MilesFox

So i have been in the middle of installing xt-6 parts on my rx for the suspension. I had one side put together when all of a sudden i just up and parted the knuckle off my 95 legacy to see how it fits. the suspension is MAXED out just to get it to fit, having a 98 forester strut in there as well, i think i should need a 2-3 inch lif to go with, can you say suspension travel? one thing i noticed is the axle angle is very extreme, as well as that of the the rod end. i will have to find my key to unlock the steering to see how straight the assembly is, and to see if the tie rod clears the knuckle, bit i think it will end up being toed out. lets just say my legacy is parked on the street with one xt-6 knuckle and 3 14 inch steelies at this moment, and drives this way. the wheel on the legacy is toed inward. so this prompts me a question. how different are legacy knuckles form imprezas? since the legacy is definately different than the xt-6. i ask because i want t onow what the options are for tie rod lenght and where it fits in relation to the knuckle. i will have to take some measurements so long as i know which way to measure it for comparison(are there such dmensions for tie rod mounts in relation to the hub?) another thing i noticed is the legacy axle doesnt quite fit right on the xt knuckle, since the seat on the spindle interferes withthe seal on the xt knuckle, and the threads arent quite long enough to take up the entire nut. (and this is why i tried fitting the legacy knucke in the rx, because i dont have xt6 axles) i have some pics but i need to upload them and what is the possibility of swapping steering racks between the legacy and the rx and withthe ide aif a lift in mind. how about the whole front crossmember? (yes i know i will have to account for the lower control arm mount as well) i am almost willing to tear my legacy apart just to compare parts.

just to add to this post, the axle nuts and related cone and flat washers are interchangeable between any ea81 and ea82, front and rear. 1980-1994 dl, gl, loyale, xt, rx, gl-10 (yup that would be everything with a 36mm axle nut)

85 and 86 are glued on. 87 and later snap onto holes on the body.

screw the platinums they really wont be any better and will be more prone to foul. you want NGK v power plugs, with the part number "the loyale" has posted. be careful with your coil selection as it could potentially stress the ignition amplifier unit. the bosch platinums of any design are known to foul prematurely if you search around about it. otherwise you can go with the custom make your own 8mm wire kuts and gap your plugs to .045 to run a hotter spark. but if you have problems where your car quits all of a sudden and wont start again after it sits a while youwill want to put in your stock coil. if you do install the aftermarket coil, at least keep the stocker as a spare because there are stories of aftermarket coils causing problems and the stocker hanging out in the trunk saves the day.

looks like he was running with no y pipe with the rolls of dust under the car as if a helicopter were landing.

there is a hydraulioc tensioner fo the belt. the belt itself has 3 marks on it that line upo with corresponding marks on the pulleys. its possible the belt could be a tooth off. there are several marks on the crank itself for te belt alignment. i'm not sure which one off hand to line up to but it will beone of the marks that are more by itself than the other marks. the tensioner is held on with 2 bolts, when you remove the tensioner you squeezeit down in a vise and inser a pin and reinstall it. once the belt is lined up you pull the pun and the tensioner expands agaisnt the belt. you should post in the 'new generaton of subarus' forum since the legacy is considered newer gen according to this forum. sorry i cant help any more but if you search you should find some articles with diagrams on the internet. the guys in the new gen forum could point you in the right direction.

1985 GM small block chevy 350. 54mm

lower idle is normal. average normal idel should be around 700 rpm or so. as far as bad plugs go, i have had motors that would run on 2 cylinders when cold, then 3 then 4 as it warms up. it wouldnt hurt to check out the plugs if you have a rough idle.

the chassis of the brat is based off a wagon. so anythign from the wagon will swap over, including body panels from the front fenders forward.

the turbine on the inside of the water pump has probably gound off to a nub and therefore is not circulating. i have had water pump pulleys fall out(major leakage) or snap clean off. replace it now. if you dont take care of it now the belts will start squalling and you will either overheat due to bad curculation, lose a belt or the pulley, ir the shaft just falls out and there goes all your coolant, plus above problems.

if you accidentally damaged one of the shafts, a replace ment from any 3spd will do, wether it be ea81 or ea82, 2wd or 4wd

i have almost put myself thru the windshield transitioning to an automatic. that or shifting into R or P while moving! and then after being used to column shifts, i grab air or the turn lever when transitioning back to stick.

try this for a repair

i put 98 forester new kyb gr2 struts all the way arond on my 95 legacy. the front sits up pretty good but the rear doesnt seem so much. the car appears to be at normal ride height except for the awesome fender to wheel clearance in the front. BUT i think this has to do with the stock rear springs beign worn or too short, since i really didnt need the spring compressor to install the springs. plus the original rar struts were blown out and rattled. between the car at rest and up on a jack, there is a good 6 inches of travel in the rear. if i replaced the springs the car would look more like the pics posted above, and i'm sure the fronts will come up a little along with. my wheels are 195/60 15

if you are going to modify a newer subaru, and for the sake of reliability, the best ones would be 95-97 era if you find one that is not very worn. the newer ones from there were more prone to head gasket problems, but not too much different driveline wise. aside from the mention about custom lift kits, you can swap on forester springs and struts to a regular legacy or impreza to gain some ground clearance. go browse http://www.dirtyimpreza.com for ideas of what can be done

the headlights themselves ground thru the switch. i would suggest the switch itself is bad, and causing your problem

might i add to junkies post front axles are different than rear axles. all ea82 rear axles are 23 splines, regardless of model turbo 5spds are 25 splines. full time automatics are 25 splines BUT turbo 3spds are 23 splines left or right side does not matter as stated by junkie if your parts counter man seems incompetent, any turbo 5spd will do if the rx is not listed specifically. just make sure the axle in the box is the right one since sometimes they can be listed correctly, but packaged wrong otherwise to default, look up a 89 gl-10, because either the auto or 5spd for that model will be the correct axle

yes, the 4eat with lsd is an rx factory package, for those with no left foot!

the headlights do turn off withthe car the single green wire is hot all the time, connect to that for your memory. the speakers are common ground, so if you have weird fade balance issues, use one negative wire on the front channel and one for the rear, leave the remaining negative wires unconnected.

the fan is designed to run in the acc position, as well as the wipers, too. just turn the car all the way off if you dont want it to run if the fan comes on right away after the car has cooled off (overnite) then the thermo switch may be stuck the thermo switch is located on the bottom corner of the radiator with a blue and yellow wire. ite basically a temp sensor that completes the ground to the fan once it warms up. one wire is hot all the time, the other is ground. the switch completes ground if the fan running annoys you, then you can substitute the thermo switch with a toggle connecting the blue and yellow wires. just dont forget to turn it on when you drive! i always prefer the clutch fan for reliability, you can add one from another car if you like.

yes, this is exactly what i meant. the design my buddy had was more like that on a leaf spring, but this is the idea that i was implying

much more fixable than mine. the rocker is folded in and the rear door striker is smashed on mine. at least that one can be pulled out for the most part.(compared to mine)

i would do a '3rd gear split' or "simulated 6 spd. start off in lo 1,2,3, then stay in 3 and hi, then 4 hi and 5hi. you will get a lot of power band out of 3rd gear by splitting it that way.

based on this notion, it would be an 'awd' with an open diff. but if the diff is open then 100% of the power can go to the front or rear, and with an open front diff, 100% to just one wheel. so tecnically not "all wheel drive" and withthe diff locked its a true 4wd (because it will bind on pavement)

make sure its from a 5 spd becaus e the 2 pc shaft from an AT will be shorter, because an AT is longer. BUT, if you ever have to replace u-joints, just replace the rear half of the shaft as they are the same lenght for either. the carier bearing is mounted to the front piece.