MilesFox

my sedan took a hit almost like that on the passenger side, perhaps with more force. lucky for me i was driving, and had no passengers. i could only wonder what injury could have been. hooray for car insurance. and i have a crushed center console too!

yeah you would drop the moustache bar down. but you ned to drop the front down as well so you dont end up with a 90 deg driveshaft angle. this is what i meant about making a 'drop shackle', the kit pictures here shows just that. whay is this so hard to be comprehended?

here is what i know n'a cars are 3.9 turbo cars are 3.7 the xt6 full time had vlsd 3.9 on some of them the rx had lsd from the factory 85 and 86 and maybe some 87 ea82 3at non turbos had 3.7 diffs.

you could be 180 off. take off teh driver side timing belt cover and rothate the crank until the dot on the cam pulley is at 12:00, then rotate the crank till 0 deg pops up, make sure the disty is pointing a #1 (just to the right of the screw on the cap.

i woulnt try the vac actuation fo rth elo rance since clutching is required and there is a lag in actuation withthe vac system. but if you used the vac system for the 4wd, and the lever for hi-lo, then theroretically, with a divorced actuation such as what you want, you can run lo range in FWD as for the rear diff hanger, drill the holes all the way through the trunk and use some long bolts, since the bottom side is only 3 layers of stamped sheetmatal about 1/4 in thick total. the holes will come through exactly along the edge of the trunk inner wheel well plastic line if you keep the fwd rear struts you will have more lift according to a recent post aside from the transmission itself, all the othe related parts(driveshaft/clutch/etc are all the same for any 4wd 5mt

i detest this notion. the spfi has a O shaped shaft for the rotor and the turbo has a D shaped shaft and a taller cap and rotor. O rotor and shorter cap fits on D shaft but not the other way around. you will need the matching cap for the rotors being used otherwise there is no difference between 2wd or 4wd. UNLESS, this only applies to 1987 models or 85-86 spfi (round plug pigtail) #1 cylinder is on the passenger rear of the motor. and notice the orientationof subarujunkies illustration. no one is looking at their motor from inside the car with the hood up or down! (junkie you should flip that picture upside down) rotation is 1-3-2-4, counter clockwise. #1 on the cap is the terminal on the rear to the right of the clip/screw. if you take out the distributor(which you dont need to) refer to the timing belt article in usrm

dont forget that the gears are sharing the same fluid as the front differential. pure atf will kill the front diff, but a temporary drive on it could free things up. i would be more comfortable with gear oil with a touch of atf instead just use regular old gl-5 type oil

all of them the ea82 trannies will fit but the rear mount is a little bit different. you can adapt the rear mount with minor fabbing .other than that they are the same in design, the pump shafts, governors and torque converters are interchangeable between ea81 and ea82, fwd and 4wd 3spd at's if you are replacing the trans due to shifting problems, check the governor as it may be your problem. do some searching for "governor shaft" somewhere there is an article on how to service it.

well if they are hyper extended already, then of course they will pull out all the way with any suspension articulation. if you drop the whole diff (lower it down at the moustache bar so the angle is not so sharp) the axles wont be rifing on the edge of the doj, and youmake the drop shackle for the front half of the diff so you dont have such a sharp angle at the driveshaft. with the AA lift, the rear suspension is riding higher in proportion to original suspension geometry. easy way to gain inches, but the oroginal geometry is compromised(maxed out) droppin ghe whole diff away from the tube frame will correct this. i dont see why AA cant make a drop shackle withthe lift kits.(unless they nover thought to do so) my buddy home-made rear strut extensions and dropped the whole diff, including a drop shackle (like the rear shackles on a leaf spring). in fact, he used a clevis pin instead of a bolt for a "quick disconnect" diff (good for you welded diffs out there)

the link is supposed to go here: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/clutch.htm although i still need to make a write up for it. can i use your pics on this page? i never seem to have a camera any time i have cars apart.

make a drop shackle for the front diff mount. this will krrp ypur u-joint angle true

no cutting at all. but if its going into a 2wd body, the carrier bearing mount is not present, and you will have to fabricate. take a 12 incl ong bar of flat 2 inch wide steel . drill 2 half inch holes 10 inches apart on center. take 2 4 inch pieces of flat inch wide steel and make a hole on the ends. you will notice one tab on the carrier bearing is higher than the other. if you bolt the small pieces of steel to the carrier, then slip the 12 inch steel between, the 4 inch pieces will overlap and underlap the main bar respecitvely. butt up the ends and weld it up. now that its welded up put the driveshaft in and jack it up against the body, center it up, and drill thru the holes in the steel use 1/2 wide bolts and 1 1/2 inch washers at tthe top and a flat washer with a locking washer on the bottom. the bolt holes will end up exactly in the corner of the seat suprt and the trans tunnel.

yeah go ahead and put the rest down the booster hose. the oil change was only necessary for putting sea foam in the oil. run the last of it down the booster tube, and call it a day

bleeding air out of subarus is somewhat tricky, especially having to wait till the right moment the thermostat opens and being there whenit does that. hold the revs up and squeeze the hoses, watch this video:

well since you would already have the can, pop off the hose to the brake booster and stick it in the can pf sea foam. start the car till it sucks about 1/3d of the can into the motor. the car will want to stall so you will have to hold the throttle open. once you sucked in enough sea foam let the car stall out or turn it off and let it sit for about 10 minutes. put another 3rd of the can in the gas tank put the last of it in the oil after 10 or 15 minutes get in the car and drive it around. holy smokescreen batman. that is how to use sea foam

the harnesses should acommodate the ccu somehwere, i am assuming based on my ea82 knowledge. there should be a vac diaphragm oon the pedal assembly to physically actuate the throttle. be sure to grab that too.

add the seafoam and/or mmo just before an oil change, or change the oil afterward anyway. put about 1/4 or so of the can in the oil and change the oil after a few days driving or something like 100 miles. changing the oil is recommended because all the junk that gets loosened up is now floating around. dont worry too much about the oil level. according to the dipstick, you could be a quart either way of the full mark without too much troubles.

well it has been a while since i saw this mythical car. i do remember it being a gl1-10 sedan with digi dash and automatic 4wd, light blue. maybe it was a carb. but i do know there was an mpfi non turbo 85 gl-10 because spfi wasnt available and a carb was not gl-10 worthy. anyway here is that vin page once again http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/rx/vin.htm

me and my buddy had to use a length of subaru exhast pipe and hang from it, as a last resort. see this video!

so i ended up with 2 12oz cans of the stuff. i tried some out on a rusty strut top and on some rust spots(that have been brushed and treated with a hydrochloric compound) on the RX. looks like fun stuff, i wish i had this stuff before i enamel painted my rear suspension. product claims it can be used on aluminum as well. "its elehtrochemical action provides protection that withstands 2000 hours of salt spray testing" contains 95% pure zinc metal http://www.zrcworldwide.com/pdfs/GALVILITE_9_07.pdf

i know for sure the hoses on an ej are larger than an ea82 t hoses. another thing i for sure know is the xt6 radiator hoses are larger tha ea82's as well. what you would find out is if the hose nipples are the same size between the two. of so, then there is a direct fit. but xt6's may be hard to come by.

you would only gain from that if you were to entirely remove the rear axles as far as rolling resistance is concerned and the diff and driveshaft if weight is a concern other wise the #1 thing you can do is inflate the tires to within 10% of max pressure (35 psi max/10% =3.5 [35-3.5= 31.5] essentially 32 psi. go by the rating on the tire instead of the ratings on the door striker

on my sedan i shoved in some coil spring spacers and yes, did the washer trick on the engine crossmember. there is enough threads there to go at least half inch. i didnt have crazy ccamber issue, althoug it was only coil spacers. on the radius rod at the bushing it is possible to get more positive caster on the struts

it does have air suspensions, with all that i bet its a gl-10 turbo traction like mine, but a sedan with a dual range. could have been special order. rare stuff like the mpfi non turbo 84 gl-10 mentioned in another thread.

hell yeah you blokes over there sure know your mix and match. one could have assumed they smelled BS with this topic but i guess not! that is some great info. can you tell us more on the stud conversion kit? and of course, pics!