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I agree with the RWD makes soobs more driveable. I drove my 86 wagon and a 85 brat in RWD and I loved it. way more fun to drive, easier to steer. I ran my wagon for a year in RWD and didnt see any ill effects on the tranny.

John - I'll check at the shop tommorow and see if any of Jims EA81 cars have them still on the engine. We got a new one in the other day. One thing I would like to add for subaruthless, the car has been having those problems before the carb rebuild. It happened last winter, we switched the carb and disty (thanks to northguy). It ran good for a few months and then started doing it again

good to see you finally posted son.... hopefully someone heres got some advice for ya

I had to convert 25 spline axles to 23 today at work. I was amazed at how fast one can do them. takes about 2 minutes to cut the old band off, pull the retainer ring, swap cups slide boot back, reband it.

I love the blue RX. the red stripe kills it though the rims would look good on my RX.. I want em

thanks legacy777. makes me wonder if they put a different tranny in that car then. I'll get the ###'s off the tranny and we can cross reference that. Unless its another rare case of mismarked tires (but I think that rarely happens, seen it once)

The electric fan has a thermoswitch that usually comes on around 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up the temp gauge. AC doesnt have anything to do with the fans on these cars. Yes a lot of people have bypassed the switch. Its fairly easy to do. IIRC the fan has constant power and the thermo switch controls the ground (might be the other way around, but check it with a multimeter just to make sure) search around the board and you'll find a diagram

wow. that tops the EA series wrecks I've seen (work at a body shop).

Got a 90 Legacy Sedan at work with a automatic in it. Car hops all over the road when driving it. It has matching tires on it and the guy that gave it to us said that someone else put the car together wrong and he thought it was the rear diff. Kinda made me wonder. This one has a 4.11 rear diff in it. Sound right? I'm a old gen guy and dont know much about the ratios on legacys so I figured I'd hit you new gen guys up. What should the rear diff ratio (on the sticker) be for this car?

thanks for the link man.. very useful.. should be added to the USRM.

Got a Code 13 on a 88 Hatch 2WD feedback carb. Some @sshole at work cut pages out of my manual on emissions stuff so I have no clue what this code means. Anyways, quick response would be great, just came home to throw this on the board during my lunch break thanks in advance

depends. If your county/state has under the hood inspection, probably not. If they just do a tail pipe test, the yes it very well could pass the test. Get it adjusted right and it'll pass fine.

IIRC a wrx clutch disc has the same amount of splines as a EA82 clutch disc.. if you want to spend the money and not have to worry about it, look into that WJM is the one who knows about it.... I think

DO NOT USE IMPACT TOOLS when removing the exhaust studs. that will cause the threads to strip in the head.

its got solid pipes but they should have some flex in them. enough to set the air pump to the side, or flip it over onto the battery box. Unless you have a different setup than the usual stock. I've pulled engines without purging the freon. If not, they make a storage container that plugs into one of the fittings ont he AC lines. it just takes the freon out of the system and stores it into a bottle. Then you can squirt the freon back in when you are done.

the kit I saw had everything you needed to do the conversion. I'll try to get a part # next time I goto napa

run regular 80-90 weight in it and make sure you get a tube of Limited Slip Additive. Redline also makes a LSD gear oil but its pretty spendy.

running a T-case would lower the gearing, so it should work.

its a 91... I dont think you need to get the flywheel resurfaced unless the flywheel side of the clutch disc is worn down to the rivets. The way they designed the discs, the pressure plate side almost always wears down before the flywheel. You can do it in the car, but its alot easier to lift the engine out. Take radiator out disconnect fuel lines/heater core lines remove rubbber air intake boot unclip the two main elec bundles and disty wires right below the coil unbolt power steering pump (leave hoses hooked up) unbolt AC compressor (leave hoses hooked up) should sit where the battery goes to get it out of the way. drop exhaust (4x14mm nuts) engine mounts (2x14mm nuts) unbolt 4 bell housing bolts (14 mm) pitch stopper/throttle cable and you should be set to pull it out. If you have a engine hoist you can do this job in about 3 hrs if its your first time

do it yourself. napa sells 134a kits for like 40 bucks just make sure you get the conditioner with it (oil)

I agree with Brian.. I just walked out and looked at my RX and the body kit you posted is NOT stock. I'm sure overseas may have offered a aftermarket body kit because of all the JDM stuff

Austin did you find any adverse effects of running the AWD that way? it doesn't throw the TCU off or change the shift patterns? The 4EAT seems to be a pretty weak transmission from all the swaps I've done at work.

grant, crap I didnt even see you are in alaska. what part? Ok knowing its automatic, it is clutch plates that run the RWD part of the AWD. You can get to it with the tranny in the car, just have to unbolt the Y pipe and engine mounts and jack the front of the engine up. I've rebuilt the clutch discs in the car before. its just messy because you'll have ATF dripping out of the tranny.

IIRC they do have a center diff, but its a clutch pack so there wont be any welding... I could be wrong, but last time I saw one torn apart, I saw clutch plates due to the AWD. The 2002 is new enough that its a electronically controlled AWD system (constantly changing power front to rear)

black smoke can also be caused by the Fuel injector shorting out and blowing too much fuel into the cylinders. I've seen that on 3 cars this year. Basically flooding the engine out. Any CEL codes?