scrap487

mmk bit of searching got me the sequence and torque values for the rocker arms. I got the valve covers off, and then the rockers.... and it appears to have solid, nut/screw adjustable lifters(not hydraulic)??!? wasn't quite expecting that, is that correct or am I horribly misinformed on what I'm looking at? so if they are mechanical I guess that almost rules valves out as the source of this knocking sound. I'll check the clearances and make sure nothing is incredibly off before putting it all back together though and report back later tonight. Back to the motor swapping discussion... if I have a 90-94 block, I should be able to swap the 99/phase 2 heads on to it and then would the rest be easy plug and play as if I was just dropping in another phase 2 motor? Thanks for bearing with me guys, I'm learning alot about EJs now and I look forward to being apart of this crowd... after I finish this project if I still have this '92 ej22 complete I plan on dropping it in my 86 fwd hatch(ea71) Update: Didn't have feeler gauge handy but valve/rocker clearances felt about right. Everything's back together, let it run for a while, pulled injector plugs one at a time and with cyl #1 unplugged majority of the knocking/rattle went away on acceleration/higher rpms, but still definativie knocking could be heard at idle. #3 #2 #4 cylinders being unplugged had no effect. I'm curious what would cause something in the #1 cylinder to fail, isn't it first on the oil train, so lack of oil at one point in time would be more likely to effect 3 and 4 long before 1 or 2? Also after it warmed up, knocking at idle becomes louder but noise at acceleration/higher rpms lessens vs when cold it is the opposite, completely quiet idling and noisier at speed. I'm going to also pull the timing belt cover in the morning and have a look at things; any other things to check on just to make sure I rule everything else out before tearing down this motor?

this car doesn't have EGR, and does have the smooth valve covers which stands out a lot against what I remember of 92(picking it up tomorrow night so I can start playing around). I pulled the plug wires one cylinder at a time and it made absolutely no differance in the sound I'm hearing; pulling the plugs off the injectors would have taken a bit longer than the 2 minutes i had managed to scrounge together. A friend of mine I work with who used to be a subaru mech years ago said it could also be the HLAs going bad, he has had that issue once before and said it sounded exactly rod knock; and also said that if that was the issue I may need to look at resealing the oil pump? what do you guys think? it's not a huge job to get to them, what would I look for when I pull them out(I've never torn down a motor with hydraulic lifters before, so I dont have any idea what to look for...dont tell anybody...)

its a 5 speed manual transmission, not an automatic(sorry I may have forgot to mention, as that probably changes alot) Thanks!

mmk... most of what comes up in searchs are people swapping ejs into ea series cars, but I'll spend more some more time searching later tonight after dark. I somehow get the impression that both phase 1 and phase 2 motors are present in 99 models, whats the best/easiest way to identify which motor I have? I'll be visiting a junkyard on monday to see if I can find a 95+ intake and that wiring harness; if that fails I have 2 other blocks that aren't complete that I'll just swap the heads over too.

yeah, its a toss up, I really don't care about having to go through emissions, tags are good till 2011 and if it doesn't pass I can register it in a place that I dont have to deal with that for a few more bucks. I haven't had a chance to play with it yet and wont till next week... I can't wait. I haven't been able to compare the motors side by side yet(car is in portland, motor is sitting couples hours away in washington under my parents carport), but the intake manifold on the 99 looks exactly as I remember it looking on the '92... what are the differances other than egr?

no such thing as safety inspection here... only thing it needs to pass is a sniffer at the tail pipe. I have 2 other ej22 long blocks but I know almost nothing about them, I'm pretty sure the intake and everything will swap over onto the donor, I didnt notice any major differances.... if egr is needed, would i be able to swap the heads from the 99 onto the 92 motor? or is it really even necessary if I dont have to deal with any kind of inspection? The knocking sound is slower heavy clacking, planning on pulling plugs on the injectors one at a time first to see if that changes anything but it does seem like it comes from the drivers side, not sure yet if its towards the front.

So today I became the proud new owner of a 1999 legacy with an ej22... my first car with an ej22. I got it for a very reasonable price with the knowledge that I will be having to replace the motor; and I've had an ej22 sitting in my carport from a '92 LSI ready to go long before I ever got this car. The motor has approx 230,000(not entirely sure, odometer quit working reliably after 185-190k). At start up cold idling the knock is undetectable, and even after its warm at idle it's not always present. under small load(c**t hair to 1/4 throttle it makes a horrible racket, under heavier load/acceleration and full throttle it goes away. To me it sounds like the bottom end is in trouble but isnt close to as loud as most of the ea81s/ea71s i've worked with that have bearings on their way out. I've driven this car approx 50 miles like this so far. Can pinging cause a similar noise? the previous owner said it started about 5-6 months before she stopped driving it entirely back around march, and I haven't even felt like putting a few bucks of supreme in the tank before I get a clue where to start on it. The check engine light is on, and has been on for ages, and her mechanic said it will likely keep coming on and off for the rest of the life of the car(I got this feeling her mechanic might have been a bit... out there.. though). Any suggestions/help/comments/complaints/advice would be appreciated, main reason why I want to spend some time looking into this is because its my first ej22 and so far I'm really only familiar with the carbed ea series engines. That and the donor engine being from a 92 and this being a 99 I think it may take more than just an afternoon in the shop after work to complete that swap(any ideas/suggestions on snags I might run into on that would be greatly appreciated so I can plan ahead a bit better) Thanks guys! I've been away from here for quite a while. Also for anyone looking for a beat up 84 gl, I'm selling mine - check it out at http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=936388#post936388

Approx how much did it cost for them to do your cam? I'll be giving them a call on Monday. Thanks!

whoa... first post on here in ages but good to be back! Anyways, I'm in the process of rebuilding an ea81 for an '83 GL I will probably end up buying from a friend. So far what all I've done is strip the heads off and sent them off to a buddies machine shop to take 0.020" off the heads and do the valves. I haven't yet torn into the bottom end, but I have all the bearings and seals from a kit I bought years ago that i never ended up using. My goal is to get a better overall performing engine but nothing crazy, its going to be a daily driver/farm vehicle. I have some more searching to do, I am currently looking for suggestions on what to do with the bottom end on this motor and the cam, I'd like to modify it but I have limited knowledge of cams and what would be appropriete lift, duration and timing etc... to get the best results, I'd like to have a bit more torque in the lower RPMs since it will see a lot of driving off road and in heavy snow. I've also thought of dropping in an ej22 a friend built for a '92 LSI but I really want to hold that project for my 2wd hatch with an ea71 when that thing blows....

mmk...thanks guys appreciate all the info. He's not going to need to do a swap after all, his mechanic was full of crap. Not sure what he was originally told but the motor in his car is still perfectly good.

Ok great, how differant is the wiring? all i have is a long block, he is going to strip all the stuff off the motor on his 98 and put it on this one.. what are the notable differances? I dont have any experiance working with subarus outside of the ea81so I'm pretty ignorant as far as the 90s go

I have a couple ej22's sitting around and a guy is coming over to buy one and want it to replace a motor in his 98 legacy. I know somewhere in the mid-late ninties they changed the bellhousing bolt pattern somehow and I need to know if this motor will work in his car with his transmission. I've spent the last 30 minutes or so searching and finding a lot of answers that lead me to believe there shouldnt be much of a problem but I havent found anything that makes me 100% certain it will work, and I do not want to sell him a motor that might not easily work in his car. Thanks, [edit] I believe his car has an auto trans

yeah just heard it on the radio that it was confirmed... sucks, dont let that deter you from driving though... it was a helicopter crash, not wrecking during a competition that killed him.

not sure if I completely understand... but I'd check out the balljoints make sure they aren't worn. Other than that I'm not too familiar with the ea82 suspension. I suggest lifting the car up off the ground and putting it on jackstands, and then getting under there with a large wrecking/prybar and stick it between all the various components of the suspension and look for anykind of play.

what kinda price range are you looking in? I got my 29.50x10.50 tsl/sx's for around 350 about a year ago.... they're pretty tough, tread life probably isnt the greatest but theres alot of it so its not horrible. Great for dry conditions but anything wet and muddy, they'll get you through it for sure, but will tear up the ground something horrible - I have them on a 83 nissan 720 at the moment and all we use that truck for is moving stuff around the farm, cant really take it out across the meadow when its wet :-\

+1

I had considered using them for a time... dont have any experiance with them but from what I've heard is they suck in mud, they will just dig you trenches till you high center, and they arent much better in snow and slick, not very good lateral traction? I dunno, but, on the plus side, I'd think they'd be a really tough tire which is what I seem to need when conditions are dry and dusty. I ended up going with 29.50x10.5x15r TSL/SX... they are really sweet for a light subie, tons of traction and fairly tough - I usually run out of oomph to push them with before I really loose traction, although its been about a year since i've driven on them. Although I put the TSL/SXs on a nissan 720 though and I had some problems because it is quite a bit heavier, they are also quite a bit more destructive to the ground(will turn a relatively healthy, frozen, moist meadow to crap in no time)

heh... dont beat your self up over it, could have done worse like me last winter - drive up mt hood knowing its bad and being too lazy to replace it, started out fine, was gettin up to 55 pretty good, then got higher, and higher, and slower and slower... at one point had to stop every minute or so to let the gas slowly trickle back into the carb fill up the bowl before starting up again. The way back down was worse as hard as it was to believe, soon as it got flat it wouldnt go. Ended up in sandy at 1am laying underneath the car on freezing concrete trying to bypass the filter... took nearly an hour because of how much mud and crap was under there and all the hose clamps being stubborn. I got home at 5am, hypothermic and sick off gas fumes. Now, I was the idiot. 1- Don't leave town in something thats not top notch 2- Don't leave town in something thats not top notch w/out proper tools or parts 3- In my case, its best not to leave town

I've been considering modifying the front suspension on my brown wagon and one thing I'm trying to figure out is what to do with the steering once I put the engine cross member back up in its stock location, and the knuckles being about 7 inches lower and about 1-1/2" further out. I guess some pictures would probably be most helpful, can the steering hold up to extreme angles like that?

man that seems so wrong for me... maybe thats why whenever i try to get parts for my 86 ea71 hatchback they try to give me ea81 parts 80% of the time; THAT is really frustrating, if not for that I'd be on my way to the beach right now not sitting on the computer at home

even better is if you can keep them from lighting up the hood of the car.... sucks having it all lit up, ruins your vision for the stuff further away with not so much light on it.

Pics? no? well that sounds like quite a bit of fun, dont like stopping in the middle of something like that to get out and take pics lol... sounds like quite a rush. I cant wait till I can do similar stuff again :-\

I'll take it, intake manifold too while you're at it, how much for shipping to 97213?

So monday I buy a new oil pump for my hatch from thirfty auto supply; not because it needs it but because I got the car a while ago but havent driven it much and now I plan on driving it more and I do this for a preventive maintainence type reason. I get it together, turn it on, let it run for a couple minutes and then I realized its just spewing oil out around the oil seal(like every drop that should be going through the oil train instead) and quickly as I can pull the coil wire(and shocked the s**T out of myself). something in the pump is defective, so I take it back to them and say hey, this is a bad pump, I want my money back, and then they tell me: "sir, we have to send it back to the manufacturer which will take 4-6 weeks minimum, to have their engineers look it over and tell us if its bad or not. we'll take the pump back but we're not going to give you anything for it untill the manufacturer says it was a manufacturer defect" so I'm like !@#(^(*& and go get a new oil pump from IWA(VERY good parts store btw) and put it on, and it ran great, ran it for about 15 minutes, and then shut the motor down and let it cool down, came back out about an hour later to drive it, and guess what, #3 rod bearing is spun and has the worst knock I've ever heard. It was a good motor before this.