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yeah theres a cable underneath the dash kind of by the relays that connects the antenna wire to the extention wire that reaches the deck

should still work. I cut my antenna off at the mount because it kept getting bent when I was wheeling and it wouldnt push down in the a pillar anymore. I still get radio from about 20 miles away with a 1/4 stub sticking out. maybe you wire popped out of the back of the stereo and its coincidence that it happened at the same time you pushed the antenna down

bump.. someones gotta replaced these on a EA series car

easy fix I just did this last weekend. broke both bolts. easy way take a lag bolt and run it up through the lift block and crossmember hole through the floor so u know where to air hammer. then trim out the metal on the floor with an airhammer it has a captive nut (junk piece of metal thats threaded, isnt even a nut) I replaced the bolt from bolt head on top with the nut on the underside so if it breaks or comes lose at least the bolt stays in there and keeps stuff aligned. He most likely didnt do anything wrong. It happens with the lifts. you are adding a 4 inch longer bolt that flexes and the captive nut is very very mild steel. fix should take bout 20 min a side. I used a 5 1/2 inch long bolt 7/16 diameter. pm me if u need anymore help

If it doesnt leak oil, its not a subaru...

offset rims FTW.. also on the back u might have to do some trimming behind the back doors. I'm going to be attempting to run 235/75/15's on yota redrills. IIRC those are 29.5 inch tires I fit tested on the front. with the 4 inch lift a little use of a bfh should take care of it in the front. numbchux thanks for the heads up on the control arm on the rear.

winters coming fast up here in alaska and I cant deal with the air leaks at my door glass anymore. Has anyone found a supplier for new rubber door seals/gaskets? EA82 wagon btw I'm mainly looking for the window seals (ones that start at the A pillar and run up over the window to the b pillar) more than the door seals but both would be great. I've adjusted the hell out of my door glass trying to get it to seal tighter and have used butyl tape around edges to attempt to get it to seal. if anyones got some info plz let me know while I still have money :lol:

I'm starting to wonder if thats whats making the vibration in the front end of my EA82. I put adjustable springs on it off my old 86 struts and then bought 2 wheel drive struts. at 50-60 mph I get a bag shimmy in my front end. anything over 60 its smooth. tires are balanced, new balljoints, tierods struts radius rod bushings.. Kelly did EMPI make axles for the older cars?

you better go run it through some mud with the covers off. that engine is waaayy to clean

wow kelly is still alive.. good to hear from you too. You comin through the banks any time soon?

That front bumper is FTW.. I need one like that for my ea82 wagon

goto the junkyard pull em and put em in ur pocket, walk out

I get mine at the dealer. Napa spring pins are made out of very cheap grade metal. Its worth the 4 dollars a piece for OEM pins. I bought 4 new ones when I got my car and still have the same pins. If you use the correct size punch (6mm or 7/32 inch roll pin punch) they will out last the life of the car

well the fuel pump wires run down through the back seat and there is only 2 of them. I'd go get u colors of the wires but my car is covered in wires

maybe mine where wore out. when I did the accord front spring swap when I took the EA82 Struts apart I used a compressor on the first one and laughed at how compressor took the spring down a 1/4 of an inch and it was loose. I guess use a compressor so u dont get hurt and blame me

yes rear springs can be compressed by hand. Make sure to have a buddy help you because taking it apart the top cap might getcha in the face. As for putting them back on, have buddy push down on top cap and u put the nut on Strut - Sensa-Trac - Rear NS 71222SS $50.99 Strut - Sensa-Trac - Rear NS 71223SS $50.99 Thats from the napa website. The 222 has 6 inches of travel, the 223 has 6.175 inches . So technically the 223 is the actual 2wd strut

disty could be failing. my 86 did the same thing and I tried everything except disty, finally did it car drove for 100k more miles how you are saying it cuts on wide open and then starts to correct itself when you let back off. this is the same thing mine did. I'm not positive thats whats wrong with urs but worth a shot. Disty may be hard to find because its gotta be off a MPFI non turbo. and IIRC its gotta be 1985/1986. I paid 75 bucks for it

Take the insurance total money, buy the car back from the insurance company for 500 bucks, get it fixed for 2 grand (I worked at a body shop we've fixed a lot worse for 2 grand) and then file a lawsuit against the driver that hit the car

The list starts.. twin traction beam front suspension - junk (lets design a front end that kills brand new tires in 4 months) triton engines - junk (pull the entire intake just to get the engine out, not to mention 24 hrs of labor to R&R and engine) Ford Rangers - money pits Ford water pumps on the older 302 and 351 fuel injection - junk (entire front of engine has to come apart just to get the water pump off) early V-6 2.9L - junk (if you've ever changed an intake manifold on one you understand) 1996+ ford taurus radiator (had to be dropped out the bottom of the car) pre 1996 taurus engine/tranny (have to pull the entire H frame just to get the transmission out) I can continue all day if u like. Like I said, I've made lots of money fixing them, and they are JUNK Bout the only decent ford product made is the 300 6 cylinder.. bulletproof engine

well since mines 4wd the colors/connectors are most likely different You have Reverse light sensor, and I cant remember what the other sensor does. I'll try to stop by where I used to work and check out a harness on a fwd for u Either way those wires wont have anything to do with driveability. Only thing on that harness that controls the car running is going to starter engergize wire which is the black one

lol dub post sorry

for future reference when I get one thats rusted to the pinion flange I take out the bolts and put it in gear under power just for a second. it will spin it loose

good car for a younger person. if I had the money I'd be driving a STi not just the reg wrx too slow for me lol As long as she keeps an eye on timing belts, oil changes ever 3000 miles (turbo cooked oil arggggg.) and doesnt get speeding tickets she will be fine. as far as fords go, I've made a lot of money fixing them, but I will NEVER own a ford. Found on the road dead.. F'd over rebuilt dodge.

I have an 86 4wd.. so I can help a lil bit. the round connectors ARE NOT test connectors. EA cars use rectangle connectors for the test connectors and they are located next to the wiper motor on close to the drivers side strut tower. Fuel pump on all EA82 cars are located infront of the passenger rear tire underneath the car. Fuel pump is ran from a reference pulse from the coil Keep in mind EA82 carb coil wires are backwards. Black is positive yellow is negative. Haynes manual has decent wiring diagrams in the electrical section well worth 20 bucks

w000t another nice wagon I'm leaning more and more towards carb'd EJ22.. I dont have the time to have my car down for a few days while I do the wiring for fuel injection.