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Chux - I got a 92 FSM EJ22 in PDF format if you need it. its like 12 megs or so, so if you got a decent email account I can send it or on msn. Let me know

just over torq them a lil bit when you finish the rotation. I torq mine to 55 lbs instead of the rec 47 lbs... havent had any problems on ANY of the rebuilds I've done

I rule out cam seals being blown out. I've seen quite a few run with the seals popped all the way out. Your PCV valve may have stuck on a turn and blew oil into the cylinders. what you described sounds like my car in the winter when my carb gets iced up.

Alright. yea I'd prolly take all the stuff you want to get rid of. even if the rear x-member stuff is 2 inch, that'd be fine. I just wanna be able to go 4wheelin again

I'd remove the honda springs,but I love the way they ride.. I can fill the car up with engines and the suspension moves maybe an inch. Numbchux - if you wanna part with those blocks, I'd love to get my hands on them. Otherwise I was gonna order SJR's tri pipe blocks and make my own blocks for the front. I'm trying to keep the back as high as possible (incase of getting rear ended) I'd rather have a car go underneath mine rather than smash my tail lights and rear hatch I'm saying I need more lift due to AA's type of rear lift. they used straight strut extentions instead of lowering the rear x-member like BYB does. Thats why I'm thinking combining the two (will keep the rear axles back to almost the stock angles)

bump....

You said you need extra pulleys...... I can get you about a dozen of them right now from the shop. Let me know and maybe we can work out a deal on me getting a set

oil pan can be done in the car, but you need to unbolt the exhaust, engine mounts pitch stopper and jack the engine up about 3 inches to clear the pan and the sump. With all that unbolted, you might as well pull the fuel lines, disconnect the elect stuff and yank the motor out

alright for you who dont know my car: 86 GL wagon 5 speed DR 4 inch AA lift all the way around. I added a 1 3/4" diff shim that I made myself. I also have the honda accord front spring mod for the rear struts. The extra lift from the struts are killing my axles and I pulled the stub axles out of a EJ VLSD rear diff from the added stress. Currently running 25.5 inch tires, but I wanna get 27's on it. The problem is the rear control arms are MAXED out all the way down. My problem is that I need to get a some rear x-member blocks. SJR offeres a rear 3" Rear Cross Pipe Tri-tower block but after getting under the car and looking at everything, I'm still going to need another set of blocks to lower the two braces on the front of the rear x-member. Anyone have anything designed up for that? I looked at it, and I think it can be accomplished by adding 3" square tubing, but the problem is that it needs to be 3 inches tall, 3.5" wide and 3.5" long for strength. I need to get this rolling because I'm tired of 2wd and the fear of shredding another diff and 10 more sets of axles. I'm assuming the blocks that I need are something like Ozified offers in their kit. Any ideas?

damn thats a sharp lookin coupe. I wish I had the resources you guys down in the states have. heh, I have the last running RX in my town, and WRX's are near impossible to get ahold of unless you wanna pay 15 grand for a totalled one at a auction

no progress yet. I am leaving for a month to go run my dad's commercial fishing boat. When I get back, I should have the funds to start and finish the project. I was going to start it before I left, but I'd rather just sit down for a weekend and bang it out

easy way to make sure with out getting under the car. if the donor car is a 5 speed dual range with selectable 2wd its going to be 3.9 Basically stay away from turbos and automatics and you'll be fine

you need the diagram? any haynes or chiltons manual for a subaru will show you that. from the cat back its basically straight until the rear wheel well then it bends up to tuck under the rear bumper. There is a flange at mid pipe and a flange at the muffler. two hangers on the muffler and one at 3/4 pipe

you guys need to check out the aussie subaru site. I remember seeing quite a few EA series cars with 4.11 and 4.44 gears in the trannys for somereason the farther sound you go, the eaiser the soob moddin gets. those guys got some crazy rigs

just say it..... subaru is the cause of outer tire wear....

A/C is coming off. Powersteering, shouldnt be real hard to make something work. What all has to be trimmed to get a legacy raid in there? I got one sittin at the shop. I think I will go fit test it on a junker tommorow.

easiest way is pop the lil rubber caps out of the timing belt covers. stick a finger in there and feel for the belt under tension. If nothing, you've got blown belts. There is an easier way, but u have to know what a sooby sounds like with blown belts. Just cranking on an engine, I can tell if the belts are blown. The engine will turn over about 3 times faster than it usually will

Got a 91 Legacy EJ22T sedan given to me today at work. It has a bad tranny, so I'm gonna part it out. I have an adapter plate sitting around and a blown EA82T in my RX so I figure I will give it a shot. Heres my list of what I think I need. if I forgot something, add to the list: Wiring Harness Adapter plate EJ22T w/up down pipe (will that bolt to my back half of exhaust?) EA Flywheel redrilled to EJ crank (what about just routing out the old holes a lil?) I'm going to use a WRX clutch disc and XT6 Pressure Plate. RX already as discs in the back, so that should stop it alright with 160hp behind it? What else have I forgot?

86 Lifted wagon. carb'd -170,000 miles - Daily Driver for 6 or 7 years 88 RX coupe - Project Car..... not running.. soon to be ej22t powered

If its a 87 GL is either going to be a automatic or a Dual range. They didnt put the push button 4wds in GL wagon/sedans. Only the DL came with the ************button 4wd. As far as the axles go, anything 5 speed with variable 2/4wd the axles will all the the same. Turbo front axles will not it

I got a set of those for 35 bucks a piece in town I'll check at work tommorow and see what brand I got. Prolly the same as the pic posted. Mine look just like that

I didnt want to hijack a post from gunslinger so here it is: I havent ever measured newer subarus rack and pinion steering. Foresters seem bigger closer to our EA series cars so how bout using a forester rack on lifted rigs? As far as the length, its adjustable with the tierods. Are the newer racks more "heavy duty" because of the raised horsepower?

heh, I'm pretty sure I could snap those

you said your camber was messed up on one side. I'd look at your struts. sounds like you may have bent a strut or a strut tower. I say this because these types of subarus dont have adjustable camber on them, unless you have the adjustable shocks and the bad side was cranked all the way up and the other side was left stock. Even with adjustable shocks your camber shouldnt be that far off. As for checking the leading rod, jack the front off the ground and shake the tire front to back an check for movement. it shouldnt move at all. All subarus tend to wear out the outer edge of the tires first due to IFS. Just like the Ford twin traction beam front suspension.

yeah I have 4 inches+ the accord front spring conversion in the back so I'm guessing 6 or 6 1/2 inches of stress on the rear axles. I think EA82 rear diff is going back in it. I'd rather shred axles then pull stub shafts out.