torxxx

please keep me informed on the swap. my lifted wagon should be getting the same engine here in the next 3 months.

Yes but you did get an engine that was 100-115 hp up to 200 hp. That's a pretty big accomplishment with such a small outdated engine. I wish my car had 100 hp... it'd be nice

I use chevy small block thermostats. They are the same size (54 mm) without the jiggle pin. Drill two 1/8 inch holes opposite of each other and they work just fine. Using chevy thermostats means all different types of temp ranges. I found thermostats from 155 degrees all the way up to 220 degrees

easiest way to do it too, find a suspension shop and pay them to change the springs and brackets over to the new struts. They'll have the right tools, they should be able to do both rear struts (off the car) in about 15 minutes and it should only cost about 30 bucks

cheapos at napa for 18 bucks a piece. or if you want decent sensa trac struts, they are 50 bucks a pop part # 71222ss They are RX rear struts heh, I have a set sitting right next to me, still in the box

I wish my wagon looked as good as yours! Awesome setup for the cd player.

Well, I finally got tire of hitting the seat rails with my old seats so I decided to move up to a legacy seat. I was amazed at how easy the conversion is. All you need is 4 12 mm bolts 1 inch long and washers and nuts. Had to drill new holes in the legacy seat, but other than drilling 4 holes, it was a straight bolt up swap. The legacy seat sits about 2 inches higher than a stock seat so I dont recommend this swap for anyone over 6'3" or so. I'm going to try it with a impreza seat tommorow and see if it sits a little lower.

87, thats gen 3 I believe ebay for the flares

http://www.subarubrat.com he's got some nice flares

well, on the loyale, 55 mph should be around 2550 rpms in 5th gear with stock subaru tires (185/70/13) and the guy above me is right on the tranny's dont have anything special in them. They are not electric controlled tranny's like the newer legacys and outbacks have. sounds like speedo problems to me. the needle starts to catch on mine at 55. then when I hit realistic 70, the speedo jumps up really fast. made me think I had a turbo on my carb'd engine. lol

I'll almost bet its the o-ring between the cam case and the head. My 86 leaks there. it drips right down onto the exhaust and the axle and gets flung around all over the place. Another thing, look at the tranny dipstick. If you have too much oil in there, the oil will seep up the dipstick tube, then run down the side of the case and drip onto the exhaust. I had to deal with one of those at work today

it should have a fulltime 4wd 5 speed D/R in it. I dont think Rx's came with autos. At least the ones I've looked at in person

Alright. Yea I tried both directions. The thing about heating them, wont that cook the bearings? I'm thinking about just swapping control arms in the back and leaving the axles with them. I have control arms that should have good bearings in them. Its wierd that they seized in there because I just replaced the passenger rear control arm this fall before I made my trip up north. Diamond tipped drill bit might work? Hehe, I dont change boots. I won't even take apart the DOJ. I hate the smell of the grease inside. heh, I guess I shoulda used anti seeze

Well, I got underneath my car today and replaced the mustache bar and rear diff hanger. It needed it bad. When I pulled the diff hanger, the metal center of the bushing fell out. So anyways, I got two torn boots on my rear axles, and I have spares so I wanna get em swapped out. I can't get the damn roll pins out of the control arm side of the axle. I pounded the hell out of it with a sledge hammer, bent my snap on 3/16" punch in half. I'm looking for ideas to get them things outta there. I was thinking of drilling them out. Has anyone done that before? If so, what type of drill bit is going to work the best? I'm guessing those spring pins are just regular steel, but I'm not sure. Any other ideas, let me know. I gotta get the axles changed so I can go ice trackin' thanks in advance to who responds.

Don't even bother with the hill holder.. Piece of junk. I unhook it on all subaru's I drive.

Hehe. Thats like when I went to napa on Friday adn checked the price on rear axles. The guy tried selling me two seperate axles. One from a EA82 (right side) and for the left side was a 3dr hatch axle for the OHV engine. I laughed and asked if i could staighten out there computers.

Check and test connectors are the green T-connector and the single white connector next to the wiper motor under the hood right? My buddies car dies at a stoplight after the car is warmed up. I dont him to check the CEL and he came up with codes 11 13 and 24. two crank angles and a air idle valve. When I checked the CEL I got 51 42 and 34 so I'm wondering if I but it into dealer mode or something Someone wanna straighten me out of which wire needs to get connected to get the correct reading? thanks

rear main seal on the engine or the lil o-ring inbetween the head and the cam case

I use Mobil 1 Synthetic

yeah i just noticed that too. first we lose our sigs now we can't press return...... they are really pushin for donations now... lol

Alright I've heard both answers now. Some say I'll have to change the 3.7 rear diff to a 3.9 rear diff when Mr. Pink gets the 5 speed conversion done to his GL wagon with a 3AT in it. I've also heard that you dont have to change the rear diff unless we'd be changing the final drive. Well isnt changing the tranny's a form of changing the final drive? What ratio is the 3speed AT? 3.7 rear diff so I'm guessing 3.7? 5 speed D/R is 3.9 so tis final drive is 3.9? God, I hate numbers.... they scare me

all the steering/front suspension parts should pass a visual test (is the rubber boot torn?) I'm guessing you pulled apart the DOJ on the axle when the ball joint broke. Check to see if the axle seems extra floppy or if the boot looks like its more than 6 inches long. If it is, you pulled apart the DOJ and it will need the axle replaced. You may as well replace the tierod on that side along with the balljoint. Doing the other side is up to you. Check the boots on the balljoint and tie rod. If they are torn, replace em. Most people do these replacements in sets (the both sides) so that they wear close to the same. Glad to hear it happened at slow speeds and not on the freeway.

you guys sure make changing a axle a big deal. This is ALL you have to do. take the tire off, take the castle nut off, take the caliper off, the rotor and the brake pad bracket off, take the two lower strut bolts out fo the knuckle assembly. Thats it. You dont need to unbolt the top 3 strut bolts, or unbolt the control arm. There is no reason to do it. You will have more than enough room to pull the axle off the stub axle.

"cowboystrait well tell ya what friend my brat done same dam thing the oil pump is a goin and its time too get a new subie " NO you dont need a new sooby. You need to reseal your oil pump. 90% of the time the mickey mouse o-ring tears or gets sucked into the pump. The other 10% of TOD is a worn oil pump. I replaced my pump last year, I get over 85 PSI on start up and 45+psi at 2000 rpms

I've had to use a floor jack to push the sway bar up to the right spot to get the holes to line up. I got an idea about the front sway bars on these cars. Is there any reason why I couldnt make a two piece sway bar system? You'd still have the "articulation" in the front, but it would stop some of the lean on lifted rights. Instead of being a one piece all the way across, I'd cut out the middle section and just run the outer pieces in their original spot. Would this work?