torxxx

I'm with the guys that are sayin SPFI... sounds WAAAAY easier... and the only time german and japanese go together is world war 2.. as far as cars go, dont mix em

so SPFI on any of the L-series wagons/sedans? I'm tryin to think what you guys call them down there. the legacy is the liberty correct? so any EA series from 94-90 should have SPFI... unless they kept carbs on them in those years.. if they did, I want one!

12x1.0 IIRC. If no one else posts up an answer I will check one at work tommorow for ya

man I swear you took those pics from my car. it looks identical. problem with mine, its had a slight rod knock for almost a year now. No use in resealing an engine that could die at any time. lol

thanks guys, I checked the duty c solenoid and it was unplugged.... God I hate ATF... havin that crap run down your armpits when you unbolt the tail shaft. thanks again

any tranny shop should sell the rebuild kits for the AWD. Its not a 800 dollar job. You can do it your self. Remove your y pipe and rear drive line. loosen engine mounts, put a hoist on the engine to hold the engine where it is. go under the car and remove the tranny x-member and the tail shaft will sag down enough that you can get to all the bolts on the tail shaft. take out the bolts, pull off the tail shaft, make sure you unplug the wire going to the selinoid and theres your AWD clutch pack. there should be 6 steel and 6 fiber clutch discs in there. just make sure you have the end rings in the right place and replace the steel and fiber discs in the order they came out of the tail shaft.

dave, why not just run conventional exhaust if he's gonna remove the turbo? I've heard bad things about running a turbo exhaust on a N/A engine. (damn uneven header lengths = no power)

hehe, another thing for my skid plate to break off.

I've been told the same as snowman, but I have my doubts about the subaru dealer. When I first asked them about the tranny ratios, they said "we only replace parts with new factory parts" sO I said, you know I figured a subaru tranny was a factory part and hung up on them. Do a search, I had a thread about this that I started a few months ago.

Just make sure you keep running synthetic. Once you run synthetic your engine basically becomes addicted to the thinner, smoother oil. Switching to conventional and back to synthetic again will make all your seals in the engine leak. 10w30 synth should be fine for a winter down there. I've ran 15w-40 fleet oil at -50F up here in alaska before. Car wasnt happy, but its still alive.

First off, unhook the sway bar link. Use channel locks to twist the strut and use a big pry bar to pry down on the control arm. When you get the old struts off, makes sure to anti-seize the end of the strut that goes into the knuckle. that way next time you gotta work on it, the strut will pop right out

Alright a guy at work rebuilt a EJ22 Auto tranny for a car I'm working on. Got the tranny put back in the car and went for a test drive. One the snow, no problems but the second you hit dry pavement its getting rear diff bind. It is the matching rear diff to the tranny. I pulled both out of another car and installed in this one. The car drove on dry pavement for a month no problems until after the tranny was rebuilt. The only thing I can think of is the guy left one of the selinoids in the tail shaft unplugged. Would this cause the rear end to want to bind up? I'm not too familiar with the auto trannys so I'm lookin for you new gen guys to give me some advice. thanks in advance.

hell yea, it makes frost heaves AWESOME. like a roller coaster. Now just if I could find a little longer travel strut and it'd be ready for some jumping.

as for the 86-89, I think it actually goes 85-90. Mine may have been off a 90, or I saw a 90 at the yard that had the same springs on it. I got mine off a car with a manual tranny and no air conditioning. I'd hate to see how stiff the automatic with AC springs would be. Best bet for mating the springs and struts is goto napa and buy a new set of sensatrac struts they are like 35 bucks a piece. well worth it because the peice of all-thread that the holds the top cap on, is VERY small on EA82 struts and I wouldnt take the chance of the threads stripping when you let off the spring compressor.

yes 90-94 legacy rear diffs use stubs in the rear. The biggest problem I've had with my legacy diff is they arent bolt on stubs. they are put in with a snap ring like the front diff. I've yanked mine out a few times when I had the 4 inch lift and accord springs in the rear. I would go for the RX 3.7 LSD unit with the 4.11 ring gear and pinion. that would solve the problems with the stubs yanking out of the diff

idea! flip the car on its side drivers side up, open raid cap.

I got some trails up here we could go down. Its supposed to snow tonite and tomorow, but it hasnt started yet. Other than that, I dont know about trails south of me.

seems like thats the popular thing to do with soobies noah. I had 3 this week come into my shop with that type of tire mismatch. IDIOTS!

the EA82 series cars use the diagonal braking also, IIRC when I blew out a rear hard line, I pinched it off with vicegrips so I could get home. Still had the opposite side brake in the back and the same side in the front

cleanin up around the shop today and decided to haul off all the burned up tranny's layin around. I was amazed at what my car will haul with the accord front springs in the rear. 1035 pounds in the back, suspension dropped about 2 inches. Probably coulda fit another 400 in there, but decided half a ton was enough weight. I highly recommend doing the spring upgrade.

Hatchers Pass! nah I really dont know. the only time i spend in Hickville (trappers creek) is driving through, and I try to get outta there as fast as I can. Kelly still in Haines?

Torxxx is available depending on how far he has to drive. remember, it costs me the most for these meets!

hell yea dave. looks sweet! I wonder if they make those in a anodized blue?!?!

the reason why I said what I did, I work at a auto body shop. we fixed wrecked soobys. I've seen two or three taht actually twisted the control arm with the radius rod. most of them were just a bent strut and a bent radius rod. Either way, both components are the weak link in the IFS on a subaru. I say they need double wishbone IFS, that way there is no need for radius rods. Hell for double wishbone, ball joints would be more spendy, but the ride would be AWESOME

I wouldnt even go that serious on the rear diff hanger drop down. I used 1 3/4 inch square tubing, drilled holes in it. took about 10 min to fab up and 10 min to install. 15,000 miles on it and have had no problems