MilesFox

Next time it does this, pull over and see if there are any bubbles rising out of the overflow tank on the radiator. Also, observe where the fluid level is on the tank. If the level rises over time, coolant is being pushed out an air pocket is forming, which is indicative if compression gasses in the cooling.

I would dip my car. I am not concerned about the appearence of it anyway since it is brown with gold trim and looks like a polished turd. Maybe i can change it up, but i can always go back to its 569 crest brown metallic at any given moment. It gets me back and forth to work, though. Dual whip antennae FTW.

It would be safe to remove the CIA as it screws up the air metering. IF you keep it, the only thing you can do to work around it is tune it for low end response, or tune it for high end response. The factory intake has what is called a helmholz resonator, which reverberates and keeps the air flow and metering proper for the MAF, much like how a muffler is tuned for performance flow. Runninf without a MAF is bad ascise and you should smack whoever told you that, especially if he is the one who sold you the CAI Also the MAF does not like cone filters or oiledf ilters. Just so you know, the stock intake system can handle 400 hp before needing any further mods

fwd xt front struts and flip the top hat on the rear strut. if the springs are short, limit the travel of the strut by tying steel cable around them to limit their travel so they don't bounce off the spring.

DL and GL trip isswappable between the same bodies. The DL might not have enough electrical harness to swap in power windows or rear speakers.

whoops, i was thinking backwards as what i sat is relevant to running it as a RWD with a missing front axle. anyway, beside all that point, a part time 4wd can be towed in FWD and removing the driveshaft is not necessary to tow 2 up on this vehicle. It can be flat towed or 2 up from either direction as long as the 4wd is not engaged.

Rev it up a bunch. Give it a spirited drive and change the oil. Consider replacing the oil pump seals with timing belt service.

try replacing the PCV valve.

Yes you can pull the driveshaft. You will have to engage 4wd to operate the car with no driveshaft. But, by design, you can leave the trans in FWD and leave the driveshaft in lace, for which this is totally safe, and the car can drive off and on the dolly in FWD as many times as you want. Pushbutton is a part time 4wd. If this were a full time or awd, then you will want to remove the driveshaft.

Subaru requires dextron 2/3 for ps fluid. Do not use the clear gm stuff as it can ruin the seals. the cap should specify dextron if the label is still present

Feel free to drain it, and then top off. However, don't bother with dropping the pan, since the 'filter' is just a screen, and you risk pan leaks going back together.

the 2.5 intake will not swap onto the 2.2/ however, all of the compoents and the harness will swap onto the intake. But, this is not necessary as the 2.2 intake is a direct plug-on to the engine harness on the car side. the engine management between the 2 are identical, withthe difference win the intake being the shape of the ports where they bolt to the head.

Possibly it could have a dropped valve seat. It would be worth the labot to remove the intake and inspect it. Just in case you have to pull the heads, you are already half way there, and are well versed in timing belts by now. I have seen a dropped valve seat on an ea82, bot only one exmple of the many i had. It was dropped due to the cracks that form between the seats. It should be possible to re-stake the valve seat.

IT can be done. Everything is dimensionally similar, so as long as you have all the donor parts, they are more or less bolt- in you will need along withthe trans to convert: (assumng at ot mt) the trans crossmember and all bolts, the driveshaft, the rear differential (to match trans gear 3.9), flywheel and bolts, clutch assembly, mt starter, and pedal set with cable. The rest is legos. I swapped a 5spd dual range into an ea81 as my first project which was the first engine pull, trans swp, clutch jpb, 4wd car, or turbo car, and built a lift at the same time with no prior experience. Good car to learn on. You have this forum and the internet as resources.

this will be directly bolt-on, except you will need to swapover the single port 2.2 header to replace the dual port from the 2.5. the 2.2's intake harness will plug into the 2.5 body. everything else is technique in regards to working on subarus. the engine is plug and play otherwise.

I meant oil pump.

The wire for it is yellow and comes off the intake harness under th alternator and down the dipstick tube. it has a single spade terminl. you will find it and plug it in. that sender is for a gauge, so it is likely your engine or water pump has been swapped.

classic lifter tick. not a non-sale by any means.

Forget the tranny jack and mount the rear half of the trans to the crossmember. then jack up the diff and install the engine. this will give you more control.

jack up the trans by the rear diff so it is well clear of the crossmember. There is some technique inolved with hanging the motor and getting the angle right. Sometimes itdoes take some wiggle room. Did you change the pilot bearing? You will have to play withthe angle to get the pilot shaft to line up. Let the motor tilt up and give it some wiggle. Also, make sure you don't have any stuck or double dowels on the side of the bellhousing. The dowels can be driven in or out with a drift punch

Although the trans can be made to fit, it will not work against an ea or er engine without extensive bellhousing modifications, where you would have to lose about 10mm between one or the other, and make some flywheel/clutch combinations. However, this would be a good idea when using an ej motor. The trans can fit using xt6/wrx mounts, and the driveshaft will have to be shortened on the front half. The xt6 has a 3.9 rear diff, so anything with a 3.9 final drive will work with that.

ea82 drums are larger than ea81. they will swap either way, but only when swapping backing plate and drums to match

take the starter out and loosen the pressure plate bolts until you get it to go togehter. then tightne them and reinstall the starter.

I would only consider ignition upgrades if you are running some sort of high compression or e85 setup with advanced timing and wide spark gap, along with icam and exhaust mods, otherwise, there is nothing to gain beyond stock components other than reliability issues. But good quality parts is a step up, such ans using NGK bran plugs and wires instead of some autolite or champion, and with the oil, you can consider different weights in full synthetic, such as 5w30, 10w30, 0w30, or straight sae30. The 5w and 0w can gain you fuel economy points, but the 10w will offer better protection at sustained highway speeds. The subaru engine can take anything from these weights, along with 10w40, 20w40, 15w40 and 20w50, depending on the application The &n oil filter is nothing to marvel at, more brandig than engineering. Stick to a good quality WIX or napa gold series, mobil 1, or bosch filter, and for the air filter, stay with a paper filter for hotwire MAF reliability.

That bike rack came from a stash i inherited with a car. It was a dealer option for ea81. Glad to see it in use now, especially for it's purpose with bicycles. All the cool kids with their yakimas just can't get down with this.