, I know that much. Thanks a ton!!! Scott