MilesFox

20 deg is for spfi and 87 and up turbos. carb calls for 8 deg but upping the timing to between 8 and 20 is good for carbs. the timing is so low more for emissions reasons than for the engine parameters

HA! tell me about it. mcdonalds trash on the console wouldn help matters either. almost burnt my sedan to the ground welding it. hence the bracket instead, easy to make!

i believe the hill holder came on 82 and later manual trannies. no there is no electrical connection for this device the brake lights work off the pedal switch. anyone who would run into a stopped car because the brake lights are not on doenst need a drivers license.

my experience with a bas ecu temp sensor is the car would run fine when cold, but once she warmed up the car would run like crap, and if it were stalled it would have to sit for a good half hour before it would start again this part cross references with nissan 240 sx if you cant find a listing for subaru. get the brown top version

sometimes when the ignition amplifier goes bad it will fail when it warms up, let it cool and is ok. the ignition amplifier is the little transister looking piece on the coil bracket itself. try your luck with a junkyard one and see if that helps another problem of stalling or running bas when warm is the coolant temp sensor for the ecu. its located near the turbo on the back of the intake and has a brown clip like that of the injectors. if you cant find a replacement, the part cross references with nissan 240 sx and is the brown one. auto zone may not have it listed for 87 rx or for subaru for that matter but the same part should be in stock for nissan

just to make a point on the contrary, the carrier bearing is not a load carrying bearing, does not take torque load, it just supports the articulation point of the driveshaft one could spend for a single piece driveshaft if they are concerned about carrier bearing failure, on the other hand, a replacement at the junkyard could be had for cheap. the front half contains the bearing. the front half will be specific to the tranny so a replacement would have to come off another 5spd 4wd car, either dual range, single range, or full time 4wd

what motor do you have, turbo, spfi, or carb? there are 3 factory ac setups, is the compressor square or round, and is the alternator inboard or outboard?

is it an automatic? what is the timing set at? maybe you can open the exhaust a little and bump the timing a degree or 2 going with the accel coil will allow you to gap yout plugs out for bigger spark. stock gap is between .040-.045, you could go .050

85 and 86 trimis glued on. later models afe fastened with plastic clips. you can glue them on, ot take them off and clean up the goo and have smooth doors woth no holes, unlike the later models

tire imbalances will be noticed at varying speeds. sometimes you will feel it at 50 mph and it goes away at 60 just to return at 70 mph try rotating the wheels front to back, or swithc the front wheels around and see if the vibration is on the other side. doing this will prove or eliminate a wheel imbalance also mud or snow in the rim will throw the wheel off balance so check inside the rims too

if you put 5spds in an ea81, use the ea82 5spd 2-piece driveshaft as it will be the proper length for that tranny you will have to make a carrier bearing mount, the carrier will mount in the same location on the ea82 body as it does on an ea82. i found this out by making a carrier mmount for 5spd in a 2wd ea81, and the same mount carried over and fit the same in an ea82 2wd to 4wd conversion get a 12" length of flat steel, about 2 in wide. make 2 holes 10" apart on-center to the 12" pice. get another flat piece of steel about 1 in wide, make 2 4" lenghts and drill holes on the last inch of them. bolt the short pieces to the carrier bearing. you will notice the carrier tab on one side is higer than the other, so put ne piece on top of one side and one on the bottom of the other side so they are even. wels this assembly to the 12" piece. these pieces once bolted to the carrier bearing will be 6" apart on-center to the main piece. weld them to the top side as it will be within the tranny tunnel, the outer ends of the main piece will fit flat against the body under the floor, just before the tranny tunnel curves up with the mounts bolted to the carrier, install the driveshaft and butt it against the body of the car, drill through the holes thru the floor and install the bolts! the bolts will come through aright in the corner of the tranny tunnel and the rail perpendicilar to the car under the seats. use a 1 1/2" washer insid ethe car as it will squish down and hold the bolt head still, so you can torque it down this design is very simple and will fit exactly the same on bioth ea81 and ea82 bodies. the first one i made for an ea81 and the same part fit on jims 88 dl wagon i amde another one to the described dimensions and it fit on alleyboy's 2wd touring wagon very simple the first one was eyeballed and the 2nd one was to the dimensions. they both fit the same and these dimensions are easy to make and fit, if you have a welder, a hacksaw, and a drill. the steel you can find at a hardware store for both pieces you shouldnt have more than 15 bucks in metal another note, the ea82 at and 5spd driveshafts are different lenghts. it is the fron thalf from the tranny to the carrier that are different lengths according to each tranny. the carrier between both will be in the same location relative to the car the rear half is the same length between both, so if you ever had a bad u-joint you can replace the rear half from ANY 4wd ea82

maybe the tire is out of balance. you will feel this in the steering wheel. try rotating the tires around front to back and see if this changes anything, and this will prove a wheel imbalance

the recommended fluid for 3at's is dextron/mercon type II or III. same stuff that goes in the power steering i have seen dextron/mercon type IV thay have out nowadays for newer cars, but i dont know if this would work. i would think the newer is backward compatible with type II and III, and may be a better choice. but you would want to get some opinions on that

i vote for pulling the motor. thgere is a way to do it without pulling either, i have done this once: take out the radiator and undo the heater hoses, unbolt the engine from the tranny. raise the tranny by a jack so the motor mounts come away from the crossmember, and use the hoist to suspend the motor and pull it forward, you can get a degree of separation without having to disconnect everything else, separate far enough to get the pressure plate out and you are good to go. its kind of tight i would recommend this procedure for someone experienced in subaur clutches, but if it gets to be a pain just disconnect everything else and pull the motor out since the motor will be out do the rear main seal, and any other seals on the motor if you wish while its out of the car givent the opportunity to use a lift and a tranny jack i would do it from underneath, but his involves draining the gear oil and some may leak out the driveshaft, can be messy a bit

as far as wagons go i would preger an ea82 wagon say over an impreza wagon as far as using it as a wagon goes. the ea82 wagons have a flat floor that is even with the gate opening, the back seats fold down FLAT and you can haul quite a bit in back and load it down till you cant fit anything in ther eno more. i can tell you myself you can hul a pair of motors, a transmiisson, a full set of wheels and a full suspension in the back of a wagon, plut put stuff on the roof! i would suggest a gl model with dual range, as the 4wd machanism is manual and not electro/vacuum operated like single ranges. if fuel injection is what you want look for 86-88 wagons for the dual range

find some brown interior pieces and mix them accordingly with the blue it will make the interior feel richer. nice seats i like the 85-86 style gl-10 seats my car has brown interior, i am using door panels like in your car with brown tops and handle, brown pocket on the door. the brown carries over to select other pieces to tie it all in. blue interior and brown carpet, blue console with brown shifter boot and parking brake lever, brown lower trim under the dashboard

yeah that would work too, whichever would be easiest to fabricate, as long as you keep the theory in mind with your design

yeah once you remove the roll pins you can shoo the PB in the hole where it will get to the splines. whack with a 3 lb hammer, rotate whack rotate whack sounds like you goit it but PB is magical stuff!

assuming your car is already a single range 5spd, the tranny is a straight bolt on, the same flywheel,clutch parts, driveshaft will work on the new tranny, you will want the shifter console plate to go with. if your car is non turbo then everything else will stay as it is, axles and diff, but if you are going from a turbo single range then you will have to swap the front axles and rear diff

refer to this post, there is an example of a dual exhaust there as well, demonstrating an x-over as skip mentions, and some exhaust theory http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=30262&highlight=dual+exhaust

oh yeah the haynes book refers to the right side of the vehicle as if you were in the car facing forward. so passenger side is the right side of the car the haynes book can be tricky to follow as it is translated from british terms i do believe. make sure you read all the text thoroughly. poeple will argue the haynes book is no good but i find it very useful, and a lot of the diagrams are out of the FSM

turn the disty to the right to advance it

sounds very good. way to go!

ok i say saturday, u pick the time, since you will be finding the off road. i can be ther on friday to start out. lets keep sunday as a back up day if we cant all make it beforehand friday night

the ea81 mpfi should be compatible electrically with 85-86 ea82 mpfi components, the maf, disty, knock control, ecu. just so long as you get the wiring inb between. its speculated to be plug-and-play between ea81 mpfi and 85-86 ea82 mpfi