MilesFox

I was going by knowing what the engines had for size, like the engine specs, 92mm bore or whatever. I think the ea71 pistons are the same diameter as ea81/ea82 but the stroke is different. I like your idea of freeing the stuck rings. I would suggest marvels mystery oil. I want to try it on a toyota van with a stuck ring. I once had a carb soob engine with a stuck piston. I soaked the cylinders overnite in PB, and the next day or 2, removed the ehads, and whacked the pistons with a block of wood and a hammer, and freed it up. Then we put turbo heads on it and ran it in a rx for 10,000 miles. That very same block is running in the monsterwedge on the xt forums to this day, from at east 6 years ago

I have a set NIB ea71 pistons with wrists and rings, packaged in wax paper, and the rings in cellophane. If the diameter of the rings work, you might be able to use it. They are in a box like they came in the mail. Let me know if this is useful for you.

I give you this information that it could work, being that the unit is standalone, and the fact i used a loyale key cylinder to start up both a 94 legacy, and a 84 brat by plugging it in place of the original one. IF the unit comes ith a schematic, you should figure it out in any car, really

for later generation cars. Waht i am saying is it will retrofit in a gl if you hook it up in the right places, and the plugs for the ign swithc match the same all the way back to ea81. I usually see them in 2nd gen legacy and first gen forester., ca.1996 up

this is the internet. you will find one

picasa web or the like. wherever the pic is viewable, right click "copy image location. then click the image icon in your reply, and paste the link. there is your picture. You learned this with windows 95

This should be stated in the owners manual as normal operation

It was probably disabled due to a lost key fob. Or it could have been disabled due to it being armed from disconnecting the battery. Somewhere there should be a reset switch near the hood latch. I have thought of retrofitting one into my 86 GL, since it pligs in-line with the ign swithc form the key, and has the same plug

change the oil, it might go away. The lifters have probably collpsed from sitting, they may pump up with a few revs and a spirited drive. run some marvels oil in the oil for the first fw hundred miles, and see if that hepls. otherwise it may need a new oil pump seal, which could have been a pre-existing symptom before this thing sat so long.

people shopping for wrx's look for un-modeed examples, because a modded example is assumed to be driven hard and beat up. And then when someone finds an un-modded examples, on comes the mods. revert to stock parts, sell the mod stuff separately. But this is coming from someone who rarely pays more than 300-500 bucks for a car

dealer add on subaru remote start/security system. you will see this kind of wireing in dealer add on fog lights and cruise control units as well

I recommend pulling hte engine for a total reseal, as you will have a much less frustrating time dealing with the lifters and followers if you are replacong the cam tower o-rings, which i would recommend with that mileage, if you are trying to chase down 400,000 miles and more! Do a reseal and switch back to 10-w 30 Read this regarding oil viscosity and oil pressure, and presumtions, truths and falses http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17963&highlight=rotella

I would think you can put it back in, and turn it as it goes to make sure all the splines engage, and same with the torque converter. Is this a 4eat or a 3at. I have swapped pump shafts around in 3at's with no problem. When are you going to come to milwaukee, if ever. I would like to organize a meet one day on the order of something like the dealer meets, at least with the capacity to gather 15 or so cars and something to keep it occupied for up to 6 hours. I have done it befoe, but not without problems with the local police, squishing cheeseburgers on railroad tracks, and almst driving into a river.

in a carb car, you can press the pedal once to set the choke when you park it, and it would be good to go. If the neutral safety switch is present , and the wireless unit installed correctly, it should only start in neutral. the oem dealer add on subaru keyless will plug into a gl ignition switch

Great stuff! I like your style. Tnakks to you for sharing your wonderful stuff. I have been using a product called NAPA Stone Guard. It comes in 16 oz aerosol cans, and had a rubbery texture that has some bounce. It must be a similar product. I like it very well inside the wheel arches and along the rocker sills.

Glad to hear. Where did you get the part?

undo the motor mount studs, the pitch bar, and jack up the trans as if you were going to pull the engine. this will make the engine come up above the framerail for easier acfess

If the turbo engine needs a head gasket, do both, replace the hoses and water pump, and be good to go. Swap the 5spd into the good body. It is al bolt in. carry over the flywheel and its bolts, trans mount and its bolts, rear diff and drieshaft. Keep the disc brakes swap the axles that go with the 5spd into the good body. swap the pedal sets

It is the one part that will cause the most trouble. If you are good, you can find one for closer to 45 bucks. or pocket items at the junkyard

You are already here.

Read into this for the crossmember mod http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=118612&highlight=project+success

I finally set on a color. I found rustoleum metallic 'gold rush'. not too gold, and it matches the already gold pinstripe on the car. It looks good to me!

All of the parts in my car were originally going to go in a brat. There is a subframe modification you can do to use ea82/xt6 control arms on the ea81 body, and this will allow you to use a whole ea82/xt6/impreza/legacy strut/knuckle/axle. You can use ej18 axles to fit your current trans, or replace the trans with one with 25 splines to use the legacy or xt axles. This mod will not require hybrid axle. Otherwise, you can make a 5 lug fit if you disassemble the donor axlesm and ehte ea81 axles, and out the outer ends of the axles on the ea81 shaft, mix and match with the right boots, etc. I do not know the exact recipe for this. There is a thread about a 2.5 brat on this forum, where shows the crossmember modifications this would be the way i would recommend Now that i answered your question in my thread, now you owe me a compliment on my car!

Rear portion of the passenger side rocker sill. The rust was scraped off with a file, and 60 grit sandpaper pinch welds, same affair POR 15 on the rusty spots. this is behind the pinchweld. This will get faberglass later. POR on the wheel arches and a few spots i missed when i had the rear suspension apart. Fiberglass using the woven stuff and the gel you mix up like bondo. the outer layer is the woven stuff. I rolled a portion of it to dupliate the roll in the rocker sill, to not have a gap in the side skirt. It's not perfect, but it's not a hole in the side of my car, either. 60 grit, light body filler, 100 grit, glazing putty, 220 grit 2 coats of stone guard black. 2 coats, 2 coats, is all it takes! Then i used white rustoleum primer, 2 coats, before painting 2.5 coats of gold. Rustoleum 'gold rush' metallic close up of texture with stone guard The gold got 2 coats of rustoleum 'automotive' clar coat. Home Depot carries a full line of rustoleum including specialty and limited products Here is my workspace in the garage. I have the lantern to see my paint up close as i'm painting. And sega genesis to end the night, no fighting over 1 player games!

If you have an ea82 body your car will be like mine. If its an ea81 body, you will have to either modify the axles, or modify the crossmember/control arms. a DOHC engine will fit the same. I used an 89 xt6 for a donor. all the driveline was bolt-up to the body. I had to modify the shifter, since my donor car was an xt. A 5spd pushbutton shifter would be a direct fit. I had to make a mount for the driveshaft, since this car was FWD to start tout. Dimensionally, all of the swap bolts in the same.