torxxx

what kind of wheel are you looking to use? I put one out of a 98 Legacy GT in mine and all I had to do was grind a taper into the new wheel. Used a dremel tool took about 5 tries to get it to fit right. Been on there for 8 months and never came loose

I'll get everything together scott and see what the difference is going to be. I'm sure we can make an adapter for the starter

get rid of the EJ22 and just run a EJ25D

yeah stick with the ej20g.. lot lighter too than the EG33

I am more for the adapting the starter idea. There has to be a way to make something work. I dont like the idea of drilling the flywheel either. (Main reason why I havent put a ej25 in my car) I got some burn't trannys at the shop and flywheels and all that, I think I'm going to look at it and see if there is a way to make it work. perhaps using an impreza starter (different shape and length)

sharp lookin hatch

I've encountered two of them this year. high school kids with EA82's, I still have the head, pm me if your interested in pics

yea lets just say low light makes it HARD to see 3 foot dips in a snow covered trail. I found a decent tabletop today. its about 6 to 7 feet tall, 14 feet across nice 20 degree landing ramp. Might attempt it this weekend if it stays warm

heh, get it off any way you can.. if you use a 22 mm to hold the water pump shaft and a extra long 10mm wrench thats the easiest. Once you get the clutch/fan off, throw it away and rig up another electric fan. Not only does the clutch/fan sound like a helicopter, it will wear your water pump bearings out faster.

Soft brake pedal or if you have to pump them once or twice.. check pads, bleed brakes and GET rid of the drums in the back....

if you get a stubborn one, heat up the head with a torch next to where the bolt is.. once its hot, spray from PB blaster around the bolt. (DONT BREATHE THE FUMES THE PB BLASTER WILL VAPORIZE) the heat helps suck the PB blaster into the threads. make sure you antiseize the hell out of the bolts when you put the intake back on

Dunno bout what everyone else says about napa axles. I've had great luck with them. They are the only axles I buy (front anyways) What reman'd axles come down to is you need to look at what you are buying. Check the splines, check the threads and make sure you check the boots for cracks. I've seen axles that had boots with cracks in them right out of the box. As for rear axles, i pull them off parts cars at the shop. I've NEVER replaced a rear axle on a customers car.. For some reason only my lifted wagon is the only one up here that shreds axles.

I think thats a turbo vs non turbo water pump, or one uses N/A pulleys and the other one uses a different style turbo pulley that actually has bolts holding it to the water pump vs N/A and the water pump studs. Tycho mentioned something about that to me a few weeks ago. Shouldnt matter as long as the belts line up though. might need a few flat washers behind the pulley

lol. car looks awesome, but I dont wanna pay the axle replacement bill.... as for the comment bout turbo and lack of low rpm torq... remember the idea of mudding is WHEEL SPIN. once those start spinning, they aint gonna stop.

You checked your brake fluid yesterday, today you are out rallying and hit something at 65 and your brake fluid light comes on from being airborne. Never seen that before in 10 years of driving my car. Glad I had my seat belt on or I would ended up on the ceiling.

couldnt you do about the same effect to camber if you used some sort of strut shim on the top? seems like you could tilt the strut a little bit and get the same result without cutting into a control arm. I dont like the idea of cutting into a control arm (unless it was gonna be straight custom A arm or somethin.) I could see what would happen.. -40F outside, hit a pothole or a curb and you just snapped a control arm

wow.. I've only witnessed one EA82 with a bent valve and I assume the same thing caused it.. But to see a EA82 N/A with a hole in the piston is amazing.. maybe I wont deck my heads down.. lol

same here... pretty bendy sheet metal.. mines been bent up and down prolly 50 times

torque settings? heck I just put them tight. never had one come loose. then again, 10 years of working on the same car, you get used to what 10, 12 and 14 mm bolts should be torq'd to

hehe happened to me 2 years ago.. but I had 6 lights on at once, came around a hairpin corner and there was a cop sitting. apparently in the state of alaska its only legal to have up to 4 "headlights" on at once when you are in city limits.

15w40 fleet oil year round

timing belts and cam seals should take about an hour to do. heres a little hint: leave the timing belt covers off after you put the belts on. you dont need them, and the next time one breaks, it takes about 20 minutes to do

sharp lookin car... good to see another ak member.. now when i come down to anchorage we'll have to get together and go hit up some trails. Jim creek in the spring would be a blast!

hahahaha.. yours weighs 2700 lbs and you are worried??!?!!? my lifted wagon weighed in at 3500 pounds last year. that was before a spring upgrade. They handle just fine as is in offroad situations. You could be running a 4500 lb jeep or a 8000 lb truck with 1 ton axles. I really dont see why you are worried about weight. Adjust suspension accordingly and go for it. You mentioned a EJ swap, the EJ will have more than enough power to deal with added weight of winches and big tires

Been there done that with a carb'd EA82.... Front Pinion gear had 6 teeth missing, 1st gear was gone, 4 hi gear has 2 teeth missing and 4 low was spun completely bald........ funny thing was I drove it like that for a while... til I found another dual range This was before I put my lift on