MilesFox

between both cars, you have all the parts necessary. just drill the holes out for the rear diff hanger and make a mount for the carrier bearing. use the clutch cable for the 4x4 trans as well, since the threaded part is different than the FWD

sounds like you are using the wrong mark. \use the ||| mark, not the 0 deg when lining up the crank itself

just to throw this out there, check the horn/hazard/clock fuse as it supplies constant voltage to the ecu

according to your first picture, the pressure regulator is the part where the top hose is connecting on the throttle body. there should be a vac line on th ebottom of it. if i remember correctly, the regulator is on the return side of the fuel circuit

all front bumpers will interchange. the plug for the turn lights may be different depending on which side of 1987 they are. just to add another note, wagon rear bumpers mount differently than sedan/3door

what transmission do you have? is is spfi or carb? i have swapped one into an 88 dl once. there are a few tricks depending on what you are starting with

that is pretty much THE hot-all-the-time circuit, and supplies power to the ecu. without it, you turn the car on and everything is live except for the ecu itself, without that fuse. before i figured this out on my car i was backfeeding voltage to the green wire via the toggle switch for a fog light circuit i had installed before

probably poked a hole in it.

i have done this myself. check the horn/hazard/clock fuse as well since it is 12v+ all the time

is the difference in length on the axle shaft or the splines? i currently have legacy knuckle with axle in my rx now, see my 5 lug post in this forum for pics. the extreme angles in the pics are due to forester struts, not axle lenght. but i am running 25 splines on a turbo trans

what did you do for tie rods? did you have to use different ones or adjust tnem for toe?

f'n amazing! this answers a lot of questions i have been contemplating with using legacy knuckles in the RX

your lights are probably off aim and pointing up and not on the road.

the way the wheel fell off, it would pull the axle out of the DOJ cup. aside from the boot possibly being ripped, the axle could be put back together and run again

i bet if you run a jumper cable from the pos batt terminal to the starter terminal she will go. if so, this confirms a bad cable

gotcha. you said legacy and not impreza. good point. here are some new pics: the xt6 knuckle/caliper/rotor on the legacy with FWD 91 legacy strut angle of the legacy tierod on the xt6 knuckle axle nut where it doesn't thread on all the way(bottoms out against rotor) wheel alignment with xt knuckle on legacy's tie rod, steeringis centered

i actually dont mind the idea of having to lift it for proper ride height. because if so, i would have more travel then the traditional ea82 lift. good advice on the axles, though. if i had to purchase axles, i'm sure FWD legacy would be cheaper than xt 6's. i am thinking you meant fwd legacy because the seal seat is different but now i think of it did you mean 23 spline for a non turbo xt? this is the RX so i need 25 spline axlses if this is what you meant.

you have voltage until you turn the ket because whatever bad connection you have can carry idle voltage but not the cranking voltage. i bet you a dollar it is the positive cable itself, somewhere inside the insulation or immediately where either end meets the starter terminal or the battery terminal. trust me on this one. also check the negative ground cable where it connects to the water pipe on the motor, and the negative cable at the starter where it gorunds to the bellhousing bolt.

you are correct: 98 forester strut 95 legacy knuckle and its axle/rotor/caliper i will have to take pictures of the legacy tie rod, since it is parked on the street with the xt knuckle installed. as far as the strut tops go they are a direct match. no modifications to the strut tops themselves. what you are looking at is a sirect pill off of a legacy strut assembly. i did ream the holes out slightly with a 3/8 drill but i think the strut tower is slightly distorted on the rx anyway. if there is a difference on the holes it would only be a difference of about 1/16th of an inch i already had the xt knuckle in the rx with a 2wd legacy strut. but since i was working on it i just kind of "borrowed" the whole strut from my legacy to see how it fits. once agian this notion came about for the lack of a proper xt6 axle, because the legacy axle doesnt quite fit right in the xt6 hub.

i guess no one is going to reply. i guess the one time i actually ask a question, i will have to be the one who answers it... anyway.... for the other side i am going to mock up the xt6 knuckle with the forester strut to see how that fits. the xt6 knuckle obviously will be a better match for the tie rods anyway. although i do like the idea of swapping the legacy steering rack or possibly retrofitting the entire front crossmember, that is too much work to get into.....unless i had a welder:) anyway i will keep the pictures coming, and try different combinations just to explore possibilities beyond the xt6 knuckle.

i was referring to ea82 models

check the battery cable where it connects to the starter. make sure the cround cable is secure on the starter as well. your symptoms are classic of a loose/bad connection. otherwise if everything checks out, the positive cable itself may have a break inside its insulation.

you will want to carryover the ea81 upper radiator hose to go with to reach the radiator

here are some pics to start with you can see the extreme angle of the suspension, mainly because of the forester strut. the lower control arm is fighting the swaybar to stuff this whole assembly in there. here is the tranny end of the axle here is the angle on the tierod itself and the whole assembly. According to these pictures, about how much crossmember lift would be aprropriate to offset this extreme angle if i keep the forester struts? opinions and advice please from those of you who have built lifts and installed 5 lugs please...

you can swap in the ea82 motor itself. you will have to lengthen the coil wires and you can install the battery on the other side to match(if you cut out the jack mount). there will be clearnace around the hill holder, you will have to unbolt it and bend it out the way or remvie it entirely. if you swap an the ea82 its easiest to remove the disty first, install the motor, and then the disty to clear the MC. you may have to cut off one of the tabs to the disty and mount it somewhat off center and then clock the rotor to its proper location. but it can be done, i have done a couple of them myself. you can have an ea82 motor and tranny the front struts and axles will not work unless you find a way to swap ove rthe ea82 lower control arms, since the axles are longer, and the lower control arm sits farther back on the ea82 so you will need some fab skills and a good understanding of alignment, but yet agian, it can be done. but aside from all that complicates suspension conversion, the motor swap is still practical.