mykingcrab

here is some great info,and if you want to go all out and do it with the right (cheap tools), harbor freight sells a vac pump for 9.00/guages for 40.00. scroll down for the pump.[/url] http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Category.taf?CategoryID=446&pricetype= this site will explane what you need to know. http://members.tripod.com/~jbabs714/autoac.htm:cool: i recomend reading all of it. everyone could do this WITH KNOWLEGE AND SAFETY employed.

man that things bad:burnout: too bad they wont produce them.

Found a great site, some of you that know already,please dont attack,those that have not,WOW this will be a treat. I love seeing a 4 door seadan kickn but in 2006 rally thats great. http://www.faberit.com.au/RXRally/index.html also there is a great tribute video to Richard Burns. and make sure to click on MORE INFO under picks, because it goes into great detail and more photos. and on ther home page there is a ton of stuff too. on video catagory there is good stuff too, p2 subaru. the badest sube :burnout: ive ever seen . :cool: enjoy

Some of you may have seen it already, had to share. http://www.faberit.com.au/RXRally/index.html Click on videos and scroll down to p2 concept car.OMG........... I tried to link but failed. also their is a great tribute to Richard Burns, and a load of great rally picks/ videos on alot of stuff.. thnx.

TO MUCH TOW IN. Ive allready fixed mine.

cobcob,let me know how that goes.(HIJACK)also crawl under the rear of you wagon,look for a sticker on the rear diff. to see if your new wagon has a L.S.D. i CAN PROBABLY GET THAT 5SPD TURBO P/T D/R TRANS FOR YOU LOCAL. :burnout:

my 85 rx has the flapper door type. do I remove it to clean or on the car?

I sent you a P.M. neighbor. :burnout:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49980

OK, as a follow up to suggestions to resolve my fluttering problem, this cleaning is on the list. Its a FLAPPER TYPE. Question. Is there a proceedure? Do I remove and spray w/cleaner?Idont think I want that crap in the motor oR DOES IT MATTER? do it in place?

Very good:cool: ill be trying to fix this problem tomorrow,will definatly keep everyone posted when i find the culperate:burnout:

Cool. if my check list doesnt fix it this will be next. Does any one have a source? or a price? THNX everyone

this all seems to be helpfull. On the temp sensor, how does it directly alter performance? where /what is it signaling. what changes? Also,THAT EXCEL COIL IS OUT A THERE AS SOON AS I GET HOME!!!!!!!!!! I didnt put it in there,it was on there,eitherway its history..... I have an 85 gl10 turbo wagon for parts in the back yard. Although its converted to a carb engine im sure that the stock coil is the one thats there.

exactly right.

Great, easy enough.Thnx:)

It flutters thru out the entire throttle range.. it has NEVER NOT fluttered Its less noticable when its floored. and it seems to run strong(for what it is) and boost 7lbs everytime. a fewtimes it seems more cleaner and more powerfull. ANOTHER THing I didnt mention Is THat the TURBO light on the dash never works consistantly. IS that the same problem (corrodded plugs). also the motor is 87 controlls are 85.flapper MAF

Ive been driving ROXY fulltime lately and have grown to love her. Problem: Fluttering under normal conditions. runs good in general but sometimes under boost runs cleaner at times.,all plugs,wires,cap,rotor,fuel filter are new. Weve talked about this before and havent had a chance till now to fix it. Could it be the ACCEL coil? my friend says they are crap.Could it interfear with the igniter? It was suggested to clean plugs/connectors on the thermosensors, h.a.c (altitude sensor),ect. did I miss anything? Also I was thinking maybe vacuum leaks? What is the best method for both? Are there any chemical cleaners that work? And also whats the best method to find vacuum leaks? Thanks again:cool:

Nice work bro, Its amazing how much you can move steel around with some insentive.

sweet, man that lincoln locker makes a huge difference. Hows life in the ej world?

(1)Find a donor car. (2)Get a dewalt cordless sawsall or portable torches.(some places rent them). (3)mark your line. CUT INFRONT OF THE TOWERS ON THE DONER even though you probaly wont use it all. (4) cut from right in front of the strut tower straight down thru all layers,repeat other side. (5) take you clip home. (6)repeat the same steps on your wagon. it starts to get tricky here. on you wagon strip everything off and out of the way. (7)GLOYALe/TURBONE ARE ON IT.get a spot welding drill and find a seam with spot welds and drill them out. if you cant a seam, one that easily provides separation point were you need (I cant see without beeing there/same concept on all unibody) to the begining of the damaged area, you will mark and cut . (8) dont complicate it its pretty simple. (your damage is not a dangeous structural issue infront of the towers.) when you reattatch you can make some gussetts(1/8thx1 inch flat stock steel with 2 holes and nuts and bolts) to join and tempararily hold the joint together.do this at several spots. this will insure your ability to adjust before welding. (9) weld/braze and repaint.reasemble. you could massage alot and get it close as earlier suggested. it does work. a person would be surprised how much it can be manipulated. both small and large movements. Good luck

Subaru factory 14s,ea82 wheels I got from meeky moose. He had them shipped from Germany Please forgive my crappy photo and photoshop center caps. I need to put on my shorter lugs (IHAVE) to put the center caps on. they look sharp.

These CENTERLINES were made for the original owner by a Centerline employee. 14x8 rear wheel drive offset. 140mmx4 was drilled into the center piece as a favor. I called 8 years ago to get another set and they said"no way". To this day MELOW YELLOW still drives this brat on these undamaged wheels. He has plans of having them polished again soon. this was my brat @10 years, then I sold it and mellow yellow put $3000.00 in it.he saved the custom body, and cut out and fiberglassed all the rust from the ground up.

Albie, I spoke to you on the phone about buying the EA82 kit (WITH OUT) 4 inch front strut towers , as I explained ON THE PHONE I already have AA 4 INCH STRUT TOWERS. What I do need is: (1) EA82 kit (WITH OUT) the front strut towers (1) EA82 4 inch SKID PLATE. Can you adjust the cost and p.m. me how much. and when they will be ready .thanks.