mikeshoup

Do it with the engine running, or you'll probably get other codes that aren't related. IE: CAS

This is the second time I've posted this today. Wonder if there'll be a third: If the CEL is on, do not plug any in. The ECU will flash the codes at you that are present. If you want to see what codes have occured in the past (only really useful if the CEL is intermittent), connect the white/black connectors. If you want to run a dealer-check mode, connect the green ones. There's actually a whole procedure for running the D-Check. So, its really not useful unless you know what the procedure is. NOTE: The CEL doesn't flash. There's an LED on the side of the ECU that flashes.

If the CEL is on, do not plug any in. The ECU will flash the codes at you that are present. If you want to see what codes have occured in the past (only really useful if the CEL is intermittent), connect the white/black connectors. If you want to run a dealer-check mode, connect the green ones. There's actually a whole procedure for running the D-Check. So, its really not useful unless you know what the procedure is. NOTE: The CEL doesn't flash. There's an LED on the side of the ECU that flashes.

The shoes are really easy to replace. First, turn the adjuster so that its all the way in (I forget which direction that is) Then, remove the castle nut and the drum. Remember where all the springs and clips go, this is important. Remove the springs and clips, being careful not to lose the hold down pins. Pull the shoes off. Place new shoes on in the exact same orientation. Replace springs and clips. Replace drum and castle nut. Adjust the shoes. Do this by turning the adjuster as far as it goes so that the drum won't turn. Then turn the adjuster back one half turn. Should be able to spin the drum freely without too much resistance from the shoes. Remember to adjust the shoes. I do this about every other oil change on my EA81. Also, now's a good time to check those brake cylinders in the drums. Both mine were leaking on my 84, so I replaced 'em. $15/ea at the local auto parts store. Also's a good time to bleed those brakes.

In the future, have him look up parts for an 84. They will all be the same parts, however, in 1984 there wasn't the confusion of having two hatchbacks.

I have the paper FSMs I'll sell you. Make an offer if you want 'em.

I honestly don't understand this revving that high anyways. The SPFI loses power considerably at about 6000-6500. It'll climb higher, but there's just no power there. Upshift to let it get back in the power band, and you'll go much quicker.

For the BRAT, you need a 1984 FSM.

Ah c'mon, that still looks usable

My EA82 SPFI made power up to about 6500. They were pretty high reving motors.

6500RPM on the EA81T... it just stops making power after about 5500rpm, so there's no reason to pull past that.

All SPFI cars have a second cat there. Yours is a second cat. Not a resonator.

Let it run for a bit. When I dropped the used SPFI engine into my car, it smoked. A lot. After idling for about 10 minutes, it pretty much stopped. Keep an eye on the oil pressure though in case its burning crankcase oil.

From what I can tell in the FSMs, the Turbo and non-Turbo have the same damn tank. My Turbo doesn't run out of fuel with a quarter left in the tank.

FYI: Dogs are loyal. Your care is a Loyale :-p

Sounds mostly like a head gasket issue. Could also be simply the intake mani gaskets. Its a little troubling that you see it out your exhaust and in the engine compartment.

CSM decides that we have to go to school on Labor day. Wouldn't be able to make it. Sorry.

It better be mint and entirely problem free with that price...

That's eyesore's old hatch. Can't believe he's selling it. Its definitely a cool hatch.

The speedometers don't have any calibration on it themselves. The difference is that the transmissions use a different speedometer gear ratio for the tire sizes. You *might* be able to pull apart a transmission from one of the cars that 185/70/13 was stock and swap the speedo gears.

Actually, changing just the width while maintaining the same aspect ratio (the series) will effect rolling diameter. The series is what percentage of the width the tire is tall. So if you had 100mm wide tires with a 70 series, they'd be 70mm tall. Ergo, a 165/70 tire will have a smaller rolling diameter than a 185/70 tire. However, 10mph off is not correct. A 165/70/13 tire will have an overall diameter of 22.09 in. A 185/70/13 tire will have an overall diameter of 23.19 in. The overall difference is around 5%. What does this mean? Your speedometer reads about 5% slow. When you're traveling 100mph, your speedometer will read 95mph. When you're traveling 10mph, your speedometer will read 9.5mph. Extrapolate from there. 10mph off? hardly.

I found all you have to do, unbolt the lower control arm and the swaybar. Then I lay under my car and push the bottom of the tire out with my feet while my hands are pushing the cup off the trans. Seems to work fine.

I believe the sealed beams are H6054? Seem to remember that.

It'd be easier to swap on an EJ alt of some sort. EJ alts are very similar to XT6 alts.

If that's the case, go to an autoparts store and just get a generic H4 head lamp. $15, and it won't leak. $85.00 is a ridiculous price to pay for a sealed beam. What's confusing is GL-10s come stock with the rectangular that have a separate bulb from the housing. Only the DL EA82s came stock with the H4 sealed lamps. I don't know why you'd want to try and reseal a sealed beam when they are dirt cheap to replace.